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I've seen this problem posted before, the dash blanks out and comes back after a sharp blow to the dash. I remember discussion of cold solder joints and corroded P/Js. I will remove and clean the P/js and "touch-up" solder joints. I have two questions; does anyone have a pictoral or online diagram fn the most likely problem areas; and is the Dash Repair Manual available from Eckler's worth the price? Thanks in advance for the help.
There are 2 circuit boards that make up the dash cluster and they plug into each other via a single row of pins. The pin closest to the center of the circuit board carries the lamp current and the socket on the rear board has a spring that gets age relaxed and causes connection resistance. The lamp current through this resistance causes heat and unsolders the pin from the front board. This is what causes your dash to go on and off. Stop hitting the dash and repair it by removing the boards and solder a short piece of insulated hook up wire from the pin to the socket. Resoldering the pin will not work as it will unsolder itself again. Batee's site will explain with pictures how to remove the circuit boards.
Thanks, I'm glad you described a retrofit repair procedure, I would have just resoldered the connections. I was planning to clean the panel and lamps because the display seems dim during the daylight. The light sensor seems to work, but I'm wondering if 17 years of dust on the bulbs and contact corrosion could be the problem. Thanks again.