C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Need a more street-friendly combo

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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #21  
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If no tune, that is your main issue, and if really off could do some damage.
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 11:47 PM
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I still question the torque converter. A high stall torque converter is going to slip at lower RPMs. When the engine gets to the higher RPMs, it won't slip and the power of the engine will cause the car to "surge". If you are cruising at low RPM, less than 2800, the torque converter could be slipping, and that is the surge you feel. Yes, it could be a tuning problem, but a high stall torque converter is used for getting the engine up in RPMs before the transmission kicks in. If you want to cruise at low RPMs, you don't want a high stall torque converter.

I'd call Bullet up and ask them about that cam. Tell them how you want to drive the car, and if it will work with a lower stall torque converter.

Last edited by gwbutch; Dec 24, 2013 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 03:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN

So did you buy "WeavsVets" Corvette?
Yes. I know Mike was doing remote tuning by data logging so I'm not too sure what to expect from putting it on the dyno.

Chris
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 05:25 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gwbutch
I still question the torque converter. A high stall torque converter is going to slip at lower RPMs. When the engine gets to the higher RPMs, it won't slip and the power of the engine will cause the car to "surge". If you are cruising at low RPM, less than 2800, the torque converter could be slipping, and that is the surge you feel. Yes, it could be a tuning problem, but a high stall torque converter is used for getting the engine up in RPMs before the transmission kicks in. If you want to cruise at low RPMs, you don't want a high stall torque converter.

I'd call Bullet up and ask them about that cam. Tell them how you want to drive the car, and if it will work with a lower stall torque converter.



No disrespect intended by saying this, but have you ever drove a car with a high stall converter?
I can tell you, with all the ones I have drove, (3,000 or less stall) you cant even tell its different at light throttle. Stall is not a set number. It varies depending on the pressure (throttle) applied to it.
If anything, a higher stall converter will mask a low rpm surging problem.

BTW Bullet is not the manufacture of the cam. Its misspelled (Billet)

Last edited by 93 ragtop; Dec 24, 2013 at 05:28 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:28 AM
  #25  
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No disrespect intended by saying this, but have you ever drove a car with a high stall converter?
I can tell you, with all the ones I have drove, (3,000 or less stall) you cant even tell its different at light throttle. Stall is not a set number. It varies depending on the pressure (throttle) applied to it.
If anything, a higher stall converter will mask a low rpm surging problem.

BTW Bullet is not the manufacture of the cam. Its misspelled (Billet)
Thank you. No disrespect taken, and you are correct on assuming that I have never driven a car with a high stall converter. I put a 2000 stall converter in my car, and that's the highest I've driven. But, I still question the kind of "surge" that the OP is having. Is it really an engine problem? If he wants to do most of his driving at a low RPM, he does not want to have a high stall torque converter. At low RPMs, the clutch in the torque converter will be continuously slipping. The torque transfer my not be bumpless (depending upon the condition of the torque converter). Driving at low RPMs will heat up the transmission fluid and damage the transmission. I see no good reason to keep the high stall converter. The OP indicated he drives in low speed cruises (not high RPM); therefore, why would it be a good idea to keep the high stall? I question this out of ignorance. The cam does not appear to be too extreme, as far as having no power at low RPM. That is why I suggest calling Bullet to find out what the low RPM properties of that cam are. The sticker shows a Bullet Racing Cams camshaft, not billet. Billet is a chuck of metal that cams can be made from. Bullet Racing Cams teemed up with Harold Brookshire who was the creator/designer of Ultradyne Cams and Lunati VooDoo cam designer.

http://bulletcams.com/
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop


No disrespect intended by saying this, but have you ever drove a car with a high stall converter?
I can tell you, with all the ones I have drove, (3,000 or less stall) you cant even tell its different at light throttle. Stall is not a set number. It varies depending on the pressure (throttle) applied to it.
If anything, a higher stall converter will mask a low rpm surging problem.

BTW Bullet is not the manufacture of the cam. Its misspelled (Billet)
I agree that a higher stall will help mask the issues...

Bullet may not have actually "manufactured" the cam, but they package it as if they did. It's not misspelled.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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Well I stand corrected on the cam. To be honest, I never heard of Bullet cams. But again, I was wrong!!
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #28  
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Bullet does make their own cams. I have one in my car too.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #29  
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I would try the tune first.Those heads move air so the more lift the better so long as you aren't eating valve springs.One thing not mentioned thus far is the 111 LSA on the cam.A wider LSA may improve the idle and driveability some but that necessitates a cam change/regrind.There are many ways to band aid a problem so I would start with the tune first and go from there.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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Its the tune
If Mike designed the cam it oughta work well hes super good. Now lugging them around in OD at low speeds may uncover some "cam" but shouldnt be bad at all; thats not a big cam. Bet it could be improved, made perfect who knows. Hard to have it all

When you put a larger stick in you need the higher stall or when you come to a dead stop the engine will drag down and try to die.
To get it in its effective powerband so it pulls properly the stall speed is needed looks well matched to me.
Once had a 232@050 on a 108 FT with a 2800 and it would still drag down some at idle for ex. A lower stall would have meant having to pop it in N every time you pulled up to a light. Unless you were "into the throttle" you couldnt tell it had a higher stall in it.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 02:40 PM
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I talked with VA Speed and they seem to think its too much cam and rocker. I know they make money selling parts... One thing that struck me as odd is that they said they can't provide any tuning for my car. Seems like they are missing out on all of those LT cars. Well at least there is one LTX tuner in the area!

I don't put the car in OD unless I am on the hiway. 55+mph.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #32  
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Id like to chime in...

I agree with making sure the tune is correct. Those cam duration numbers arent really wild at all. And lift is never a bad thing.

If you still dont like it, perhaps convert to 6 spd manual? heck to do a cam swap you have to remove the trans aanywyas.

My 93 6spd has 224/236 114 lsa cam, 1 7/8" header, and a p600b supercharger.

I dont have any of the issues you describe....

Again though, i think a better tune will make your combo work fine as is
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 03:57 PM
  #33  
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There are a couple of top notch GM tuners in the Raleigh area.Not too far of a drive.

http://rpmmotorsportsnc.com/

http://mayhemmotorsports.net/

Both are top notch and have put out some serious efforts as well as daily upgrading street machines.Mayhem did the tune on my vette and I would have no qualms about RPM either.My engine builder has a working relationship with Mayhem and that's where we went.
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 04:44 PM
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Not sure if you talked to Ed Hutchings or not, but I know for a fact he does LT series motors. He has done mine, rklessdriver, and several others on here as well There is also Alvin at PCM4LESS of NC. To be honest, I would have used Alvin on my last motor, but just didn't want to have to haul the car so far. I used Ed based on rklessdriver's recommendation and again, I am very happy with his work. Both do excellent work. They both do dyno tunes.
Before you use VA Speed, do a search on this forum about them.
Oh, and here is a link to Alvin. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sout...of-nc-inc.html
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Old Dec 24, 2013 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Not sure if you talked to Ed Hutchings or not, but I know for a fact he does LT series motors. He has done mine, rklessdriver, and several others on here as well There is also Alvin at PCM4LESS of NC. To be honest, I would have used Alvin on my last motor, but just didn't want to have to haul the car so far. I used Ed based on rklessdriver's recommendation and again, I am very happy with his work. Both do excellent work. They both do dyno tunes.
Before you use VA Speed, do a search on this forum about them.
Oh, and here is a link to Alvin. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sout...of-nc-inc.html
I have an appointment with Ed on the 26th. VA speed has nothing to offer LTX owners... Well except for machine service and parts, but I am sure you can get them cheaper on line. I can't see any reason to use Alvin since he is 6 hours away. I could maybe see mail order tunes if it was just the standard LT1 to LT4 conversion with a CAI and a catback.

I think what kills me is that the MC industry is light years ahead of auto industry when it comes to tuning and support.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 10:02 AM
  #36  
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Update:
No dyno'ing today. Ed's cable for LT tuning wouldn't work when he bench tested it, so he has to replace it or get it repaired. I guess that gives me more time to consider one of the 3 options:
1. LSX conversion
2. FAST EFI conversion
3. LSX ECM & coil conversion
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 10:06 AM
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That motor is plenty tunable no need to spend thousands of dollars
See if his cable gets fixed or find someone else.
Some guys will spend the time to do it other times you get a story and a sales job. Heard that one before. hmm.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 10:37 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
That motor is plenty tunable no need to spend thousands of dollars
See if his cable gets fixed or find someone else.
Some guys will spend the time to do it other times you get a story and a sales job. Heard that one before. hmm.
Ed didn't offer up any of these options. I had been thinking about since I started looking for my C4. I knew that tuning support for OBD I and LT cars were a dying market.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cmashark
Update:
No dyno'ing today. Ed's cable for LT tuning wouldn't work when he bench tested it, so he has to replace it or get it repaired. I guess that gives me more time to consider one of the 3 options:
1. LSX conversion
2. FAST EFI conversion
3. LSX ECM & coil conversion
All a waste of $$. You have a strong running car, just get it tuned.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
All a waste of $$. You have a strong running car, just get it tuned.
Eh, maybe... I guess it is safe to end this thread. I have decided to go the LSX route. Ordered a harness yesterday. Time to start shopping. I'll be parting out the LT1 set up in the near future.
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