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I want .3

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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 02:57 PM
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Default I want .3

87 has ZZ4 shortblock, 180cc intake heads, Miniram and headers. 700R4 and 3.07s. Can I get .3 with a cam ? Car runs 12.80 @ 108. I want 12.50. I'd like to do a cam and be there. I could do 3.73 gears if needed but I would rather just do the cam. A loose converter or gears may just get me traction trouble and I dont want to deal with that. Currently get 1.86 60' times on real street tires. It hooks if I stage at 1000 rpm. Any higher and it spins.
Give some ideas and no Im not going to spray it.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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If your not willing to go with a new stall converter to compliment the new cam I doubt it. Unless your stuff was WAY off to begin with but IMO the ZZ4 cam is decent choice for the combo you have.

It would be tough for just a cam change to pick up .3 on the big end... the big end of the track is the hardest place to pick up ET.


Yes I feel I could pick you up with a cam change but I wouldn't guarantee 3 tenths.

The thing is when chasing ET everything is in the 1st half and the 60ft.... That is traction. For traction your gonna need some Drag Radials to get that 60ft down. The more power you out to it early the harder to hook up it's gonna be.

With what your telling me about your launch now.... I would tell you to go and spend $450 on a set of MT Drag Radials and I bet that will get you where you what to be.
Will
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:41 PM
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Stickier tires will get you two tenths.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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You need drag radials. I've had success with MT DRs. Get a set and you won't have to worry about traction issues..........even if you go to a higher stall TC or steeper gears.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Jack, when mine was bone stock except for 3.54 gears it ran 13.17 and I think it was a 1.9x 60 ft time. I switched the converter to a 3000 yank and ran 12.91 with a 1.7x 60ft time. This was done with mich. pilot tires.
I think with good street tires and a well prepped track you could get there.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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I am willing to go drag radials. Pretty sure the tires and a harder launch would get my 60s to the 1.7s. They want $350+ for 3.73s for my Dana 36, then I have to pay someone to set them up. I'd rather do converter and a cam. Somebody recommend a cam that will get me the max from my head/intake set up ??
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
I am willing to go drag radials. Pretty sure the tires and a harder launch would get my 60s to the 1.7s. They want $350+ for 3.73s for my Dana 36, then I have to pay someone to set them up. I'd rather do converter and a cam. Somebody recommend a cam that will get me the max from my head/intake set up ??
The other issue is that going to DRs could cause an early demise to your D36
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
The other issue is that going to DRs could cause an early demise to your D36
Thats why I have never used them. My daily drive is down to near nothing now, I only work part time. I am sort of willing to risk breaking it. I'd only break it once though.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Could always spray it a lil.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
87 has ZZ4 shortblock, 180cc intake heads, Miniram and headers. 700R4 and 3.07s. Can I get .3 with a cam ? Car runs 12.80 @ 108. I want 12.50. I'd like to do a cam and be there. I could do 3.73 gears if needed but I would rather just do the cam. A loose converter or gears may just get me traction trouble and I dont want to deal with that. Currently get 1.86 60' times on real street tires. It hooks if I stage at 1000 rpm. Any higher and it spins.
Give some ideas and no Im not going to spray it.
Originally Posted by BOOT77
Could always spray it a lil.
See original post.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Thats why I have never used them. My daily drive is down to near nothing now, I only work part time. I am sort of willing to risk breaking it. I'd only break it once though.
I'm a slow learner...............I broke two D36s before I went to a D44
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:44 PM
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What's wrong with a lil 50hp hit? Prob be the quickest, easiest, cheapest. With your mods it's not gonna be one thing.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:58 PM
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I like the concept. I dont like the idea of filling the bottles over and over. Can I get a 100# bottle that will last 1/2 the season ?
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:39 AM
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That big bottle, might give you some more traction! LOL j/k

I'm not big on nitruos myself it's too easy and that leads tah trouble for most people, they want more and jet up. You want .3 maybe a shift kit, take 100lbs out, 1.6 rockers if you haven't done all 3 yet.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the tune...

has that been explored to the limits of the hard parts installed now?
You have some nice stuff inside already. IMO, you should be in the mid 12s now. I think the gear is the ONLY thing holding it back. If you want to keep that, and I WOULD for a DD, I go with:

.... tires, tune and shed some weight. Its pretty easy to drop 2-300 lbs from the interior. It can ALL be reinstalled too.

May not be pretty but everybody will be looking at the slip, not the upholstery !
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Somebody recommend a cam that will get me the max from my head/intake set up ??
Stock ZZ4 heads? I was thinking they'd be smaller than 180cc, but you don't list what heads you're running. (In this thread OR your profile.)

You gotta know that matching cam lift to head flow characteristics will maximize power.

If you run something like a superram cam, I'm wondering if you can get an extra .2 from the added lift and intake duration?

Then maybe get the other .1 thru weight reduction/cold air? Pull the driver's seat, spare tire, and have your 98# wife/girlfriend nail it down the track when it's 12 degrees outside!

What about pulleys, fresh tires, air foil, thinner motor oil, frisbee, cut-plugs, and clean air filter?

What's your compression? Could you throw more timing and run higher octane? Or, run lower octane with your current timing? What about 100% gasoline -- since it has more BTUs?

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jan 3, 2014 at 12:01 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the tune...

has that been explored to the limits of the hard parts installed now?
You have some nice stuff inside already. IMO, you should be in the mid 12s now. I think the gear is the ONLY thing holding it back. If you want to keep that, and I WOULD for a DD, I go with:

.... tires, tune and shed some weight. Its pretty easy to drop 2-300 lbs from the interior. It can ALL be reinstalled too.

May not be pretty but everybody will be looking at the slip, not the upholstery !
Tune has been tweaked. I dont see any way to pull that much weight. I drive this car daily and dont want to be working real hard every time I take it to the track.
Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Stock ZZ4 heads? I was thinking they'd be smaller than 180cc, but you don't list what heads you're running. (In this thread OR your profile.)

You gotta know that matching cam lift to head flow characteristics will maximize power.

If you run something like a superram cam, I'm wondering if you can get an extra .2 from the added lift and intake duration?

Then maybe get the other .1 thru weight reduction/cold air? Pull the driver's seat, spare tire, and have your 98# wife/girlfriend nail it down the track when it's 12 degrees outside!

What about pulleys, fresh tires, air foil, thinner motor oil, frisbee, cut-plugs, and clean air filter?

What's your compression? Could you throw more timing and run higher octane? Or, run lower octane with your current timing? What about 100% gasoline -- since it has more BTUs?
I will look up the 219 cam. It has underdrive pulleys. No cut plugs though. The ex weighs in at 100# and would probably drive but if I "pull the driver seat", she wont be able to see over the steering wheel.
Running 93 octane, 10.6 compression. Cam and converter or gears may be the answer.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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Jack I would be glad to do you cam but I need to know what valve springs you have, what rockers and what your willing to do on the stall converter.

With the 180 AFR's and the mini ram your OK staying with a 3.07 gear IMO.

I also think the D36 will be fine for a while with the power you going to make... As long as it's in good shape right now.

I see you getting the 60ft down into the low 1.70's maybe high 1.60's. You need to check you clutch pack break away TQ and start keeping record of it everytime you go to the track... this way you can spot a problem before it grenades.
Will
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rklessdriver
Jack I would be glad to do you cam but I need to know what valve springs you have, what rockers and what your willing to do on the stall converter.

With the 180 AFR's and the mini ram your OK staying with a 3.07 gear IMO.

I also think the D36 will be fine for a while with the power you going to make... As long as it's in good shape right now.

I see you getting the 60ft down into the low 1.70's maybe high 1.60's. You need to check you clutch pack break away TQ and start keeping record of it everytime you go to the track... this way you can spot a problem before it grenades.
Will
Posi is weak right now. It will get the clutch pack kit before I get back to the track. The heads are Pro Topline aluminum 180s. I got them years ago before their reputation went down hill. I did freshen them up about 40k miles ago. Dont remember the specs on the springs but they are 1.43' diameter single springs + dampener inner. I am not opposed to replacing the springs with the heads in place. Rockers are stock 1.5s I think. Have to look to be sure. Its been a while. I am up in the air on the converter. $800 seems to be the going rate. + $800 to freshen up the trans. Thats going to happen anyway though.
How much do you think I can gain wit the cam, valvetrain upgrade ?
Confession. A year from now I may be going C6, thats why I hate to buy gears and the converter.
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:01 PM
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With a cam, the right valve train and 3000 stall, (with traction of course) I could get you into the low 12s possibly high 11s if the tune is really good.

Staying with 1.5 rockers I would recomend something like.

272/280@.006
218/227@.050
.562/.562 w 1.5 ratio
108 ICL 112 LSA

This is a custom grind from Mike Jones' "HR" series lobes. It would haul the mail in your stuff with right converter and a good tune.
Will
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