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I am replacing my 1985 stock motor with a Jegs crate 350/260hp. The motor came out with no problem, but going back in...Pain in the rear. I did a search and found that another member pulled the mounts off the motor and put them back on after motor was in. I guess he put the mounts in the cradles and them bolted them to the block. I didnt think there was enough room to get bolts back on but who knows.On my install the mounts are hanging up on the cradles. I pulled the crank pulley off in the middle of the install because it was binding. Its almost like the motor grew 2 inches longer.
Ran into that one before just be patient with it. Long prybar does wonders. If its not cooperating walk away it will drop right into place when you return
Ran into that one before just be patient with it. Long prybar does wonders. If its not cooperating walk away it will drop right into place when you return
Thanks, I had to leave it last night before I did something stupid.
was the trans still in the car ?did you ceck nothing stucked between trans bell housing and rear of engine?wiring harness come loose and slide between...just trying to figure out,
never pulled an engine but if i was dropping a new crate i would bolt on the mounts before.
was the trans still in the car ?did you ceck nothing stucked between trans bell housing and rear of engine?wiring harness come loose and slide between...just trying to figure out,
never pulled an engine but if i was dropping a new crate i would bolt on the mounts before.
I prepped the firewall before dropping motor. I pulled all wires back and securred them with bungey cords. Your right though, there is a ton of junk there to cause issues. And transmission is still in car. Last night I had the trans and rear of motor lined up but trying to get the right mount seated is a bear. The mount keeps hanging up on the cradle. I tried tilting rear of motor in first but it just wasnt having it. I know I will eventually get it, but I am affraid of destroying something before its all over.
There's a punchline there, but I'm coming up with nothin'.
Trying to remember when I traded engines in my 85 years ago. I remember having a similar problem in not getting the alignment dowels on each side of the engine aligned "just right" to get the engine to slide all the way onto the 700r4. I had the cherry picker in from the side with one of those "load leveler" type deals that let you move the angle of the engine. Took a while, but when the angle was just right, it actually just slid in.
I'm assuming yours is an auto? If so, is the converter fully seated into the transmission? Since the new engine is also a 2 piece rms, you probably re-used the stock flexplate, so that shouldn't be an issue.
Keep us informed of what you discover, and good luck.
Originally Posted by 7d8
I had to leave it last night before I did something stupid.
Smart man. I don't know how many times I've came back in from the barn and told the wife..."things just weren't going right, so I quit for the day"
Coho, yes its the transmission thats giving me a fit. I have it going up and down to try to align the dowels. At one point I even had my wife out in the garage so she could work the hoist...... still not in. 2 nights till 1am. Not my first motor install, but this is the most challenging. Worst part about this is, bolting this beast back up is going to be the hardest part, this should be easy. When I lower the trans, the motor lip sits on top of the bell housing so I lift that up a little and it is level , but just cant get the motor to move into it due to the mounts resting or catching on the cradles. I have heard from a few members leaving the mounts off, but That seems like more trouble to get them bolted back on..... I will give it a look over tonight before messing with it.
Thanks
You have the torque converter already in the trans right?
Yes, i did remove it to replace front seal.I made sure it is seated when reinstalled. Also removed pilot bearing from rear of crank just in case this would be in the way. I guess they put them in in case you are hooking up to a manual. Actually, if the converter wasnt there , it would make it easier. I think the converter is also adding to my troubles.
You may have to turn the flywheel a little to get the holes lined up there too. Lots of holes that have to line up at the same time to drop in smoothly
Yes, i did remove it to replace front seal.I made sure it is seated when reinstalled. Also removed pilot bearing from rear of crank just in case this would be in the way. I guess they put them in in case you are hooking up to a manual. Actually, if the converter wasnt there , it would make it easier. I think the converter is also adding to my troubles.
You've got to spin the converter and push it at the same time. After a few turns, you will feel it seat another 3/8" or so. Then you should be good to go. Wait, why do you have a pilot bearing with a converter?
You've got to spin the converter and push it at the same time. After a few turns, you will feel it seat another 3/8" or so. Then you should be good to go. Wait, why do you have a pilot bearing with a converter?
I purchased crate motor.... It came with the bearing already installed. I removed it.
Even though here in Michigan we are supposed to get a warm spell this week with temps forecasted to be above freezing Friday, I guess if you wanted to buy me a plane ticket I would help you for free............
Assuming that the dowel pins in the new engine are the same size as the old engine, and the flywheel is correct, and the torque converter is installed all tha way in, and the new motor doesn't have a clutch "pilot" bearing installed in it.
You may be able to cut the heads off 2 long bolts and install them as studs in the back of the motor and they will slide right into the transmission. Home Depoit of Lowes has bolts that will work.
I had to remove the motor mounts on my 93 (LT1 6spd, different from yours but still I imagine the motor mount problem is exactly the same as I had). It is a real bear after the motor is in getting the bolts into the block started. There is a flange around the motor mount where it contacts the block that makes it almost impossible to get your hands in there and start the bolt into the block so I ground the flange a little with a grinding wheel right where the bottom bolt goes into the block. That made it possible to get the bolt started. The top two were not a problem. Good luck.
PS; I also had to raise the tranny a little, if you do be careful not to crush the wire bundle that runs over the top of the tranny like I did. I broke a wire running to the starter and it shorted out.
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the great responses. It helps to have as many ideas in tough situations. I did last night use a jack under the oil pan and one under transmission and i am now kinda into the cradles. Not completely ready for bolts. Trans and motor are level, but not totaly together, so I think I am close. Its crazy.... got 2 jacks for motor and trans, 1 jack under frame, 2 stands for safety and the hoist for motor. Working all day then Right out to the garage can be taxing. It should be all in by Saturday. Oh, and besides the rain, should be in the high 70s.