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If I wanted to just delete the AIR system, but leave the EGR system intact, could I just remove this T fitting above the driver side manifold and run a regular straight through coupler?
The reason I am asking is because the EGR and AIR system both utilize the same tubing, but I would like to keep the EGR system since all of the components are working properly and that it helps cool combustion chamber temps and prevent spark knock. The AIR pump is getting a little old and I can start to hear it a little more when I start the car up. So I was pondering if I could just cap off that T fitting where the AIR system connects with the rest of the EGR tubing. I know the Impala's had a TSB where you could remove the AIR pump but leave the EGR intact, but their system is a little different in that the EGR system has its own separate plumbing.
Do it just like the LT4. No EGR. And I dont remember what the EGR tube looks like, its been about 10 years since I owned a LT1...
And for the manifolds... a 2000 dodge ram (dont remember which engine) drain plug will work to cap off the holes in the manifolds. (I just did this last year)
In Austin, TX, State Inspection is pretty strict as they verify the air pump is there. The electric motor on the air pump on my 92 is actually frozen up and fuse removed. You may want to leave it there until the vehicle is 25 years old, which in Texas, is when they stop emission checks on vehicles.
I got up and close with an LT1 C4 yesterday... you dont need that T pipe. You can remove everything that is connected to the AIR system. The egr gets its exhaust from elsewhere. It gets and supplies its exhaust to the intake itself. None of the AIR system is connected with the EGR system.
And you dont have to retune to remove the EGR, you can just use a blockoff plate. As long as the solenoid is connected, it assumes it is working correctly. The car cannot measure the reduction in NOx emissions, which is the sole function of the EGR.
Last edited by merlot566jka; Jan 5, 2014 at 02:14 PM.
Reason: additional information
If I recall correctly my 93 threw a light due to just the air pump being removed, which forced the fans to run all the time.
I gutted the pump (took the fan blade out) to quiet it down in the meantime and removed the tubing to the diverter you have pictured. Put the pump back in minus the internals and plugged it in. It fooled the system into thinking it was working.
Eventually I took everything out along with the egr and tuned it out via pcmforless
I know I am way late but just wanted to follow up and say thanks guys. Everything is removed with no lights. Left the EGR solenoid hooked up. Computer is happy. Will still be getting a mail order tune from Bryan at PCM for less just for peace of mind and to reprogram my fans.
Do you need to plug and of the tubes after deleting air and egr? My tuner deleted them from my tune, I have block off plates installed on intake. I routed the ergs vac line to the fuel pressure reg, I want to be sure I've plugged everything I need to there are some open tubes below the asr unit I'm wondering about. I'm leaving air pump in for 2 more years (tx). I can't find a write up that covers this in detail.
I tried unplugging the blower as seen here...
But on my 93 the SEL came on within minutes.
So is the only option to gut the motor? Mine squeals and make such a racket I can't stand it anymore.
My 92 ran without the SES light for years with the fuse blown on the blower motor and the connector connected to the motor. My car has a fuse adjacent to the blower motor housing.
My 92 ran without the SES light for years with the fuse blown on the blower motor and the connector connected to the motor. My car has a fuse adjacent to the blower motor housing.
The fuse? It is between the blower and that big connector in your photo, attached to the blower housing, connected to one of the 2 wires going to the blower. If you do not have one there and can't find it, just cut one of the 2 wires at the blower. Your blower sounds wasted anyway. I couldn't post a photo as i have removed the blower all together. I put a Wolo horn in its place using the circuit and fuse from the blower motor to operate a horn relay. As the big connector is connected, it is making the resistance path fooling the ECM that the blower is still there.
Last edited by mixalive; Apr 26, 2015 at 11:36 AM.
The fuse? It is between the blower and that big connector in your photo, attached to the blower housing, connected to one of the 2 wires going to the blower. If you do not have one there and can't find it, just cut one of the 2 wires at the blower. Your blower sounds wasted anyway. I couldn't post a photo as i have removed the blower all together. I put a Wolo horn in its place using the circuit and fuse from the blower motor to operate a horn relay. As the big connector is connected, it is making the resistance path fooling the ECM that the blower is still there.
I think the big connector at the air pump is similar to the connectors at the fans, in-that their connection creates a resistance path that the ECM monitors. Disconnect the connectors, the resistance changes and the ECM will display the SES light.
Here is an image of my 92 air pump delete. I installed a relay and a Wolo horn on the air pump bracket and used the air pump circuit for power. The relay and fuse are mounted on the back side of the bracket. Notice the air pump connector is connected so the ECM see's it as the pump is present.
Last edited by mixalive; Sep 10, 2019 at 11:35 AM.
LT1 AIR pump delete
