Okay I Wouldn't Worry About The Water In The Exhaust. just to Clarify, You Did Say You Set Your Timing To Specs, Right?

 

it's a 383 with a mild cam, 10.2 compression ratio, SRP forged pistons with 14cc dish. I set the timing to 8 degrees advanced. It wants more timing, but it detonates on today's gasoline if I set it any higher.
Book specs are now only for reference.

it has forged crank, forged rods, BBK throttle body, ZZ4 cam, true dual exhaust, dual bullet cats.

This is the engine I lucked into. It was in a burned out car in the wrecking yard . I was there when they towed it in. I got the guy to give it to me for $300, and when I tore it apart, everything inside was brand new. I don't think the engine had even 50 miles on it.

I was going to upgrade to better heads, but I lost my job, so I got a better set of factory aluminum heads to get me by.
they had the valves ground, new guides and new seals, roller rockers all for $500. New heads would have been over $1200.
It has run this way for 3 years now, and about 29,000 miles. I could smoke the tires for a city block until it died on the freeway.

I have a new job, but it doesn't pay as well. Things may be looking up in a couple months though.
If it all happens like I plan, I will have a new set of heads before too long.

Back to the car, it has to do with something I changed, either the pump or the injectors for the exhaust to be that smelly. The engine has run perfectly up until the coil flaked out on it. The pertronix coil I believe supplied a humungous improvement in spark over the original unit. Maybe I will put it in a box and send it back to them with a note:

"When is a stock coil better than a Pertronix coil? When the wires don't break off on the freeway"

maybe they might shell out for a replacement.

With new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pump, different distributor, coil, it has to be something in engine management, like the chip in the computer, or bad ground, or SOMETHING simple. No codes makes it something that is not monitored by the computer, like compression, vacuum leaks, ignition, fuel pressure, restricted exhaust, evap problems, restricted intake, . I don't know, maybe I melted one of the cats? I still have the same pressure coming out of the pipes, but I had a crossover pipe installed so it would be hard to tell......

 

Ok, I went to short A&B on the ALDL, with the engine at 160, to watch the SES light flash, and the computer was stuck in open loop. It should have gone to closed loop and running off the sensors.
Swapped in another computer that I had with a different chip, and it went into closed loop and up to 232 and the fan came on like normal with no A/C on.
Now it is hunting at idle and running ragged.
Swapped in a hypertech chip that I have, and runs a little different, but still hunting and ragged.
pulled the plug on the esc while running and the hunting stopped, just running ragged. plugged it back iin and the idle increased, leveled out, then hunting again
Afraid of the engine quitting, so did not drive it. added 2.5 gallons of gas.
no change. Now I am thinking of going back to the original fuel pump. can't really rely on the fuel pressure gauge. I put it on my Tahoe, and it zinged up to 70 PSI. put it back on the corvette, and it read 43 PSI. Maybe I had the pin off center or something. worked great when I put it back on the corvette.
maybe the start injector is no good and leaking. I have a chip for a 89 corvette A4, so I might see if that helps the start injector possible problem since in 89, they did away with the start injector all together. I have another start injector I can try also.
running out of ideas.

 

Going to change the O2 sensor since it was stuck in open loop.

 

Pull Up A Scanner And note Your Temperature From The Scanner When The Engine is Hot.