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Ok I got the haedlight swith **** off the bezel is off.I got the 9/32 screws out. I tilted the steering wheel all the way down. I took the tilt lever out. I even looseed the screws that hold the dash a the top so I could push it up some.
I can get the digital dask out pretty far on the left end, but not the right side. I think the connectors on the right edge or hitting against the center plastic surround part.
So what am I missing?
Last edited by ToniJ1960; Nov 18, 2013 at 04:39 PM.
Well I got it finally Im not sure what finally gave it moved enough to where I could get my hand on the connectors. I knew I had it then. But I wish I could remember how it came out how it sat just before it let go something I know when I go to put it back in Im going to wish I could remember.
I found that I had to take out the one Phillips screw that goes in sideways on the driver's side of the center bezel at the top. Otherwise the top tab blocked me from getting the cluster out.
I suggest putting 2" wide masking tape on the top of the steering column and on the "shelf" on the left side to avoid scratching it.
Well I got it back in now to lights on the right side are out they were all fine. Are all the bulbs on the same line or are two on one side on one and two on the other side a different connection?
I dont know if its the bubs for sure or I got a bad connection on the connectors?
What all did you take apart? There are some areas you need to address.. Main one is resoldering the ground, on the main connector between the 2 circuit boards. Lights should be about the easiest to fix. Go to http://www.batee.com/ for the parts, and how to's. Also if you email Brian, he has the answers to most of your Q's. h
Thanks just hate to complicate things. Do I really need to mail order bulbs and do I need different bulb bases if I convert to xenon bulbs or not? I was hoping I could just buy some bulbs and put them in. It does sound like a good idea to go with bulbs that arent so hot though. Just rather get them locally and use the same bulb bases if I can.
They dont give a bulb type number. I also see led kits on bay. Would they dim right?
Lol, I looked for them for a while, and said screw it, and ordered the kit. The big bulbs came with new sockets, and the little ones just slid in. Try not to touch the bulb when you replace it. The oil from your hands will cause the bulb to fail prematurely. Dont know about the LEDs or the zenon part # h
Last edited by hemivett; Nov 19, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
I really just need to know what type are the bulbs
The earlier cars used #882 bulbs. Those are halogen and have two pins. The 882 part number includes the socket.
In 1989 they went to xenon bulbs. The number is #7073, but there are other numbers that work. These bulbs have a wedge base and require a different socket if you switch. The 7073 bulbs don't come with a socket.
I don't think LEDs would work well in the cluster. The light output is more like a flashlight beam rather than the all-directional light output from an incandescent bulb. The LEDs require a current limiting resistor either externally or inside the LED "bulb". LEDs are also polarized and must be inserted with the correct polarity or they won't light. Some LED "bulbs" have current steering diodes inside them that allow them to be inserted either way.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Nov 20, 2013 at 04:35 AM.
The earlier cars used #882 bulbs. Those are halogen and have two pins. The 882 part number includes the socket.
In 1989 they went to xenon bulbs. The number is #7073, but there are other numbers that work. These bulbs have a wedge base and require a different socket if you switch. The 7073 bulbs don't come with a socket.
I don't think LEDs would work well in the cluster. The light output is more like a flashlight beam rather than the all-directional light output from an incandescent bulb. The LEDs require a current limiting resistor either externally or inside the LED "bulb". LEDs are also polarized and must be inserted with the correct polarity or they won't light. Some LED "bulbs" have current steering diodes inside them that allow them to be inserted either way.
Cragen has them, I replaced the ones on my 88, still had to send it in to be referbed, 174 labor, it works perfect now.
The bulbs get pretty hot. My PC board is darkened around the holes where the bulbs mount. The white sockets have turned brown. Still seems OK after 28 years.
They will make less heat when dimmed, but you can only control the dimming at night when the headlights are on. They already operate in a dimmer mode at night. You need the brightest back lighting during the day when the ambient light is bright. The headlight switch dimmer basically does nothing during the day.
Dash has 4 metal plugs on the front that can be pried out. Mine has 882 Bi-pin bulbs which can be grabbed and removed from the front and replaced the same way using hemostats (spelling?).
Watch if you talk to a auto parts store, the only ones the right size my local O'Reilly found were 891 Bi-Pins. Those are hotter and for the 3d stoplight in back.
If you order bi-pins online from Corvette Central or Ecklers (can't remember which one I ordered from) they have 881 printed on the bulbs and those were around $15 a bulb.
I did find some LED's on EBay that are supposed to be plug-and-play and they are bi-pins and are supposed to be 100% direct replacements and no other changes required to use them. This will be a winter project and they are bi-pins. We'll see if they work as claimed or not.
Thanks everyone now I wonder, they say these original bulbs make too much heat and can damage things. Do they make less heat when theyre dimmed?
they do get hot, it could contribute to the LCD failure, but they last for about 20 years, the bulbs are a standard item at the outo parts stores, here is a picture of mine taken apart, I was fresening the solder connections in hope of that being the problem with mine, I still had to send it in to be referbed $174, some place in Florida 813-526-6795, it is like new.you can see the four holes, when you take them out pay attension to how they come out, I used needle nose plyers to get the new ones back in place gently.
Last edited by gemsvette; Nov 21, 2013 at 01:53 PM.
Dash has 4 metal plugs on the front that can be pried out. Mine has 882 Bi-pin bulbs which can be grabbed and removed from the front and replaced the same way using hemostats (spelling?).
Watch if you talk to a auto parts store, the only ones the right size my local O'Reilly found were 891 Bi-Pins. Those are hotter and for the 3d stoplight in back.
If you order bi-pins online from Corvette Central or Ecklers (can't remember which one I ordered from) they have 881 printed on the bulbs and those were around $15 a bulb.
I did find some LED's on EBay that are supposed to be plug-and-play and they are bi-pins and are supposed to be 100% direct replacements and no other changes required to use them. This will be a winter project and they are bi-pins. We'll see if they work as claimed or not.
I was dumb enough to try the led bulbs and they suck. If they pointed to the sides they would be good, but since they point straight out they just don't put enough light into the display. I ended up getting different bases to use the more common bulbs instead of the 882's. Not quite as bright, but I have no problems reading my display in bright sunlight. I first tried the high mount stop lamp bulbs, and they were really bright, but I could smell that they were too hot, so I pulled them before very long.
Last edited by nobodycls; Dec 15, 2013 at 01:44 AM.