Car keeps burning oil!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
have seen plenty is damping and valve srpings break in these things I do not know if it is age or they have been ran to hard. I think a combo of all. I do know this not real ssure on the history of mine except it was flawliss inside and out everthing on the car seemed well maintained. but after having the car for 2 yrs and putting about 800 miles on it with out any issue. It was ideling and all the sudden it started missing and backfireing sure enoigh broken valve spring #2 cyc, checked a couple more and they had some hair line cracks
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Wow, 20 miles? Could anyone behind you see where they where going?LOL. I have driven cars that looked like I was fogging for mosquitoes, and was not losing that much that fast. The whole bottom end of my 84 is leaking everywhere possible, and I add a quart about every 200 miles or so. (I keep putting off new gaskets till I sort out some electrical issues)
Last edited by nobodycls; Dec 19, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
You need to check the electrode and the ceramic on the spark plugs. Just because the valve cover gasket leaked...it would only get oil on the OUTSIDE of the plug. Pull the plug and look at the electrode and ceramic (part of the plug that is in the cylinder) for oil fouling.
If you are still smelling oil burning after you have run the car for some distance....your getting an external leak! You might not see any oil on the floor of your garage, because it is dripping onto the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe and burning.
If your breaking springs, you need to call the cam shaft manufacturer and ask them what springs they would recommend. You should not be breaking springs.You can change out the springs without pulling the heads. Use the rope method or compressed air in the cylinder.
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift.
If you are still smelling oil burning after you have run the car for some distance....your getting an external leak! You might not see any oil on the floor of your garage, because it is dripping onto the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe and burning.
If your breaking springs, you need to call the cam shaft manufacturer and ask them what springs they would recommend. You should not be breaking springs.You can change out the springs without pulling the heads. Use the rope method or compressed air in the cylinder.
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Dec 19, 2013 at 11:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
You need to check the electrode and the ceramic on the spark plugs. Just because the valve cover gasket leaked...it would only get oil on the OUTSIDE of the plug. Pull the plug and look at the electrode and ceramic (part of the plug that is in the cylinder) for oil fouling.
If you are still smelling oil burning after you have run the car for some distance....your getting an external leak! You might not see any oil on the floor of your garage, because it is dripping onto the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe and burning.
If your breaking springs, you need to call the cam shaft manufacturer and ask them what springs they would recommend. You should not be breaking springs.You can change out the springs without pulling the heads. Use the rope method or compressed air in the cylinder.
If you are still smelling oil burning after you have run the car for some distance....your getting an external leak! You might not see any oil on the floor of your garage, because it is dripping onto the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe and burning.
If your breaking springs, you need to call the cam shaft manufacturer and ask them what springs they would recommend. You should not be breaking springs.You can change out the springs without pulling the heads. Use the rope method or compressed air in the cylinder.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
sorry...revised prior post
added this on the above....
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift. Is it possible that your getting binding on the springs at this lift? I don't know the specifics, but you might have needed to have the heads machined for the springs so they didn't bind.
You might want to reconsider your move to 195 AFR heads. AFR makes a fantastic head. The 195's might be too large for your build. Have you discussed your build with any of the machine shops in your area?
On my ZZ4 with the Lingenfelter 74211 cam with 1.6 roller rockers I was lifting the valves over .538.
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift. Is it possible that your getting binding on the springs at this lift? I don't know the specifics, but you might have needed to have the heads machined for the springs so they didn't bind.
You might want to reconsider your move to 195 AFR heads. AFR makes a fantastic head. The 195's might be too large for your build. Have you discussed your build with any of the machine shops in your area?
On my ZZ4 with the Lingenfelter 74211 cam with 1.6 roller rockers I was lifting the valves over .538.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Dec 20, 2013 at 12:04 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
added this on the above....
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift. Is it possible that your getting binding on the springs at this lift? I don't know the specifics, but you might have needed to have the heads machined for the springs so they didn't bind.
You might want to reconsider your move to 195 AFR heads. AFR makes a fantastic head. The 195's might be too large for your build. Have you discussed your build with any of the machine shops in your area?
On my ZZ4 with the Lingenfelter 74211 cam with 1.6 roller rockers I was lifting the valves over .538.
You say the heads have 105,000 miles and your car is an 85 with stock cast iron heads???? Did you install the cam without doing anything to the heads other than replacing the valve seals and new springs? The rocker arm studs on these heads are only pressed in. If you didn't have the heads converted to screw in studs....your going to have more problems down the road due to the higher lift. Is it possible that your getting binding on the springs at this lift? I don't know the specifics, but you might have needed to have the heads machined for the springs so they didn't bind.
You might want to reconsider your move to 195 AFR heads. AFR makes a fantastic head. The 195's might be too large for your build. Have you discussed your build with any of the machine shops in your area?
On my ZZ4 with the Lingenfelter 74211 cam with 1.6 roller rockers I was lifting the valves over .538.
As for the first question, all I did to the top end was new lifters, push rods, valve springs, and valve seals. We checked the movement of the valve springs and they did not bind.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Ok you checked for coil bind what about retainer to guide clearance? Did they tell you to drop them rightin, shim/use a different keeper or? Installed height/seat and open pressure are important to control the valve..and spring.
If youre breaking springs something isnt set up right.
Patch er up and drive it til you get heads
If youre getting a fair amount of positive pressure through the valve cover with new seals the bottom end may be a little tired. Guides possibly but GM guides from what Ive seen last a long friggin time
Guys talk about 100k just getting broken in thats absolute BS. 100k is 100k. Lean on it long enough it will pop;certainly not ready for the junkyard but not ready to pull 11s either lol
A healthy motor wont be blowing smoke out the breather hole.
Might get lucky and find your intake gasket got pinched and youre sucking some oil in that way and burning it. Not a big deal.
You can go through the bottom end wihtout killing it $$$ if you shop smart...find a donor block and do it little by little as you can afford it. May take awhile but I bet you wind up with a longer stroke and something fresh you wont be afraid to hammer on.
one thing at a time be patient.
If youre breaking springs something isnt set up right.
Patch er up and drive it til you get heads
If youre getting a fair amount of positive pressure through the valve cover with new seals the bottom end may be a little tired. Guides possibly but GM guides from what Ive seen last a long friggin time
Guys talk about 100k just getting broken in thats absolute BS. 100k is 100k. Lean on it long enough it will pop;certainly not ready for the junkyard but not ready to pull 11s either lol
A healthy motor wont be blowing smoke out the breather hole.
Might get lucky and find your intake gasket got pinched and youre sucking some oil in that way and burning it. Not a big deal.
You can go through the bottom end wihtout killing it $$$ if you shop smart...find a donor block and do it little by little as you can afford it. May take awhile but I bet you wind up with a longer stroke and something fresh you wont be afraid to hammer on.
one thing at a time be patient.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
Ok you checked for coil bind what about retainer to guide clearance? Did they tell you to drop them rightin, shim/use a different keeper or? Installed height/seat and open pressure are important to control the valve..and spring.
If youre breaking springs something isnt set up right.
Patch er up and drive it til you get heads
If youre getting a fair amount of positive pressure through the valve cover with new seals the bottom end may be a little tired. Guides possibly but GM guides from what Ive seen last a long friggin time
Guys talk about 100k just getting broken in thats absolute BS. 100k is 100k. Lean on it long enough it will pop;certainly not ready for the junkyard but not ready to pull 11s either lol
A healthy motor wont be blowing smoke out the breather hole.
Might get lucky and find your intake gasket got pinched and youre sucking some oil in that way and burning it. Not a big deal.
You can go through the bottom end wihtout killing it $$$ if you shop smart...find a donor block and do it little by little as you can afford it. May take awhile but I bet you wind up with a longer stroke and something fresh you wont be afraid to hammer on.
one thing at a time be patient.
If youre breaking springs something isnt set up right.
Patch er up and drive it til you get heads
If youre getting a fair amount of positive pressure through the valve cover with new seals the bottom end may be a little tired. Guides possibly but GM guides from what Ive seen last a long friggin time
Guys talk about 100k just getting broken in thats absolute BS. 100k is 100k. Lean on it long enough it will pop;certainly not ready for the junkyard but not ready to pull 11s either lol
A healthy motor wont be blowing smoke out the breather hole.
Might get lucky and find your intake gasket got pinched and youre sucking some oil in that way and burning it. Not a big deal.
You can go through the bottom end wihtout killing it $$$ if you shop smart...find a donor block and do it little by little as you can afford it. May take awhile but I bet you wind up with a longer stroke and something fresh you wont be afraid to hammer on.
one thing at a time be patient.
And as for the pressure, I was only able to feel it with my nose, I couldn't feel it with my hands. And it had no color.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
First off if you had done some search on the Forum you would have discovered that the stock 85 cast iron heads suck. Enough about that.
You have listed all the modifications.....did you have a new chip made for this combination?
I ran stock heads until 141,000 miles on my 85. Then put on AFR 180's with 1.5 and 1.6 RR on the stock cam. SuperRam intake, runners and plenum. Changed the front "Y" to 2-1/2" still keeping the stock exhaust manifold which you know is very restrictive where all four pipe meet. Replace the cat with a straight pipe and used stock looking mufflers with both exhaust tips working. And March under drive pulleys. Automatic with 3.07 gears. This combination was running 13.6 at the 1/4 mile day and and day out. Ran with with combination with the stock bottom end until I blew a head gasket at 223,000 miles and then built the ZZ4.
My guess is that you still have a intake gasket problem.
You have listed all the modifications.....did you have a new chip made for this combination?
I ran stock heads until 141,000 miles on my 85. Then put on AFR 180's with 1.5 and 1.6 RR on the stock cam. SuperRam intake, runners and plenum. Changed the front "Y" to 2-1/2" still keeping the stock exhaust manifold which you know is very restrictive where all four pipe meet. Replace the cat with a straight pipe and used stock looking mufflers with both exhaust tips working. And March under drive pulleys. Automatic with 3.07 gears. This combination was running 13.6 at the 1/4 mile day and and day out. Ran with with combination with the stock bottom end until I blew a head gasket at 223,000 miles and then built the ZZ4.
My guess is that you still have a intake gasket problem.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Dec 20, 2013 at 10:03 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
I suggest run a "Leak Down" test on engine that should tell you the soundness of each cylinder opinions vary on what is too much but 10% is too much to me. Listen for leaking compressed air at throttle body, tail pipe and valve covers. If you have high leakage and hear escaping air in valve covers you need rings. If you don't hear coming from there, make sure your PCV valve is correct AC vs aftermarket. PCV valves are flow rated the wrong one can cause oil use. If rings are not cause of leakage you need to repair or replace your heads. Chevrolet sbc have had poor valve guides for years. They did correct guide issues when aluminum head came out. High lift cams wear them out faster.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
I suggest run a "Leak Down" test on engine that should tell you the soundness of each cylinder opinions vary on what is too much but 10% is too much to me. Listen for leaking compressed air at throttle body, tail pipe and valve covers. If you have high leakage and hear escaping air in valve covers you need rings. If you don't hear coming from there, make sure your PCV valve is correct AC vs aftermarket. PCV valves are flow rated the wrong one can cause oil use. If rings are not cause of leakage you need to repair or replace your heads. Chevrolet sbc have had poor valve guides for years. They did correct guide issues when aluminum head came out. High lift cams wear them out faster.
I will try it if can get a hold of a tester. I don't think my PCV valve is bad because it passed the rattle test.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
The PCV valve thing concern how much air/vapor is pulled through it not if it rattles. Aftermarket can make one valve to replace 1-5 oem valves occasionally it will cause oil use.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
How can I test to see if it is sucking it up through there? I assume it will have oil inside the vacuum line?
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: co
105,000 is far form a virgin engine to try to hot rod with out an over haul
seal up the top end and your goi..ng get blow by in the rings. likely a lot.
pretty much the same thing you did but installing a new cam under the high mileage heads. changed the stroke on the push rods and dynamics of the valve train
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
WIth over .500 lift real good chance your retainers are hammering the guide boss tearing your seals up. Those may need to be taken down some. Remeasure whats going on there.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
I started the car in the morning today, no smoke. I revved it up, no smoke.
I had someone follow me, off idle acceleration, no smoke.
Hard acceleration, no smoke.
Checked the the cylinder 8 spark plug, was not covered in oil. Couldn't get to the 7th.
I tried to pull off the PCV valve to check inside the hose but that sucker was really on there so I couldn't get it off.
I had someone follow me, off idle acceleration, no smoke.
Hard acceleration, no smoke.
Checked the the cylinder 8 spark plug, was not covered in oil. Couldn't get to the 7th.
I tried to pull off the PCV valve to check inside the hose but that sucker was really on there so I couldn't get it off.