Ok the passive key entry light is not on...

 

Just checked the fuses. 26, 40, 42. All are good.
Just noticed that if the passenger door is locked, when I push the button on the FOB the passenger door will unlock.
Placed some lubricant on both door locks. Worked it in by opening and closing doors, opening and closing locks from the inside of the car and also with the key on the outside of car. It seams like it wants to activate but it just will not. Going to disconnect battery and see if a reset helps. Any other suggestions here?

Battery reset did nothing...

 

I assume that when the problem started not only did the doors not unlock, but you did not hear the horn anymore….true?

It does not look like the PKE light is lit from the picture. I think that is what should be focused on.

If you cycle from inside the car (key out of ignition), you will then have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to ON to see if you made any progress. Then repeat the process if need be.

Another thing to try is go into programming mode but don’t go all the way. Just see if at some time the PKE light does something. You can abort the programming at any time be just taking the key out of the ignition.

 

Ok just tried cycling. Still no PKE in Dic.

Reprogrammed my FOB. Same effect as before. Car does not activate PKE. Does see my FOB because the interior lights come on and initial noise to move locks happens but locks do not slide open and close.

Still no "Passive Keyless Entry" in Dic.

 

My condition does sound a lot like this. I sprayed the door locks with a oil, even though the did not seam hard. Worked the spray in by opening and closing locks. If the passenger door is locked, pressing the tab on the FOB will open it.
Still does not activate PKE.

 

I'm thinking at this point, it is your PKE reciever.

 

I tried to simulate a condition where I have the door open, closed, locked with key, 1/2 locked and other combinations to see if I could not cycle the system on and off when I wanted to. I could not simulate the problem for it always worked. I did hear the locks cycle hard when I turned it on or off and the PKE light followed the condition.

Retxpres: If you say that you re-programmed the FOB, that means you would have had to see the PKE light come on and also flash.
If that is so, there may be hope of finding a problem although I don't know what the answer might be at this time.

 

Pcolt94 wrote...
"Retxpres: If you say that you re-programmed the FOB, that means you would have had to see the PKE light come on and also flash.
If that is so, there may be hope of finding a problem although I don't know what the answer might be at this time."

My response...
When I programmed my FOB the light did come and it also Flashed. I really do not want to tear apart my dash. Let there be hope for a simple fix.

Note:
When push door tab on the FOB, there is that faint click click noise only on the passenger door and slight movement of lock, and the interior lights come on. Locks do not slide open and close. No noise or action on the drivers side.
If the doors are locked and I press the door tab on the FOB, the passenger door will unlock. The driver side does not.

 

Okay, so when you programmed the fob, the PKE light was flashing, so it was in program mode. When you brought the fob into range, it should have turned to a continuous light, and no longer flashing, as long as the fob was in range, did this happen?

If it kept flashing, then the reciever did not store the fob. If that's the case, I would try programming the fob again. Although, since it operates the hatch and the passenger door with the buttons, as it should, I would think the fob is programmed.

Try this as well, although the FSM calls for this check if the fob won't unlock the pass door or the hatch. Put the key in the ignition in the off position. Make sure your window is down and the fob is out of range. Lock and close the doors. The doors should immediately unlock, if they do than your receiver is working.

If they do not unlock, then it is time to put the system in diagnostic mode. This is done by putting the key in the ignition turn to 'lock'. then ground terminals 8 and 5 on the diagnostic link connector. Shake the transmitter. The diagnostic mode will flash DTC's.

DTC 12= receiver memory bad, need a new module
13= transmitter not in range,
14= non-valid transmitter received
15= valid transmitter received
16=passenger door button depressed
17=hatch button depressed

 

When I programmed the fob the PKE was flashing and when I brought the fob in range the PKE did go solid. So the the fob is programming correctly. My hatch will open with the fob and also open the passenger door if locked.

I just put the key in the ignition with the window down. Fob out of range. Locked the door and it stayed locked. Opened the lock and it stayed open.

I need better detailed instructions on how to do diagnostic mode. "ground 8 and 5 on the diagnostic link connector" also "turn to lock".

 

Alright, what we're checking here is system functionality or the lock out function which is run by the PKE receiver. Just to make sure, essentially what you are trying to do is lock the keys in the car. With the key in the ignition and the doors locked, once you close the door, the doors should automatically unlock. It should do this whether PKE is enabled or not.

Grounding the 8 and 5 is, I believe, putting a jumper wire on the #8 and the #5 terminal on the diagnostic port. Honestly, this part of the troubleshoot is new territory for me. When it says that the DIC will flash DTC's, I'm guessing that the PKE light will flash a certain # of times, 12,13,14, etc, although it may actually flash a number, which would be nice, on the digital display. (lock, is simply translated as the 'on' position.

What we have already established is that your door locks and motors are working. Your fob is programmed to receiver. The receiver reads the fob. The fob will open the hatch and the passenger door via the buttons as it should. Ialso assume that you replaced the weak battery in your second fob, and attempted to enable the system with it as well, getting the same result. This would eliminate a faulty fob as the issue.

What is strange, is that it seems like all the components are working, you just can't enable the PKE system. Do you have any door switch issues? Door ajar light on? Anything else strange going on?

I know this is a silly question, so take no offense, but just to be sure I'm going to ask it. When you are attempting to enable the system, all the doors are closed, and the key is not in the ignition?

The rest of the diagnostic in the manual goes into removing the top of the I/P and checking for power and voltages, etc.

 

Just tried locking my key in the car with no fob. key in ignition. Driver door opened as the door closed. Passenger door remained lock.

Just bought a new battery for my second fob. Programmed the second fob and now both fobs do the same thing.

Still will not activate PKE. Is there any other way to activate the PKE?

 

1994 Owners Manual, (Part 2 Features & Controls - Door Locks - Page 39)

Quote:
PKE Settings
You can use the system for both doors or just the driver’s door, or you can turn the system off.
To change door settings:
1. Put the ignition key in the ignition, but don’t turn it on.
2. Press “DOOR” on the transmitter until the door locks cycle (about two seconds).

To turn the system off:
1. Take the ignition key out of the ignition.
2. Press “DOOR’ on the transmitter until the door locks cycle (about two seconds).

To turn the system back on, just repeat the steps.

Retxpres, I just went through exactly what your dealing with. This is how I made sure the system was on. Then I followed the programming instructions that came with the remote. However, I slightly screwed up one of the steps and the result was just like yours. My remote would unluck the passengers door and pop the hatch. Went back through programming again ( a little slower ) and wala! works like a champ. Hope this helps !

 

Domestic, do you by chance remember which step it was that you did incorrectly, long shot, but it might help.

My '96 FSM doesn't really mention anything about a seperate signal for the buttons on the fob, and the actual PKE activation. Although, it does state that the fob buttons go through the PKE, they do operate independently of the PKE, i.o.w. you can open the hatch and unlock the passenger door even if the PKE feature is off. Perhaps it could be something as simple as reprogramming the fob.

So let's back up. This may be redundant as it seems you know how to program the fob, but at this point why not review.

First, is the radio off?

To enter program mode:
1. All transmitters out of range
2. Ignition to the 'run' position
3. Trip/odo button is pushed and released
4. Trip/odo button is pushed and held for 5 seconds
5. Within 5 seconds, push and hold the fuel info button for 10 seconds
* The passive keyless entry telltale lamp will come on continuously.
6. Ignition to the 'lock' position, key remaining in the ignition.
* the passive keyless entry telltale light will now begin flashing.

Now to program:
Bring the first transmitter into range. The light should stop flashing and should illuminate continuously. At this point the code for the transmitter is stored. If you want to program a second transmitter, move the first out of range, the light will resume flashing. Now bring the second transmitter into range, the light should go solid and this code is stored.

To exit programming mode:
The programming mode will be cancelled if any of these conditions are met;
* the key is removed from the ignition
*The key is turned to the on position
* The PKE system has been in program mode for longer than two minutes.

This is pretty much verbatum from the FSM. Is it possible that something here could have been missed?

If not, then it pretty much leaves removing panels, checking for loose grounds or connections, power voltages and such.

The only other thing I could think of is the global reset, which is disconnecting the battery terminals and touching them together, kind of a reboot I believe.

But I'm still thinking that your receiver may be bad. The button functions will work when the receiver is in sleep mode, it just seems it doesn't want to 'wake up'. But then, if you can program a fob, I would think it's awake.

I take it both of your 'door ajar' switches are operating properly. That's an easy check, as when you open either door the courtesy lights will come on.

Another thought is interference, like a garage door opener, any wireless devices, phone, anything like that near the car?

This is like one of those brain teasers I just can't put down.

 

First I apriciate that you have all been very helpful and patient trying to figure this out. I will be out of town for the weekend. Will continue on Monday PM. Do not want all to think I disappeared. I am starting to lose hope that it is a simple fix. My car is in excellent shape and would like to keep her 100% if possible. Thanks...

 

You have a good weekend. It will all workout, even if it is something like needing a new module, I dont think taking the dash cover is really too big of deal, at least from what I've been reading in the FSM. It doesn't look like the whole dash to come apart to get to it or anything like that.

I haven't had the use of my PKE in some time, but I'm pretty sure it's due to a faulty door ajar switch. But your thread has gotten me motivated to get it done, perhaps this weekend when I attack a plug change.

 

OK Guys pretty sure we have this. Just used my car as the test dummy. Retxpres, your PKE is turned off ( providing your fob is programmed ) these are the steps for that came with my fob & worked for me :

1. Place transmitter 10 feet or more away from the car.
2. Turn ignition key to ON position.
3. Push the TRIP/ODO button on the Drivers Information Center ( DIC ) twice.
4. WITHIN 5 SECONDS, push and HOLD the fuel/info button on the DIC until the PKE light
on the DIC stays on.
5. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, BUT LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. The PK
light will come on and begin flashing.
6. Bring your tranmitter into range ( 3-5' ) from car. When the system recognizes the
transmitter, the PKE light will stay on.
7. To program an optional transmitter , move the newly programmed (1st one) out of
range and repeat step 6 with the 2nd transmitter.
8. Remove the key from the ignition or turn the ignition to ON. The transmitter(s) are
now programmed to the vehicle.

Not trying to beat a dead horse but, If you follow the PKE able/disable intructions above
(my 1st post) I'm pretty sure you will solve your problem.

LT4, although my PKE able/disable instructions are a little different than yours, the rest
of your post is spot on. As far as the step I screwed up I think it had to do with the key
in/ keyout part of the PKE activation. Good news for Retxpres is IMHO theres about a 99.999999% chance that this is an easy fix. Not sure if my OCD dissorder was my problem
or my solution. LOL !

 

Those aren't able/disable instructions. They are for programming a fob to the car. Able/disable (turn on/off) is what he can't do. His are already programmed to the car or they wouldn't unlock the pass. door and hatch. It would be great if doing this again (I think he says he has already done it two or three times) would fix the problem, but I doubt it. What did you mean about using your car as the test dummy? Where you able to replicate his symptoms?

 

It's hard to believe that the 2 FOBs are not programmed correctly. They are, or they are not. If there is some action and the hatch pops open, the PKE receiver is recognizing the FOB. I would look elsewhere for a problem and not the programming.

I just activated and de-activated my PKE many times with my driver's door open, passenger door open, locked and unlocked, hatch open, key in door, and key turned. There was no configuration (again) that I tried that did not work. It seemed in the testing I did, the receiver did not care about anything, it always cycled the system on and off.

Not saying it is impossible, but I just have not found a configuration that a driver could do to block the receiver from activating.

IF there is an electrical problem external from the receiver, I have not figured out what might do that. But just to do it again, check out the electric locks and motors as triggered from the switches on the doors.

 

You are correct Mark I was referring to my 1st post for PKE on and off.
1994 Owners Manual, (Part 2 Features & Controls - Door Locks - Page 39)

Quote:
PKE Settings
You can use the system for both doors or just the driver’s door, or you can turn the system off.
To change door settings:
1. Put the ignition key in the ignition, but don’t turn it on.
2. Press “DOOR” on the transmitter until the door locks cycle (about two seconds).

To turn the system off:
1. Take the ignition key out of the ignition.
2. Press “DOOR’ on the transmitter until the door locks cycle (about two seconds).

To turn the system back on, just repeat the steps.

I beleive Retxpres just needs to turn the PKE on (the fobs are probably OK ) reason is
my test dummy (my 1994 coupe). Standing beside the car keys and fob in hand, I push
and hold the door button (hear a little noise and then locks cycle) now my PKE is
off but, as Retxpres said if my passengers door was locked I can push the door button on
the fob and unlock the passengers door or push the hatch button and pop the hatch.
Retexpres said earlier he saw the PKE light flash and stay on, so his receiver should be OK,
right ?. I think for whatever reason when I programmed my fob the system was already
off, so thats why it had the same symptoms as Retexpres's. I beleive when I followed Marks PKE on/off instructions thats when everthing started working right.