Ball joints and lowering question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
Ball joints and lowering question
Hey guys, 87 coupe stock front suspension.
I am finally getting around to lowering my car and have a few questions.
1) My ball joints are nice and tight but the boots are ripped. Can I replace the boot or do I have to replace the whole ball joint? Should I just replace it anyway since the car is apart? What's the best brand to buy if that is the route to go?
2) When cutting the rubber off the spring just sitting here looking at it it appears that the bracket that goes under the spring will be too big and not tighten down the spring properly. Am I looking at this right? It's a stamped bracket so what's the fix here?
Thanks for any advice you can offer. I took the spring out today so I'll cut the rubber tonight after dinner and wait for your advice.
I am finally getting around to lowering my car and have a few questions.
1) My ball joints are nice and tight but the boots are ripped. Can I replace the boot or do I have to replace the whole ball joint? Should I just replace it anyway since the car is apart? What's the best brand to buy if that is the route to go?
2) When cutting the rubber off the spring just sitting here looking at it it appears that the bracket that goes under the spring will be too big and not tighten down the spring properly. Am I looking at this right? It's a stamped bracket so what's the fix here?
Thanks for any advice you can offer. I took the spring out today so I'll cut the rubber tonight after dinner and wait for your advice.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
Hey guys, 87 coupe stock front suspension.
I am finally getting around to lowering my car and have a few questions.
1) My ball joints are nice and tight but the boots are ripped. Can I replace the boot or do I have to replace the whole ball joint? Should I just replace it anyway since the car is apart? What's the best brand to buy if that is the route to go?
2) When cutting the rubber off the spring just sitting here looking at it it appears that the bracket that goes under the spring will be too big and not tighten down the spring properly. Am I looking at this right? It's a stamped bracket so what's the fix here?
Thanks for any advice you can offer. I took the spring out today so I'll cut the rubber tonight after dinner and wait for your advice.
I am finally getting around to lowering my car and have a few questions.
1) My ball joints are nice and tight but the boots are ripped. Can I replace the boot or do I have to replace the whole ball joint? Should I just replace it anyway since the car is apart? What's the best brand to buy if that is the route to go?
2) When cutting the rubber off the spring just sitting here looking at it it appears that the bracket that goes under the spring will be too big and not tighten down the spring properly. Am I looking at this right? It's a stamped bracket so what's the fix here?
Thanks for any advice you can offer. I took the spring out today so I'll cut the rubber tonight after dinner and wait for your advice.
*** Energy does list an application specific boot kit. I've never had one in my hand. # 9.13127
2. The early ones (yours) I believe need to be sectioned and welded. Here's an old post with a "side by side". The later 88+ it's way easier.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580984356-post1.html
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 30, 2013 at 05:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
1. I'd be inclined to do ball joints. Brand? Hard to suggest brand.
*** Energy does list an application specific boot kit. I've never had one in my hand. # 9.13127
2. The early ones (yours) I believe need to be sectioned and welded. Here's an old post with a "side by side". The later 88+ it's way easier.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580984356-post1.html
*** Energy does list an application specific boot kit. I've never had one in my hand. # 9.13127
2. The early ones (yours) I believe need to be sectioned and welded. Here's an old post with a "side by side". The later 88+ it's way easier.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580984356-post1.html
On the bracket, I would think just section the bracket the same amount as the rubber cut off? Seems logical. Do I want to cut both sides of the rubber or just the top?
Cumbercr, That's why I own a welder, what fun is buying something
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
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OP - I've never seen it mentioned to do anything to the lower aspect of the mount. That remains "as is"!!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 30, 2013 at 07:45 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
I believe those are supposed to be used "ONLY" when the HYPERCO front springs are used in the earlier cars. I don't see where it's mentioned that they're a service replacement for the original. I could be wrong - I'd appreciate a "show me" a part # and a note that says they're an accepted replacement for OE. It's a $70 expense even if it's a working replacement and then it requires modification also.
OP - I've never seen it mentioned to do anything to the lower aspect of the mount. That remains "as is"!!
OP - I've never seen it mentioned to do anything to the lower aspect of the mount. That remains "as is"!!
DO NOT cut the rubber on the bottom. If you trim the rubber on the top flush with the spring and install poly wedges, the drop will be about 3/4"-1"
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
Have fixed up 2 c4s so far and each time I used Moog for ball joints and tie rods and timken for bearings. I have not had any problems and they all fit perfect. I would do it all while you have it apart. Its not that expensive or hard to do. good luck with it
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,315
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Don't know when the change over was, but my 86 was not solid rubber, inside was a 2 piece pivot.
I bisected the clamp sides and mig welded back together.
I have ES boots on ball joints and tie rod ends, fit and look good.
Keep the finger cool, by continually placing a cold beer in that hand.
I bisected the clamp sides and mig welded back together.
I have ES boots on ball joints and tie rod ends, fit and look good.
Keep the finger cool, by continually placing a cold beer in that hand.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
I went with Moog. They are installed and ready to go. I cut the rubbers on the spring and have cut and rewelded one of the clamps. Need to do the other, ran out of time. Has anyone cut the rubber on the end of the spring? I'm in need of more than an inch of lowering, when I put the LS in there it took so much weight off the car it's like a 4x4. I'm thinking coilovers. Don't know what I want to do here
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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I went with Moog. They are installed and ready to go. I cut the rubbers on the spring and have cut and rewelded one of the clamps. Need to do the other, ran out of time. Has anyone cut the rubber on the end of the spring? I'm in need of more than an inch of lowering, when I put the LS in there it took so much weight off the car it's like a 4x4. I'm thinking coilovers. Don't know what I want to do here
Have you ever had the car "scaled" since the drive-train change? It's a shame if you haven't since it's not drivable now. Do you have a relatively good idea how much lighter the engine/trans package actually is? You would need a springe package to start with and then likely a purchase of a second set to finish the job. There might/should be many sets of used that you could buy for the initial attempt and likely the same when you determined what weight you wanted.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Dec 7, 2013 at 11:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
If you decided to do coil-overs it's a rather mammoth undertaking on an '87 or earlier car. The shock towers aren't usually considered stout enough for the task. You "do have" a welder so it's maybe not that great an effort for you. "LD85" did an early install and it was well documented with snapshots from start to finish. His work was first-class and he "short-cut" nothing. You might contact him.
Have you ever had the car "scaled" since the drive-train change? It's a shame if you haven't since it's not drivable now. Do you have a relatively good idea how much lighter the engine/trans package actually is? You would need a springe package to start with and then likely a purchase of a second set to finish the job. There might/should be many sets of used that you could buy for the initial attempt and likely the same when you determined what weight you wanted.
Have you ever had the car "scaled" since the drive-train change? It's a shame if you haven't since it's not drivable now. Do you have a relatively good idea how much lighter the engine/trans package actually is? You would need a springe package to start with and then likely a purchase of a second set to finish the job. There might/should be many sets of used that you could buy for the initial attempt and likely the same when you determined what weight you wanted.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
I went with Moog. They are installed and ready to go. I cut the rubbers on the spring and have cut and rewelded one of the clamps. Need to do the other, ran out of time. Has anyone cut the rubber on the end of the spring? I'm in need of more than an inch of lowering, when I put the LS in there it took so much weight off the car it's like a 4x4. I'm thinking coilovers. Don't know what I want to do here
Mike
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
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I have never compared the FSM to see if there are different trim heights mentioned for the different model years. I believe the same spring stamping code was used but the published spring code in parts information was changed to reflect which style end is configured in the build.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by WVZR-1; Dec 12, 2013 at 04:02 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
What isn't mentioned is judging from your "profile" yours is likely a newer C4/1995 and the ends of the front spring changed I believe in '93. The OP is dealing with an early C4 and doesn't have the "square cushion" that's an inch or so tall to deal with. I have fronts with the same spring code removed from a '91 and a '93 and there's a square cushion on the '93 and a conventional pad on the '91.
I have never compared the FSM to see if there are different trim heights mentioned for the different model years. I believe the same spring stamping code was used but the published spring code in parts information was changed to reflect which style end is configured in the build.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I have never compared the FSM to see if there are different trim heights mentioned for the different model years. I believe the same spring stamping code was used but the published spring code in parts information was changed to reflect which style end is configured in the build.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Interesting, looking at that would lead me to believe that large pad isn't as necessary as Chevy once thought it would be. Do you know if the spring pocket on the newer cars is the same?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Use eBay and search for the lower control arms then use the ZOOM function to compare anything that you want. That's one of the more interesting and functional services of an eBay shopping spree, you can compare most anything that you like using the ZOOM! I have never compared - I have some later control arms but no early. In principal they're very similar.
Team Owner
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If it's together and drivable I'd take it for a "shakedown" before doing anything else. Find yourself some of the "rumble-strips" along the roadside on Interstate or major divided highways and run both sides on the rumble-strips at speed. It will "shakedown' all of the pivot points, spring pad seats and then you can go back and check the torque values and the trim heights again. Check your trim heights from underneath at FSM designated points and not using the hood-edge at the wheelhouse.