C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Poly Bushings

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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 03:57 PM
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Default Poly Bushings

General consensus on whole car poly bushings? Worth it?

Already have Koni Yellows. Very surprised that the vette doesn't feel more connected... The car does not necessarily inspire confidence while cornering and its not just my car, Ive driven several c4s that all have a somewhat disconnected feel.

Im coming from a 420whp wrx where I swapped entire suspension and all bushings - and a Miata with a swapped suspension.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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What sway bars are you running?i wouldn't expect one thing to make a difference it's the entire package and set up that counts.

-Daniel
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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Running stock sways. The car doesn't really roll in the corners - it just feels like theres slop in the rear - Ive replaced the rear wheel bearings and there isn't anything loose.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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I just redid all of my front and it was worth it. Poly bushings in the control arms and sway bar mounts. Koni yellows, new ball joints and tie rod ends. Went with heim joints for the sway bar end links and z07 takeoff springs. Turned my suspension from a waterbed into a sports car. When I do the rear suspension, it would either be with factory rubber or heim joints. Also depends on what car and suspension yours has from the factory. My bushings were warn up front and pushing out and on top of that I have a 96 with a base suspension, softest sprung corvette ever.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:06 PM
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I had the rear suspension re-bushed with poly, yes they squeak like crazy BUT only when driving around town, on the highway the squeals are barely noticeable.

So really poly is the choice since rubber is not avail, BUT when it matters ie: on those long drives i take i don't notice it so it's not that bad.

If i had to drive long distances around town for more than an hour, i think the for sale sign would go on the window pretty quick!! lol
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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Not all polyurethane bushings are the same. I just replaced most of mine and did a little investigation. I used my durometer and checked on the stiffness.

Energy suspension Yellow 94

Vette Brakes 90

Energy Suspension Red 88

Richard Newton
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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Squeak difference between them?

Originally Posted by rfn026
Not all polyurethane bushings are the same. I just replaced most of mine and did a little investigation. I used my durometer and checked on the stiffness.

Energy suspension Yellow 94

Vette Brakes 90

Energy Suspension Red 88

Richard Newton
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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95 with a base suspension - swapped the bilsteins for koni yellows.

Originally Posted by Shaun R
I just redid all of my front and it was worth it. Poly bushings in the control arms and sway bar mounts. Koni yellows, new ball joints and tie rod ends. Went with heim joints for the sway bar end links and z07 takeoff springs. Turned my suspension from a waterbed into a sports car. When I do the rear suspension, it would either be with factory rubber or heim joints. Also depends on what car and suspension yours has from the factory. My bushings were warn up front and pushing out and on top of that I have a 96 with a base suspension, softest sprung corvette ever.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 07:05 AM
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No real difference in squeaks. The stiffer ones just seem to hold up better. The big problem is the holes become ovalized have a couple of years.

I really like heim joints best. The other alternative is to use Delrin or aluminum bushings. The problem is they have to be custom machined .

Richard Newton
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 09:06 AM
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I was fine with poly on the front a-arm bushing because they just go up and down. You can probably get away with them on the rear camber bar and toe rod as well. I did not want them on the rear trailing arms for binding reasons. Lube them up correctly before install and it should help with the squeaks. If it still makes noise, try cutting the mufflers off.
I would check the wear in your bushing before a total rebuild. Front and rear end links wear quick and are easy to fix. Installing some stiffer springs from an earlier car would do wonders, I picked mine up for 250bux and doubled my spring rate.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaun R
I would check the wear in your bushing before a total rebuild. Front and rear end links wear quick and are easy to fix. Installing some stiffer springs from an earlier car would do wonders, I picked mine up for 250bux and doubled my spring rate.
I have a 96 C4 and have a problem with a kind of knock/rattle when I go over rough road or bumps coming form passenger rear side. I have researched and ran across a post that said it was likely the end link. Is there a way to tell if this is the problem? How difficult is replacing the bushings? Thanks.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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I must be the only guy here whose poly bushings don't squeak. I used ES bushings and the lube they came with. Three seasons now, and they are totally quiet. I added grease nipples to the dog-bone ends, but have not needed to use them yet.
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 01:22 AM
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10 years now.
I shoot some silicone spray on everything in the fall then powerwash in the spring.

And what if it does have a little squeek?
Lay down on the go pedal and crank up the tunes.
It's a Corvette for chriiiiisssake!
Want quite and smooth? Buy a Buick

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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 06:11 AM
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I replaced all my bushings in the rear with prothane over the winter and so far no squeaks, made a big difference, better ride and handling, the stock rubber bushings were rock hard and starting to fall apart, I also replaced all U-Joints at the same time.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Polyurethane bushings are the way to go. Suspension will be firmer and you will never have to do this job ever again. Lube the bushings well with silicone gel and or spray during installation.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 11:34 PM
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I put the ES reds in the rear of my 84. I have several thousand miles on them and no squeaks so far. Mine fit in snugly but not overly tight - slid in by hand with the lube supplied, so it does not seem like there would be a binding issue with the trailing arms.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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Default Sway Bar End Link Replacement

Originally Posted by Shaun R
Front and rear end links wear quick and are easy to fix. Installing some stiffer springs from an earlier car would do wonders, I picked mine up for 250bux and doubled my spring rate.
I have the rattle/knocking sound and pretty sure its those end links. Do you have to take the sway bar off completely to replace the end links or can disconnect and leave in place? Thanks
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ameribrit
I have the rattle/knocking sound and pretty sure its those end links. Do you have to take the sway bar off completely to replace the end links or can disconnect and leave in place? Thanks
Replace the S/B bushings while you are at it. (You'll have to drop the spare tire carrier.)
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 92ragtop
Replace the S/B bushings while you are at it. (You'll have to drop the spare tire carrier.)
Yes, good advise and will do this. Do you have to remove the sway bar completely or can leave attached? I pulled the spare cover off to expose the sway bar and see two attachment points on the frame, but not sure if the whole deal has to be removed to replace the links/bushings.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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Poly bushings are yesterdays technology.

People are eliminating bushings altogether with heim joints, delrin, and even bearings (pricey).

Hard to believe, but the ride quality of my 93 improved by eliminating all the rear bushings in favor of heim joints thru banski rear end kit.

No squeaks either
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