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I want to check the engine block ground due to intermittent dash light and ignition issue. I can see it from under the car but cannot figure out how to get to it to clean and tighten. I cannot find a procedure in the service manual. I have error codes and other symptoms indicating this may be issue so I do not need assistance in diagnosing the problem, just help in getting access to the location please.
Thank you
Paul
Yes, I have spend some quality time searching forum and could not find the information I need. If you know a thread please share.
[QUOTE=blackbear bob;1585897846]from below remove the bolt and clean
Either you have not done this or you have a nice lift and had Cat's removed beforehand. The bolt cannot be accessed from underneath with the CAT in place :P
You may have answered your own question. I'm finding out as I tear into my 94', things have to be removed to get at things and the manual may not say. I just got done doing the inline fuel filter and it was interesting to do and I got my exhaust removed. I couldn't imagine doing it with the fat cat there. Seems like a lot of work to get at one bolt for sure, the oil temp switch would be hard also. Good luck.
Wow, I really need some assistance. I can almost get to it with the inner fender removed; the angle is just slightly wrong and not sure the nut bolt/nut size with an v. long extension.
Started removing TWC (cat) but 20+years of rust is preventing me from removing studs holding cat to the brace and can't seem to get to the brace to transmission bolts. Seems like the entire exhaust needs to be removed as stated in the shop manual before removing cats!!!
Please Help, I know someone here must have had to get to this bolt/nut.
I removed that bolt over the summer to clean everything up. I didn't remove the cat or anything else. I remember using my impact wrench and long extensions in addition to other tools. Cant remember the particulars but it can be done and it was a pain. This was on a 94.
I removed my battery last night and you can see the bolt straight on. The battery removal is not too bad. You can at least tighten the bolt or make sure its tight. I wouldn't remove it to clean it unless it was loose and even then I may not. There are a few other wires going there and I would think you'd have other issues also. Anyway a straight shot with the battery out. Good luck.
I removed my battery last night and you can see the bolt straight on. The battery removal is not too bad. You can at least tighten the bolt or make sure its tight. I wouldn't remove it to clean it unless it was loose and even then I may not. There are a few other wires going there and I would think you'd have other issues also. Anyway a straight shot with the battery out. Good luck.
I agree, mine looked terrible and my ground strap was corroded so I replaced it and cleaned everything up. Knowing what I know now, I would have just tightened the bolt and cleaned the ground with a long handle brush instead of removing It.
I did wind up accessing it from the side, inner fender liner and battery removed. Loosened it up and from underneath sprayed electric component cleaner :roll (not sure is best choice) for lack of being able to truly access it and then tightened it back up.
Started it up; running just fine and then as soon as my radiator fans kicked it my dash flashes dim and bright and voltage gauge fluctuates up and down quickly. The fans have been wired to come on by PO I think and run at high constantly. Hopefully this narrows down the ground/short (if is issue) I am troubleshooting. Looking at the relays I see no "spare" wires coming out of them so it is a mystery to me how they are wired to come on. Basically within a minute or 2 of starting they kick on. The search here and at the car continues.
The fans have been wired to come on by PO
I see no "spare" wires coming out of them so it is a mystery to me how they are wired to come on.
Basically within a minute or 2 of starting they kick on.
Maybe the fan ON programming in the tune has been changed ?