If your current injectors and FPR are working properly changing injectors will give you no performance increase.

 

I have a stock radiator and making somewhere around 400RWHP.

 

^This is the point that I was trying to make. Properly working, the stock radiator should easily handle the OP's current and proposed mods.

 

I just answered the radiator question, because he ask about additional cooling. Again, my suggestion was based on personal experience only.
FWIW I would overheat on a hot August day going 70 mph in 95 degree heat. Now this was with 4.09 gears and a automatic. The radiator was the origional, and I feel sure, based on others experience, that a new stock radiator would have cooled the motor. Mine was clean on the outside, but I suspect it was corroded inside and not conducting heat well or stopped up. At that time I was making 362 rwhp. My new motor, is higher compression, bigger, etc. and makes 462 rwhp.
I needed a new radiator, a champion 3 core was a little less then $200.00 shipped to my house. I may have saved a little with a stock radiator, but Im happy.

 

In that case, it makes sense to up grade. If you need to replace a radiator, I wouldn't advocate stock...I'd upgrade too.

 

STL94LT!:
"If your current injectors and FPR are working properly changing injectors will give you no performance increase. "

Well that is the main question isn't it? 18 year old technology injectors that were made for fuel without alcohol. Are they working correctly? Well even if they all are firing, which you really don't know for sure, they have seats and seals that are over 18 years old and have fired millions of times. So I would think replacing even functioning 18 year old injectors with 18 year newer technology that is alcohol tolerant with better spray patterns and quicker valves should give you some improvement.

My 18 year old FPR still worked but it was maxed out at 38 psi and the book calls for 45 psi. I bought two new ones and both were around 38 psi so I finally broke down and bought an adjustable one. I set this for slightly more than the GM recommended pressure and now I have my fuel delivery system set to peak performance using 2014 technology.

Of course none of that makes a difference if the O2 sensors are all carbon coated after 18 years of being in the exhaust and are feeding back bad fuel mixture info so maybe you should replace those as well. Now you have your 18 year old car all decked out with a 2014 fuel system. Clean your MAF and the whole thing is actually better than when it was new. The OP was looking for simple bang for bucks and I recommend changing these simple items for any car over 50k miles.

 

Claiming a newer injector designed to run on E85 is better for a vehicle that won't run on E85 is a complete BS sales pitch without any basis of honest justification other than to get money from someones wallet. If your injectors operate correctly they should never be changed based on this false claim. Changing a bad regulator diaphragm that is leaking is fine, but to throw away money because someone claims a bad diaphragm when it's the spring that creates pressure is another false claim.
No need to replace parts that operate correctly ever to line the pocket of a salesman.

 

Mr ******, While I appreciate frugality with one's resources, in Klyde's defense, I did some research and, if FIC's videos are to be believed, I offer the following which is a video comparing stock injectors with new Bosch III's for LTi's...

 

No different than the cow magnet claims of the late 70's that people still buy. They say it will improve gas mileage up to 25%.

http://amtmag.com/html/magneticfuelsaver.htm

Buy a pet rock, or a mood ring, but type II Bosch injectors are still being sold, and E10 scare is just hype. This isn't about saving money, but about being honest.
I recommend people to buy from FIC a lot for the type 3's because they're a good deal. The stainless internals used are better for E85, but E10 has ZERO documented adverse affect.

 

http://home.insightbb.com/~nathan.pl...rformance.html

This is good read about common mods and what does and does not work.

Hoenstly, after changing the rockers and springs, anything else is going to need to crack open the motor. Porting heads would improve furhther upon your rocker swap.

The exhaust on these engines already flow pretty well, so short of long tube headers, any small change is really just going to change the sound more than anything.

I'd forget the airfoil, and as far as the intake, just take the outer shield off, and whala, you have a cut lid.

However, being a '96 and an OBDII car, you should be able find someone to give you a nice dynotune which may unleash a few ponies.

Oh, and why a short shifter for an automatic?

 

Before you start beating up on poor Mr. ****** maybe you should read this thread especially post number 12 -
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...atch-this.html You have Multec 2 injectors.

Research is good but incomplete research is useless. You can test them yourself or send to FIC for cleaning and testing. As for the Fuel pressure regulator, there I disagree with Mr. ******. Too many old regulators rip their diaphragm and leak fuel into the vacuum line. Engine fires have resulted so replacement should be done as a maintenance item. Yours, if original, is overdue.

As for mods, I have spent the last two years slowly going through my car for maintenance and repairs. It runs better now than when I purchased it and probably better than it has since it left the showroom. A lot of good info has been given in this thread but some of the best was to go through the suspension, brakes, engine, drivetrain and electrics for maintenance and repairs. Among other things I replaced worn out bushings, coolant hoses, spark plug wires, spark plugs (prior owner put in gimmicky Bosch plus 4 plugs - didn't work well), brake hoses (replaced with stainless). I also have done some upgrades such as the stereo and speakers and rear camber adjustment struts.

P.S. - I replaced the injectors in my '96 because I was having problems with them and I purchased the Bosch III from Jon at FIC. Otherwise I would still be using them and have spent my money elsewhere.

 

GM eventually gave up on the Rochester Multecs and went back to Bosch. IMHumbleO there are the standard too measure all others.
I must have gotten lucky, because my regulator diaphragm is 29 years old and still going strong. My greatest opposition to this change is pressure. GM used many different pressures over the years, so it is very important to know your rail pressure, so that when replaced it can be restored. Even if it means an adjustable cap.
I'd place more emphasis on diagnostic tools prior to performance parts, but testosterone prevails over wisdom in most cases. Fuel pressure gauge, scanner should be as important as any service.

 

Not to drive this any further down but. Nowhere did I state anything about E85. When my car was made they had no alcohol mixed in the gas. Now they do. The original seals were not made for it. I did state that the 18 year old unit has fired millions of times and the seats were most likely worn. Also on my 96' the FPR is a disposable unit. You can not replace the diaphragm or the spring. All you do is replace it. I stated mine was below the recommended pressure. I stated that I tried two different new units and both of those were low PSI, therefore I bought an adjustable one so I could set it for the correct pressure. This is not BS. I did not try to sell him anything like snake oil. I told him my personal experience and how it improved my own vehicle. I told him where to get the best deal.That's what this site is all about, sharing personal experiences and information. I find it insulting to be labeled as a snake oil salesman by someone putting words I've not said into my mouth. Regardless of the rhetoric I stand by the words I actually stated.

 

I don't have a lot of luck. Murphy's Law has ruled the majority of my life. As a result, I have become more cautious about inspection and maintenance of my home, cars and motorcycles along with my health. With that in mind, I say good luck to you.

 

This is where the misinformation and deception begins. Ethanol, or E10 use started in the late 70's, and was first mandated by 1990 for Winter blends. It is considered safe in such low concentrations.
I'm not trying to be for, or against it's use, but rather clear up the misinformation over this injector issue. There's millions of cars running on it that don't need type 3 injectors. Cars made after 2001 are good for E15.

http://www.fuel-testers.com/ethanol_fuel_history.html

I realize you're just repeating what your were told, and I'm not faulting you for this, but too change injectors based solely on E10 is not required.

 

Actually, it has more to do with replacing something that may be inferior. Outsourcing has creating big quality issues in my life. If I have an American made part I want to keep it as long as I can. I too keep a close eye on things, and service up to date. Maybe LT1 regulators are required to be replaced, but I've never seen this as a GM requirement for TPI cars?

I just took back 6 fluorescent bulbs out of 8 I bought 70 days ago at Home Depot. What causes foreign made products to be of such low quality? I won't buy any replacement that isn't AC Delco, or researching it first.

 

Why does everything response turn into a "pissing contest" with you? You don't want to replace it, okay. But don't tell me what it "actually" has to do with it. I do want I want with my cars - emphasis on "my". If you don't agree that is perfectly fine with me. But stop correcting and educating me. I try to be courteous and respectful but sometimes........

 

My apologies sir, I thought it was a cordial discussion?

 

Forget about it, I must be getting too cranky. Maybe I need better meds. Sorry if I offended. Off to bed.

 

Interesting, your position in this thread, vs. the short stroke LT1 thread. Nice to see the GOOD advice being given out here!