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If the VSS signal is not getting to the ECM it will set error code 24. The SES light will come on after driving about a mile.
If the EGR system is not working correctly you will get error code 32. That one is more subtle and requires cruising at constant speed for about 5 minutes.
I recommend a minimum idle adjustment (haven't seen that mentioned in this thread) -- it cured my stalling problem:
Which is a typical symptom of the ecm not seeing a vss signal, but you've discarded my advice to check to see if the ecm is seeing a signal and chosen drama.
no drama !! how do i check to see if the ecm is seeing a signal ?
If the VSS signal is not getting to the ECM it will set error code 24. The SES light will come on after driving about a mile.
If the EGR system is not working correctly you will get error code 32. That one is more subtle and requires cruising at constant speed for about 5 minutes.
I recommend a minimum idle adjustment (haven't seen that mentioned in this thread) -- it cured my stalling problem:
For the sake of a quick test, Id test my coil. Maybe there is a 'heat soak' issue with the coil. Has your car died just after startup (within 5-10) or is more during prolonged use? I've also experianced fuel issues where at low pressure the fuel filter would clog but as on pedal itll be fine.
If the VSS signal is not getting to the ECM it will set error code 24. The SES light will come on after driving about a mile.
If the EGR system is not working correctly you will get error code 32. That one is more subtle and requires cruising at constant speed for about 5 minutes.
I recommend a minimum idle adjustment (haven't seen that mentioned in this thread) -- it cured my stalling problem:
Idle speed is called for in the programming, and the ecm is constantly trying to adjust for said programmed idle speed. Only a mis-adjusted throttleblade, or a device not reporting properly can change what is called for. A fully warmed automatic car in gear is close to 600, and a manual is 700. Open the throttleblade too far, and it will rise as it leans the mixture with too much air, and of course the opposite.
I generally don't approve of the minimum idle air procedure, because after it is done, 15 minutes later it can change. I prefer small changes will observing IAC counts, and tune to counts of 20 to 80 with 40 to 60 being best. The TPS will have to be adjusted on mass air cars after setting throttleblade.
Of course only an owner will have time, and desire to get it right using this method. A shop will use the procedure, and owner is stuck with result.
Last edited by MrWillys; Nov 20, 2013 at 03:04 PM.
If the VSS signal is not getting to the ECM it will set error code 24. The SES light will come on after driving about a mile.
If the EGR system is not working correctly you will get error code 32. That one is more subtle and requires cruising at constant speed for about 5 minutes.
I recommend a minimum idle adjustment (haven't seen that mentioned in this thread) -- it cured my stalling problem:
I followed instructions to set minimum idle adjustment. When I got to the part of starting the car, it went to 1500 RPM. Being the coward that I am, I was afraid to mess with it because there was such a difference. When I shut the car off and reconnected the IAC, and restarted the car, it went to 700 RPM in park, 600 in drive.
Did set the voltage on TPS. It was at .36 and I put it at .54. It idled very smoothly and ran for quite a long time with NO stalling. Will not know for sure until I get out and drive it.
Thanks for y'all's patience and the very clear directions.
Idle speed is called for in the programming, and the ecm is constantly trying to adjust for said programmed idle speed. Only a mis-adjusted throttleblade, or a device not reporting properly can change what is called for. A fully warmed automatic car in gear is close to 600, and a manual is 700. Open the throttleblade too far, and it will rise as it leans the mixture with too much air, and of course the opposite.
I generally don't approve of the minimum idle air procedure, because after it is done, 15 minutes later it can change. I prefer small changes will observing IAC counts, and tune to counts of 20 to 80 with 40 to 60 being best. The TPS will have to be adjusted on mass air cars after setting throttleblade.
Of course only an owner will have time, and desire to get it right using this method. A shop will use the procedure, and owner is stuck with result.
I agree completely with this method of setting the idle but I have always thought the counts should be down around 20, not as high as you state. Would you explain?
I agree completely with this method of setting the idle but I have always thought the counts should be down around 20, not as high as you state. Would you explain?
I have seen people recommend 20. In my personal opinion that is too low. It doesn't leave much room for the ECM to reduce the air coming in. After it gets down to zero it can't go any lower.
I prefer around 50 steps at idle myself.
The ECM has a tolerance on the idle. If it gets within 50 RPM (75 RPM in certain conditions) of the target RPM it stops adjusting.
One thing I have never seen (but would like to) is the relationship between IAC steps and RPM. How many steps does it take to change the RPM by 100, for example?
This reply may prompt snickers and even guffaws. Oh well, ain't the first time. I had this happen several years ago with an old VW Beetle. I had put in a new engine and rebuilt practically every inch of the car. Then the engine started conking out. Took it to mechanics more times than I can count and just when we thought we had the problem solved, it would conk out again. New fuel pump, filter, fuel lines, on and on----I was getting ready to push the car off a cliff. Finally, a mechanic decided to pull the fuel tank. Sure enough, he found a leaf that had somehow gotten into the tank. Probably when I was pumping gas on an autumn day, who knows. The engine would run fine until the fuel level got a little low and then the leaf would clog up the works. That was it. The old thing ran fine after that. Probably a silly notion, but it was the first thing I thought of when I read your post. Good luck---I feel your pain.
Which is a typical symptom of the ecm not seeing a vss signal, but you've discarded my advice to check to see if the ecm is seeing a signal and chosen drama.
******, he didnt discard, just said it was beyond his skill set. Explain further maybe that will help him. What do you use to tell if ECM sees the VSS?
My experience is electronics malfunctions throw codes but fuel issues do not.
******, he didnt discard, just said it was beyond his skill set. Explain further maybe that will help him. What do you use to tell if ECM sees the VSS?
My experience is electronics malfunctions throw codes but fuel issues do not.
I haven't had a chance to drive it since following Cliff Harris' instructions. I have left it idling in the garage and it has not stalled. Put fuel pressure gauge on and when I turn the ignition to on position, it goes to 40 pounds of pressure, then drops to 20 pounds instantly. Hard to start, but once it starts it goes to 39 pounds of pressure. Once I turn the engine off, it goes down to 20 pounds of pressure and bleeds off in a matter of a minute or so, I assume I have an internal leak somewhere. I think it is injectors.