Question after an experience today
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Central Texas Texas
Question after an experience today
So I was prepping to get my C4 sold to a gentleman and I wanted to take the car into the local chevy dealership to get an alignment. I got a call back saying they couldn't do the alignment since the front brakes wern't completely locking in. Now I am not a mechanic but I do know enough about a car to at least change the fluids, tires, brakes, throttle body, etc. What do the brakes have to do with an alignment? That completely baffled me as when I think alignment I think suspension/wheels and center of gravity.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
WTF? What does the meaning "Brakes Not Locked in" mean?
It sounds like crap to me... upsell you on a brake job you don't need.
If the brakes weren't locked in, you would not be stopping, from my estimates.
It sounds like crap to me... upsell you on a brake job you don't need.
If the brakes weren't locked in, you would not be stopping, from my estimates.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Central Texas Texas
My thoughts exactly. I kinda want to scan in the work order I got to show yall. That made no sense to me then, and doesn't now. I kind of wanted to take them out with me and let me slam the brakes on hard to show them they work. There is no grabbing, pulling, or anything so yeah.... I'm going to contact another dealership and see what they say.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,973
Likes: 341
From: Adelaide South Australia
dont you guys know about "locking the brakes in" ?
you need to lock in the thingamybob against them so it doesnt gyro out of balance and upset the flux capacitor, otherwise you wont be able to balance it to within a poofteenth of an inch !
you need to lock in the thingamybob against them so it doesnt gyro out of balance and upset the flux capacitor, otherwise you wont be able to balance it to within a poofteenth of an inch !
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,396
Likes: 2,741
My thoughts exactly. I kinda want to scan in the work order I got to show yall. That made no sense to me then, and doesn't now. I kind of wanted to take them out with me and let me slam the brakes on hard to show them they work. There is no grabbing, pulling, or anything so yeah.... I'm going to contact another dealership and see what they say.
I'd say it was a very valid response from the shop and I'd say presents possible issues. There is a tool that is fixed to the vehicle when it's on the alignment pads that "locks/retains steering wheel center" and also "depresses" the brake pedal to hold vehicle stationary. It uses the driver seat for leverage as a rule.
Does the OP have an issue? Maybe.
This is rather generic image of a tool that is used:
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 13, 2014 at 07:15 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 129
Likes: 9
From: North Babylon NY
I'd say it was a very valid response from the shop and I'd say presents possible issues. There is a tool that is fixed to the vehicle when it's on the alignment pads that "locks/retains steering wheel center" and also "depresses" the brake pedal to hold vehicle stationary. It uses the driver seat for leverage as a rule.
Does the OP have an issue? Maybe.
This is rather generic image of a tool that is used:
Does the OP have an issue? Maybe.
This is rather generic image of a tool that is used:
Damn, learn something new every day. I have never seen that tool..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
OK - So now we have see the tool as displayed. But what is the actual problem.
Are the brake pads not grabbing the rotors? Perhaps if the engine is started for a few seconds, the booster could assist in increased brake pad pressure and just tighten the tool up a bit more to keep the pedal depressed further down.
Are the brake pads not grabbing the rotors? Perhaps if the engine is started for a few seconds, the booster could assist in increased brake pad pressure and just tighten the tool up a bit more to keep the pedal depressed further down.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Central Texas Texas
I don't know, I called a few other dealerships today and all of them were baffled as well. Regardless, the brakes work fine from what I have experienced, but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Seeing the tool does help explain it a bit though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 14
Actually to do a Caster Sweep the front brakes have to be locked, its possible you have a messed up capiler, or brake like coming apart internally.
However the most likely cause is the tech didn't have the knowledge or the "*****" to line the car up.
However the most likely cause is the tech didn't have the knowledge or the "*****" to line the car up.
Last edited by larryinalabama; Mar 13, 2014 at 07:50 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Who did the last brake job and do you know if the clips are on the pads.
Call the dealership and see if you can speak to the person who is doing the alignment to get a more detailed explanation of what exactly the problem of effect is.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
This is the only thing that comes to mind when you discribed the situation. If your brakes are working ok, IDK, why they don't want to align it other than they are incompetent. C4's are not bad at all to align, I can align just about any C4 in about 1 hour and do it correctly. Pending stuff is not rusted to itself 1000 times over.
Not like its hard to adjust stuff, in fact its easy.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 325
Likes: 8
From: Princeton Jct. New Jersey
I'd venture that replies #10 & #12 are on the right track. I had my '84 in for alignment last year and after waiting 3 hours the service manager came out of the shop, handed me the keys, and said they couldn't do the alignment -no explaination except some mumbled b.s. that the car was too old and they "didn't have the right specs". When I drove it home it was all over road and extremely difficult to keep under control. Turned out the right rear toe rod had been screwed out of the inner ball socket housing and the wheel was toeing in and out whenever torque was applied or released! The problem was the inner threaded end was welded to the rod with rust and the technician probably didn't keep a wrench on the inner link when trying to adjust the toe-in on that side. That side was only being held on by the rubber boot on the ride home (lucky I didn't wreck the car). Back home I took the assembly off, clamped it in a sturdy vise, used wd40, a torch, a 6ft. breaker bar, and still couldn't budge it. The car handles much better now with the heim jointed assembly I replaced it with (I did the alignment myself 
).
).