hey.. the fuel lines are leaky somewhere back in the wheel well. We have replacements lines from a donar car. should we "splice in" new sections or replace the hole line? is it a hard job? Also do you guys cut... bend/remove the body flange that the gas line travels over, ya know the spot where the lines stick below the body near the right rear tire???? thanks Jason.. working on an 87 coup

 

I cut the rubber hose off the hard lines and just left the rest on the car. I didn't want to remove the tank to take them off. Then ran new rubber line from the pump to the hard line down along the side.

 

Rubber on a 50psi supply line? I thought that was a no no. That seems like the way to do it, there's not much room back there to work compression fittings.

 

you're really not even supposed to use compression fittings let alone lawn mower fuel line. Bad idea!!!!

 

If you have the CORRECT bent lines...UN-CUT ...THEN INSTALL them as designed...REGARDLESS of what you have to do to get them in.

Because if you don't...you MIGHT regret it.

I have installed rusted out fuel line and installing them as designed is the only way I can do it due to I do Corvette repair for a living and I can be held liable. I WON'T even cut the line and silver solder a sleeve onto it to speed up the install time.

By the way...3/8" fuel hose can handle 50 psi...for the record...or at least what I buy is rated for that pressure...what you buy may be different.

You can do it any way you want. Just do not choose a route that makes you say "WOULDA-COULDA-SHOULDA" when you standing there and your car is on fire....and you "wishing" you HAD spent the time to do it correctly. Pressurized fuel systems are nothing to mess with. The more possible failure points...makes them just that...a failure point that was NOT there originally. A pain in the backside...YES...but it all depends on if you give a "hoot" or not. Some repairs should be taken seriously and "re-inventing the wheel" concept NOT employed. Rigging it due to being on the side of an Interstate in the Mojave is one thing....but to repair it correctly is something completely different when you CAN do it correctly. "Always enough time to do it a second time...but never enough time to do it RIGHT the first time"

And I know many people have done "this-and that" and it still is working...but that does not make it RIGHT. Remember..I am held liable...so changing a design is something I will not/can not do....especially in a fuel system. And trust me...I have seen a bunch of POOR repair attempts.

Best of luck in your decision.

DUB

 

I used 3/8 Gates fuel injection line good for 225psi.

 

HONESTLY..seeing how I do not know how you did it...this response is not directed at you....just from past experiences.

It all depends on how you did it. If you cut the steel line and removed the crimping. I seriously doubt it is safe...especially the high pressure side. Unless you actually installed the bubble at the end of the steel line to prevent the hose from popping off....and at least double clamp it like at ht sending unit

I use that type of hose also...BUT...that is beside the POINT...but I only use it where it is supposed to be used. And there are no serviceable fuel supply/return hoses that are not crimped on that can allow this hose to be installed. I use it on earlier Corvettes that have replaceable rubber hoses...especially at the fuel tank area where it is hard to service. I do not cut a line and stick it on there. And I am sure that when the steel line was cut...and the hose put on it...there was no "bubble" put on the end of the steel line to keep the hose from blowing off...even if you put 10 clamps on it per side so stop if from leaking....which is no exaggeration...I have seen it.

I have repaired so many fuel systems in the past due to someone attempting to repair it...and even it is not leaking at that time...give it time....as what I have experienced.

DUB

 

I'll be replacing some rusted lines on mine on mine tomorrow from just in front of the wheel to the tank using the 3/8" and 5/16" Gates Barricade FI hose. You can put that "bubble" in the line using a double flaring tool. Then secure the line with an FI hose clamp--either crimp or clamp style (NOT wormgear!) No need for double clamping--if done right you will never again have an issue.

 

FSM allows splicing in pressure rated rubber hose. First half of a double flare applied to the metal line - the "bubble" - then hose slipped over and clamped. No more than 4-6 inches of rubber line in any one length, no rubber hose closer than 4 inches to exhaust piping.

 

I didn't use the old steel line on the back of the tank at all. Just routed the line from the pump to the hard line that runs along the side skirt.