cranks, won't start
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 686
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
You may have made the same mistake I did when my INJ 2 fuse blew.
The INJ 1 fuse is a higher amp rating than the INJ 2 fuse. I don't have my FSM handy and the car is at the shop. The INJ 1 fuse is 20 or 30 amp if I can recall.
When my INJ 2 fuse blew I checked the one below it - of course it was OK. When I checked the correct fuse it was blown.
As an aside, the engine would start and run with the INJ 2 fuse blown, just wouldn't run well
If you are getting pulses on both sides it may not be the fuse
And the 93 is like my 92 - MAP only, no MAF.
The INJ 1 fuse is a higher amp rating than the INJ 2 fuse. I don't have my FSM handy and the car is at the shop. The INJ 1 fuse is 20 or 30 amp if I can recall.
When my INJ 2 fuse blew I checked the one below it - of course it was OK. When I checked the correct fuse it was blown.
As an aside, the engine would start and run with the INJ 2 fuse blown, just wouldn't run well
If you are getting pulses on both sides it may not be the fuse
And the 93 is like my 92 - MAP only, no MAF.
I found there fuses, one behind the battery, big fuse. It is GOOD. Two inj fuses in passenger side door side of dash, both good.
Last edited by ChrisWhewell; Mar 12, 2014 at 01:34 PM. Reason: add fuse info
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
You say you have spark you say you have fuel. You have back firing.
Find TDC #1. Know how to do that?
Make a pointer, mark the damper at your pointer.
Used a timing light on #1 plug wire to see if you're getting spark at the right time. If not, your timing is not right.
Find TDC #1. Know how to do that?
Make a pointer, mark the damper at your pointer.
Used a timing light on #1 plug wire to see if you're getting spark at the right time. If not, your timing is not right.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 686
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
You say you have spark you say you have fuel. You have back firing.
Find TDC #1. Know how to do that?
Make a pointer, mark the damper at your pointer.
Used a timing light on #1 plug wire to see if you're getting spark at the right time. If not, your timing is not right.
Find TDC #1. Know how to do that?
Make a pointer, mark the damper at your pointer.
Used a timing light on #1 plug wire to see if you're getting spark at the right time. If not, your timing is not right.
Yeah, I know how to find TDC. It sure "feels" like a timing issue. I cranked it up, and it was wanting to start, more than any other time in this fiasco. Almost caught but battery waned.
OK, so, if the timing is off, how does one adjust timing on a 93 ? The car was running fine, I pulled it in the garage after a 30 mile trip. About 10 days later I tried to start it, it wouldn't start. So something happened while it was sitting. It had been getting harder to start prior to that.
I unhooked the battery, while I charge it. Maybe it has some bad karma in its memory.
How does one adjust timing on a '93 ??
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Joined: May 2021
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At least you are smart enough to ask for advice/help ( many do not)...because your gut may be tricking you...because if your "gut" was right...you would not be posting questions and you would have already fixed it.
The fuel filter should have been REPLACED when NEW injectors when into the engine. But what do I know.
Then if you KNOW what you need...(fuel pressure gauge)...why not go get one???? If not... go to a shop and have them check it. I do it free of charge when I am running a diagnostic...along with my scanner. 5-10 minutes and I am done with a basic check.
The fuel pressure gauge will also allow you with another special tool verify that your fuel injectors are balanced. Ohming out fuel injectors is one easy test...but means nothing at all when it comes to what the fuel injector puts out in a 50 pulse test...and what the ending fuel pressure is when all are tested. If my memory serves me correctly...the injectors have to be within 5 Kpa of each other...or that is what the GM service manual states...if I am not mistaken. I assume nothing. You might be surprised like I have been when I "thought" they were OK...only to find out they were NOT.
YEAH...I would say you are "lucky" also without the correct diagnostic tools. If you keep having problems...you might find that you will need to have specific test equipment to make sure that the data can be received and used for a correct repair procedure. Good luck on reading O2 crosscounts, block learn values, intregrator, IAC vaules MAF gm/sec values and many other data inputs that can direct you to a repair easily...instead of flying my the seat of your pants.
I can relate to changing the fuel filter due to age and possible water in it also. But the reason being...if you find that the fuel pressure is low/bad...and you are replacing the fuel pump in the tank....that would be the time to replace the filter at the same time while the system is down....BECAUSE...I have (in the past) done what you are thinking...ONLY to find that when I went into the fuel tank AFTER replacing the fuel filter...there was so much crap and debris...and the sock was not in good shape at all. I had to remove the new fuel filter due to wanting to blow out the fuel line to make sure it was clean because I was wanting to make sure the system was as good as possible for my customer.....But do as you choose.
I do not need a thermometer either...to tell me if it is hot or cold...but you can not tell me the exact temperature either. Using that philosophy...."guessing" the fuel pressure on a 1982 or a 1984 would make you run in circles for a while....BEEN THERE...DO NOT DO THAT ANY MORE. Engine runs and then begins to "hunt" for a smooth idle ...which was due to low fuel pressure.
I also have a "feel" for things...but I can tell you...that I have been doing this for so long...just like you it appears....I could not tell you the pressure of the fuel system while it is running or being primed when the key is on. I have had engines like yours run at 22 psi...but weren't quite right. My "gut" tells me many things...but I have also come to appreciate my diagnostic tools that can confirm my "gut" or actually prove me wrong and send me down another path of repair to fix the problem.
I am trying to save you TIME...for the long haul...but I guess that you are going to do what you want when you want...which is you choice.
Why GUESS at something... when you can KNOW for a fact..
I wish you the BEST OF LUCK,
DUB
The fuel filter should have been REPLACED when NEW injectors when into the engine. But what do I know.
Then if you KNOW what you need...(fuel pressure gauge)...why not go get one???? If not... go to a shop and have them check it. I do it free of charge when I am running a diagnostic...along with my scanner. 5-10 minutes and I am done with a basic check.
The fuel pressure gauge will also allow you with another special tool verify that your fuel injectors are balanced. Ohming out fuel injectors is one easy test...but means nothing at all when it comes to what the fuel injector puts out in a 50 pulse test...and what the ending fuel pressure is when all are tested. If my memory serves me correctly...the injectors have to be within 5 Kpa of each other...or that is what the GM service manual states...if I am not mistaken. I assume nothing. You might be surprised like I have been when I "thought" they were OK...only to find out they were NOT.
YEAH...I would say you are "lucky" also without the correct diagnostic tools. If you keep having problems...you might find that you will need to have specific test equipment to make sure that the data can be received and used for a correct repair procedure. Good luck on reading O2 crosscounts, block learn values, intregrator, IAC vaules MAF gm/sec values and many other data inputs that can direct you to a repair easily...instead of flying my the seat of your pants.
I can relate to changing the fuel filter due to age and possible water in it also. But the reason being...if you find that the fuel pressure is low/bad...and you are replacing the fuel pump in the tank....that would be the time to replace the filter at the same time while the system is down....BECAUSE...I have (in the past) done what you are thinking...ONLY to find that when I went into the fuel tank AFTER replacing the fuel filter...there was so much crap and debris...and the sock was not in good shape at all. I had to remove the new fuel filter due to wanting to blow out the fuel line to make sure it was clean because I was wanting to make sure the system was as good as possible for my customer.....But do as you choose.
I do not need a thermometer either...to tell me if it is hot or cold...but you can not tell me the exact temperature either. Using that philosophy...."guessing" the fuel pressure on a 1982 or a 1984 would make you run in circles for a while....BEEN THERE...DO NOT DO THAT ANY MORE. Engine runs and then begins to "hunt" for a smooth idle ...which was due to low fuel pressure.
I also have a "feel" for things...but I can tell you...that I have been doing this for so long...just like you it appears....I could not tell you the pressure of the fuel system while it is running or being primed when the key is on. I have had engines like yours run at 22 psi...but weren't quite right. My "gut" tells me many things...but I have also come to appreciate my diagnostic tools that can confirm my "gut" or actually prove me wrong and send me down another path of repair to fix the problem.
I am trying to save you TIME...for the long haul...but I guess that you are going to do what you want when you want...which is you choice.
Why GUESS at something... when you can KNOW for a fact..
I wish you the BEST OF LUCK,
DUB
it was running awesome for two days and now it won’t run right, like I said it’s hard to start, won’t respond to acceleration, and holds 22 psi no more or less and drops immediately after shutoff.
any thoughts. Much appreciated
