Poly Bushings
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
General consensus on whole car poly bushings? Worth it?
Already have Koni Yellows. Very surprised that the vette doesn't feel more connected... The car does not necessarily inspire confidence while cornering and its not just my car, Ive driven several c4s that all have a somewhat disconnected feel.
Im coming from a 420whp wrx where I swapped entire suspension and all bushings - and a Miata with a swapped suspension.
Already have Koni Yellows. Very surprised that the vette doesn't feel more connected... The car does not necessarily inspire confidence while cornering and its not just my car, Ive driven several c4s that all have a somewhat disconnected feel.
Im coming from a 420whp wrx where I swapped entire suspension and all bushings - and a Miata with a swapped suspension.
Note that the later C4's had a somewhat softer suspension than some of the earlier ones. Ride quality was an issue that GM had to address. But last year I changed out my old FE1 Bilstiens with the Z51 Bilstiens, and even with my old worn out bushings, she feels pretty connected. I'm just waiting to get all pars together and the time as I plan to do all my u-joints and half shafts while everything is apart.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Peabody MA
Poly bushings are yesterdays technology.
People are eliminating bushings altogether with heim joints, delrin, and even bearings (pricey).
Hard to believe, but the ride quality of my 93 improved by eliminating all the rear bushings in favor of heim joints thru banski rear end kit.
No squeaks either
People are eliminating bushings altogether with heim joints, delrin, and even bearings (pricey).
Hard to believe, but the ride quality of my 93 improved by eliminating all the rear bushings in favor of heim joints thru banski rear end kit.
No squeaks either
You're not the first person I've heard say this. I bought the Prothane kit but have yet to install it, I'm going to keep it for certain bushings but plan on buying the Banski heim jointed rear suspension kit and Global West del-a-lum front kit. I've heard nothing but good things about both.
Why do poly when you can save up can get something better?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,682
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
You're not the first person I've heard say this. I bought the Prothane kit but have yet to install it, I'm going to keep it for certain bushings but plan on buying the Banski heim jointed rear suspension kit and Global West del-a-lum front kit. I've heard nothing but good things about both.
Why do poly when you can save up can get something better?
if i have to pay labor either way, im gonna put the good stuff in there
even my swaybar end links are heim joints now.
All this said, there are still some places (like the stablizer u clamp bushings), where poly is the only option.
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 7
From: New Jersey
I have a 96 C4 and have a problem with a kind of knock/rattle when I go over rough road or bumps coming form passenger rear side. I have researched and ran across a post that said it was likely the end link. Is there a way to tell if this is the problem? How difficult is replacing the bushings? Thanks.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 668
Likes: 38
From: Austin TX
I have a couple of questions:
I see that I can purchase the Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings with or without the bracket. Are there issues during installation using the factory brackets?
Also, is there a big difference in the Red or the Black besides the color?
I see that I can purchase the Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings with or without the bracket. Are there issues during installation using the factory brackets?
Also, is there a big difference in the Red or the Black besides the color?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,682
Likes: 753
From: NEwhere Ohio
I went with black. Dont know About the red.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 668
Likes: 38
From: Austin TX
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 1
From: Manchester NH
That being said, you won't see that improvement unless those advancements are integrated into the product and that's what we tried to do: revisit the design, bring in the latest and best rod bodies (turnbuckles), rod ends and boots to protect them.
Keep in mind the rod ends we use have a Teflon lining so there is no metal to metal contact between the ball and the body of the rod end. This helps reduce noise and vibration. That, combined with improved grip gives an overall feeling of a better ride, even on the street, according to many of our customers.
We're also working on a new option that will hopefully address some of the fitment issues that can be had with using our kit with coilovers. A new clamp for the ends that is slightly lower profile. I have a set out with a customer now and hope to get his feedback soon. In fact, if there is anyone out there with our kit that would like to retrofit theirs with these clamps, please contact me and I'll be happy to discuss further.
Below are some images comparing the two. They are CAD images but rest assured that they're accurate and to scale.
Just the two, side by side.
Profile comparison of the two, in blue and red respectively.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
For street car application, I like the look of EM trailing arms better (even if they use jam nuts instead). For those polishing the natural alum of the rear suspension, I prefer silver versus the Banski red. (Thought you might like to know color was a consideration, Tom).
I did the toe-bar's last fall. Might do the trailing arm mod this summer.
Interesting diversity of feedback regarding the various suspension "upgrades"...from poly, to bearings, to poly-graphite, to heim joints, etc...
I did the toe-bar's last fall. Might do the trailing arm mod this summer.
Interesting diversity of feedback regarding the various suspension "upgrades"...from poly, to bearings, to poly-graphite, to heim joints, etc...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 1
From: Manchester NH
That's certainly understood. I've gotten a number of inquiries over the years regarding color options. Like anything else doing things in bulk helps us control cost. Thus, making everything the same color lets us do that.
There are options though. I can always supply un-anodized (natural) aluminum. That's a great option for polishing & clear coating or powder coating a different color or a clear anodize. Unfortunately for me to supply those services usually adds lead time to an order as my machine shop makes everything in batches and then sells me what I need so it's a matter of if he has any that haven't gone to anodize yet.
They're also making a steel option now as well. Again, these can be painted or powder coated if supplied unfinished. I plan on having a standard offering of a nickel finish for those that want a more natural metallic look. In fact I should have a set in a couple of weeks and will try to post some pics when I get them.
Anyone should feel free to contact me before ordering to discuss options.
All great feedback and a great discussion.
There are options though. I can always supply un-anodized (natural) aluminum. That's a great option for polishing & clear coating or powder coating a different color or a clear anodize. Unfortunately for me to supply those services usually adds lead time to an order as my machine shop makes everything in batches and then sells me what I need so it's a matter of if he has any that haven't gone to anodize yet.
They're also making a steel option now as well. Again, these can be painted or powder coated if supplied unfinished. I plan on having a standard offering of a nickel finish for those that want a more natural metallic look. In fact I should have a set in a couple of weeks and will try to post some pics when I get them.
Anyone should feel free to contact me before ordering to discuss options.
All great feedback and a great discussion.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 1
From: Manchester NH
For the front A-arms I had a custom setup that I made as a prototype. It used Delrin & Aluminum bushings that I had made but there's no reason not to use the Global West product as it's high quality. I designed and used a 3 piece upper spindle rod to make assembly easier and it gave me some adjustability for fore and aft placement as well as how much "squeeze" was on the legs of the A-arm.
I did some experiments a few years back and found that with the stock setup their was some amount of bind in the vertical motion of the front knuckle (neither the spring nor shock were attached at the time) because of the squeeze on the upper spindle. I was able to use my setup to adjust the squeeze to zero with little or no fore/aft play and the front knuckle moved as freely as a bird. As long as you haven't introduced any bind in the lower control arm.
Sorry, can't find any pics right now.
I did some experiments a few years back and found that with the stock setup their was some amount of bind in the vertical motion of the front knuckle (neither the spring nor shock were attached at the time) because of the squeeze on the upper spindle. I was able to use my setup to adjust the squeeze to zero with little or no fore/aft play and the front knuckle moved as freely as a bird. As long as you haven't introduced any bind in the lower control arm.
Sorry, can't find any pics right now.