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I moved along a bit this morning. Next I’ll spend some time cleaning up the gack. Reassemble in a week or so. Took a little over 2 hours to get to this point. Not nearly as difficult as I had feared it may be.
Good luck with the project. Those blocks under the rear wheels have a lot less strength when oriented that way. Designed to be vertical. Just a thought.
Good luck with the project. Those blocks under the rear wheels have a lot less strength when oriented that way. Designed to be vertical. Just a thought.
If the balancer came right off, that makes it a whole lot easier.
Nice clean engine.
Two foot of 2" x 4" and a 4 lb persuader. A couple of firm thuds and off it came. I can only imagine if it had heavy surface rust it could be a real bear.
This is what I’m looking at. Any suggestions as to best place for black box and for running harness to coil packs? Also anyone mess with the seal or leave it be? If needs to be changed any suggestions as to best method?
You have it apart this far, my suggestion is to remove the timing cover and replace the opti spark drive seal, the water pump drive seal, the crank seal and the timing cover gasket. It will take a little extra time that will save you additional headaches down the road. I replaced all of those seals on my 93 and 94 LT1 Z28's a few years back. Time and money well spent.
You have it apart this far, my suggestion is to remove the timing cover and replace the opti spark drive seal, the water pump drive seal, the crank seal and the timing cover gasket. It will take a little extra time that will save you additional headaches down the road. I replaced all of those seals on my 93 and 94 LT1 Z28's a few years back. Time and money well spent.
The crank seal is bone dry. How about the two little guys pictured. Does the timing cover need to come off to change them out? Also in order to remove timing cover I assume the crank end has to be removed? How does the crank piece come off the end? Is a puller needed? Thanks for the suggestion.
Oh yea the car has 39,000 miles if that plays into the decision making and how much further I go in?
While as general rule, sure now would be a good time to replace those seals and gaskets. However, at 39K and if it is not leaking now, and judging from what I can see in the pics, they don't appear to be, I wouldn't worry about it. You know, the old, "If it ain't broke...".
But I am curious about the LTCC conversion. I've got about 4x the miles you do and still running the factory installed opti. I'm sure it can't last forever. And when the time comes, I will be needing to replace some seals. lol
While as general rule, sure now would be a good time to replace those seals and gaskets. However, at 39K and if it is not leaking now, and judging from what I can see in the pics, they don't appear to be, I wouldn't worry about it. You know, the old, "If it ain't broke...".
But I am curious about the LTCC conversion. I've got about 4x the miles you do and still running the factory installed opti. I'm sure it can't last forever. And when the time comes, I will be needing to replace some seals. lol
You know you're right? While I'm in there maybe I should change them all? I may need a puller to do the job? I really have all the time I need, I'm in no rush what so ever. I'll dig a little deeper and find the appropriate process to service them. If I do it I'll post the pics.
I finally finished installing my LTCC kit. The car started right up and drove fine. BUT the tachometer is not working and the ASR light is on. I attached a schematic showing how I wired the white and pink wires so you can see how I installed it. During this installation I heard the words tach filter, is this something I need to get my tachometer working and to get the ASR light
In your diagram you have one White wire form the LTCC box going to the input
of the tach filter.
You need to bypass the tach filter.
Remove the White wire you installed at the Tach filter. Find the other White wire from the Tach filter which is the output of the filter. Cut the wire. Now connect the White wire from the LTCC box to the wire you cut. (End going back to the Dash Cluster Tachometer).
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Jul 15, 2014 at 03:57 PM.
In your diagram you have one White wire form the LTCC box going to the input
of the tach filter.
You need to bypass the tach filter.
Remove the White wire you installed at the Tach filter. Find the other White wire from the Tach filter which is the output of the filter. Cut the wire. Now connect the White wire from the LTCC box to the wire you cut. (End going back to the Dash Cluster Tachometer).
Hey thanks for the response. As you can see I have one white wire from the 4 wire connector that used to plug into the coil module and one white wire from the gray 2 wire plug that used to plug into the coil connected to the LTCC box's white wire. These were instructions given to me as you see in my diagram.
What I don't understand is where is the tach filter located on the car? Was it part of the stock coil module/coil assembly? Or is somewhere else?
I follow what you are saying, I just don't know where to locate the tach filter and the white wire exiting it?
Thanks Glenno
What I don't understand is where is the tach filter located on the car? Was it part of the stock coil module/coil assembly? Or is somewhere else?
I follow what you are saying, I just don't know where to locate the tach filter and the white wire exiting it?
Thanks Glenno
I don't have a 92 manual. The diagram is for a 93.
The diagram shows where the tach filter plugs into the harness.
The tach filter has 2 White wires. An input and an Output.
It also has a Black Ground wire. Find the Black ground wire which
is shown in the diagram and follow the wire to the tach filter.
Location: RH front of engine taped in Engine harness.
'92 should be the same - it's the same image in a '92 FSM. It's a very long pigtail on the filter. It's entirely possible that it's also taped to or into the harness. It's a very compact filter, don't expect a conventional earlier type capacitor.
Here's a rather old post with a snapshot of what to expect and he mentions near coil connector: