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Is that the smog pump? If so, I think there was a stud with nut in middle that goes on before the bracket, then nut goes over the bracket to tighten the bracket down.
OK, that sounds right. I had all the power steering bolts sitting in their respective holes so I wouldn't have to remember where they went, but then I ended up pushing the car out of the garage for a different project and I bet the bolts fell out. I should have taped them!
I was just looking over a couple prior pics in this thread, and here's a crop of one of them. It might show the bolt in question.
If you can't find it, I removed my air pump/AC/tensioner last summer and I think I still have most of the stuff in a box in my barn. If we can I.D. what you need, I'll see if I have it. (mine is an 85 also)
EDIT...I found these two bolts in the box. They're dirty & have black RTV on the threads, but should clean up fine w/ a wire brush. If you need them, shoot me a P.M.
Or if time's an issue, you could always get a longer 3/8" 16 bolt, cut the head off, a couple nuts & washers...
Wow, the answer was in my own picture! How embarrassing. I went through what I thought was all the pictures on my phone and couldn't find it. I took a picture after removing each part so I wouldn't have to ask these questions. Oh, the shame...
It's funny that you posted this at the exact time I was outside looking for the bolt. I don't typically lose stuff. They must be around here somewhere. Thank you very much for the kind offer though!
I found the missing bolt. It had fallen under the crankshaft pulley.
Unfortunately, it won't crank with the key. I can jump the big purple wire and get it to crank, but I was unable to get it to start because the battery only had enough juice for a couple revolutions.
EDIT: It cranks with the key with a little more battery charging. I will make her run today!
Last edited by ishootstuff; Apr 6, 2014 at 08:59 AM.
OK, I have spark. I'm just ignorant and neglected to connect the wire that goes to the distributor cap next to the tach signal. Derp...
Unfortunately, the car hates me. Today I determined it wasn't getting fuel despite the fuel rail having plenty of pressure. I pulled the injectors and all but one were not spraying. I reverse flushed them and bench tested with air pressure that they were revived, reinstalled them and... same thing. It cranks, but won't start.
It doesn't pop - but it tries. It will crank faster if I crank it without having spark. I'm 100% sure the distributor is not 180 out. When I installed it, the driver side front cylinder had both valves closed, the timing mark was at 0 and the rotor pointed towards #1 plug wire. Rotor moves clockwise and firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with all the odds being on the driver side of the engine.
OK, I have spark. I'm just ignorant and neglected to connect the wire that goes to the distributor cap next to the tach signal. Derp...
Unfortunately, the car hates me. Today I determined it wasn't getting fuel despite the fuel rail having plenty of pressure. I pulled the injectors and all but one were not spraying. I reverse flushed them and bench tested with air pressure that they were revived, reinstalled them and... same thing. It cranks, but won't start.
It doesn't pop - but it tries. It will crank faster if I crank it without having spark. I'm 100% sure the distributor is not 180 out. When I installed it, the driver side front cylinder had both valves closed, the timing mark was at 0 and the rotor pointed towards #1 plug wire. Rotor moves clockwise and firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with all the odds being on the driver side of the engine.
I'm getting pretty frustrated here...
I had same thing after engine replacement and it was distributor in 180 out.
I'm 100% sure the distributor is not 180 out. When I installed it, the driver side front cylinder had both valves closed, the timing mark was at 0 and the rotor pointed towards #1 plug wire. Rotor moves clockwise and firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with all the odds being on the driver side of the engine.
I'm getting pretty frustrated here...
Ditto 7d8. Both #1 valves can appear closed when it's actually on the #6 firing position. You have to watch them as the mark approaches TDC to make sure they aren't still moving - if neither one has moved for the last half turn of the crank, that's #1; if exhaust is closing as the mark approaches TDC, that's #6.
Best way is to have #1 spark plug out and hold your finger over the spark plug hole as the mark approaches TDC. If you're doing this using the starter, I highly recommend not having power to the ignition while you're doing it (ask me why...).
I did validate watching the valves open and close as I rotated the the crankshaft and watched the timing mark come to zero. it's been a long time since I worked with a distributor, but I still remember. Thank god there's no dwell or point gap to set!
Nope, it's a fuel thing. I got it to run a little this morning for about 15 seconds after a lot of starting fluid. I used a different procedure for cleaning my injectors than I normally do. I forgot about them and let them sit in the solution for two days. I think they are reclogged.
I did validate watching the valves open and close as I rotated the the crankshaft and watched the timing mark come to zero. it's been a long time since I worked with a distributor, but I still remember. Thank god there's no dwell or point gap to set!
Nope, it's a fuel thing. I got it to run a little this morning for about 15 seconds after a lot of starting fluid. I used a different procedure for cleaning my injectors than I normally do. I forgot about them and let them sit in the solution for two days. I think they are reclogged.
Watching the intake valve come up, and then go down while rotating in the proper direction of rotation and bringing it to zero is the correct method for determining the compression stroke for number 1. Without a timing cover you can also bring the dots on cam, and crank gear to 12 oclock. Putting a finger over the plug hole to feel for compression may work, but the above is proper.
Now, with that said. The ecm must see an ignition pulse prior to pulsing the injectors. A noid light is a great way to see if injectors are pulsing. Bad ICM, or maybe the damn rat chewed one of the conductors sending this signal back to the ecm?