I have a 96 grand sport and the PKE system does not work properly.
1. The remote will open the hatch.
2. remote will not lock or unlock doors. A clicking sound can be heard
in the doors when remote is pressed.
3 Doors do not lock or unlock when walking away or approaching the
car.
4 new battery in remote
5. PKE system will accept programing for the remote.
6 when ignition switch turned on, no DIC indication.

Any thoughts on how to identify and fix problem would be helpful.

 

Sounds like the system is in sleep mode. Do you know how to take it out of sleep mode or have an owner's manual.

As you know, it is a passive system and you do not push any button to open the doors.

 

I read through the owners manual. I did try the steps they specified for turning the system on and off. It did not change anything. I even tried reprogramming the remote to the system. No change. I have the car a few months and this did not work from day one so, it is not something that just happened

 

Is this what you tried with the KEY out of the ignition?

Press the door key on the transmitter until the locks cycle (about 2 seconds). (Same procedure to turn it on or off).

When it's ON and operating properly, the PKE light should light for 2 seconds.

 

Yes, this is exactly what I did per the manual. I don't get a PKE light at any time. I do hear the locks click a little one louder than the other but they don't lock or unlock the doors.

 

During the programming procedure that you say you have done, does the PKE light ever flash or come on at any time?

Do your electric door locks work properly from inside the car with the slide switches?

Check fuses 26, 40 and 42 to make sure they are good.

 

Pcolt94,

Yes during the programming, the PKE light flashes appropriately according to the manual. Yes the door locks perfectly from inside the car. It seems the only thing the remote can do is open the hatch.
I will check those fuses.
Sledge_78

 

The PKE receiver surly can be defective. But if this was my car, before I got too involved in the car or replace the PKE receiver, I would try another key FOB. You never know what could be bad but that just seems the first simple and logical step in the troubleshooting process.

There probably is a few more simple things to check on the car as I am trying to come up with some but I'm sure other will chime in.

Does your security light on the dash flash when you open the door? (key out)

Do the interior lights work normal, go off when door is closed?

You might try disconnecting the battery in the car for a minute and doing a reset. It's a very long shot but……..

 

Sounds like the fob and receiver are communicating based on the correct DIC feedback during programming.

To be honest, the PKE is a silly novelty that tends to be more of an aggrivation than anything. After a while you get tired of walking away from the car, keeping your ear peeled (pealed?) for the horn to chirp. You have to lay the keys down to go back and check to see if it locked, otherwise the door unlocks when you approach! Unlocking the door with the key is an old school PITA, but the results are consistent!

 

It may be a silly option but it is there and for resale value it should work. You are correct the system seems to be communicating but it does nothing but open the hatch.
Sledge_78

 

You are correct it sounds like they are communicating. I would think it's good also. But when you start making assumptions, taking short cuts and not starting from the top, that can make you miss the target and waste time.

You sure are entitled to your opinion and opinions do differ. Many don’t like the PKE system. I happen to like it as I don’t lock my keys in the car anymore. It's part of the car, should work and proud my car is 100% as many are not. I did not buy it in the shape it is now (PKE was dead). I must say, I get a bit of a positive charge when I walk away with my key and the locks click and the horn beeps. It's a feeling of accomplishment of a job well done every time.

But I'm here to share my knowledge and experience to help anyone who want it and makes an effort to help himself (or her).

 

When you try to turn the system on, how long are you waiting? The manual says 2 seconds (I think), but I have had to wait from 5 to 10 for the system to turn on or off. It's possible the sound you are hearing is the pass. door unlocking. The fob and receiver are communicating or the hatch button would not work. Could be a partial failure in the receiver I guess. Do your interior lights go on/off when you open close the doors?

 

Check to see if the click you are hearing is the passenger door unlocking. If the hatch button works, you can eliminate the reprogramming as a fix. It's already communicating. On the surface, it sounds like not enough voltage (or ground, as the case may be) is being provided to the locks to pull them on, but the lock button is providing enough to pull them on..

 

Actually this is a very logical thought and the reason I had asked if the electronic door locks were working.

The actual door motor current does not flow thru the door switches.

The actual way the system works is not that way. The door lock motors get activated by a relay in the PKE receiver. The door lock switch on the doors activates these relays in the PKE and not the actual door motors. This part is working OK.

It's when you try to use the FOB, it doesn’t want to activate the door relays in the PKE receiver to open the doors via the door motors.

There could be a fault in the PKE receiver where the passive part of the circuit does not communicate properly to the relay but does with the manual switch.

 

I understand the sentiment completely. My 94 came with two key fobs, but only one worked. Under a magnifying glass, I saw that one of the leads on the antenna coil in the remote was broken. I actually rewound the antenna using the original wire to get the remote working. So now I can say my system works, and I can show the next owner how you can lock your keys in the car and just bounce the fender to get the doors to unlock. In the mean time, the fobs will be in my sock drawer where they belong.

As others have mentioned, the door button on the remote will unlock the passenger door when pushed. I guess that is for date night. It is all I can do to fall into the driver's seat. There's no way I am climbing over the console!

 

When all else fails, the key will still unlock the drivers door.

 

The problem has been resolved. The solution to getting the PKE to function in the passive mode was a combination of two events. First: I had always noticed the door handle on the drivers side required an extra effort to open the door at least compared to the passenger side and my C5. After checking the Service manual, there were many tolerances that applied to the door latch and striker. The striker did have some wear on the top surface so I thought I might have to adjust it. Before I did that I took some penetrating oil and sprayed it on the latch mechanism, why not. The door handle opened the door with hardly any resistance. I was happy with that. Second: After reading the service manual again and again, I was convinced the system was in Passive disable, proof the PKE light did not come on when turning on the ignition. So, I sat there with the key out of the ignition pressed the door button on the remote for 2 seconds or so and Walla the door locks cycled. This did not happen before. So I closed the door walked away from the car and the doors locked and the horn tooted. When I returned the door lock opened as I approached the drivers door. NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AS IT SHOULD. Did the lubricant on the door latch alleviate the problem so the drivers door could cycle and allow the system to enter passive mode?

Sledge_78

 

Yes, very possible. The system is predicated that the door switches have to be closed for the system to operate to lock and unlock the car. Sounds like the door switches are closing now.