Low level in fluid reservoir( almost empty) filled to line pedal still has no resistance. I was told I did not have to "bleed" the slave valve . This is a 1994 six-speed standard transmission. I backed car out of garage after putting it in reverse- let car run in neutral to warm up but when pushed in clutch pedal -no resistance . When car is not running can shift thru gears . Any ideas what the problem can be ? Appreciate all answers.

 

Assuming the master reservoir is full, pump the clutch pedal a half dozen times then try and put it into gear with the motor running. If it works now then it's likely air in the system. Had that scenario with mine last year and that's what it was.

 

[QUOTE=hcbph;1586643812]Assuming the master reservoir is full, pump the clutch pedal a half dozen times then try and put it into gear with the motor running. If it works now then it's likely air in the system. Had that scenario with mine last year and that's .............Thanks for the input, hcbph, but no amount of pumping the clutch pedal puts any "pressure" on the pedal. Yes reservoir is full , a mechanic suggested that I bleed it at the cylinder that is under the reservoir - but that does not make sense to me I would think to bleed it at the lowest/ farthest point like I did as a teenager when I use to bleed brakes (i.e. rear brake cylinders) my eyesight is poor but if I knew for sure where to bleed this I could get it done. My only other option is to have it towed to a tranny shop ( I live in rural PA. in the Allegheny National Forest) and put my trust in some stranger. Thanks for any further input you can give

 

You can do the fill and pump several times to see if you can achieve some relative clutch pressure. It might help if you remove the "moisture barrier" in the cap. Pump several times slowly and continue to top off the master. Once you have sufficient clutch pedal you can then do a bleed at the slave cylinder. There is a bleeder at the cylinder. People use different procedures for this. Many will probably come along to explain theirs.

 

THANKS WVZR1, I did bleed at the fitting at the reservoir and got great pedal started the car went into gear so smoothly and easily backed the car out on such a beautiful day let it run 10 mins. and when I went to put it into gear "flat pedal" no back pressure . I did find the bleed at the slave cylinder next to the tranny will try that next as my help got a "honeydo call" and had to go (newely married) almost couldn't believe how great the clutch did work so smoothly better that when I first purchased it 9 yrs.ago. Again sincere thanks .

 

If your reservoir was empty then the question is where has the fluid gone?

Sounds like you're due for new seal kits in both the slave & master cylinders. Worn seals in the slave will cause fluid to escape (you should have a wet and messy slave cyl ) and worn seals in the master will prevent building much or any pedal pressure assuming the system is bleed completely. If you can build pressure after bleeding but keep loosing it then, other than a leaking transfer pipe, shot seals are all that is left.

 

My passenger side carpet! Under the floor mat, was SOAKED with the fluid! The clutch was slipping anyway, from what I thought what the rear main seal leaking... so I was going into the tyranny job anyway. When I let the clutch out in gear, I could just dump it and the car would drive as if a ghost were letting the clutch out slowly! Typical slipping clutch. The fluid was low, but filling it didn't resolve anything. I had just bought the car 2 weeks prior so didn't have much history other than the BS one the seller told me about the previous buyer romping on the car and that's when and why it started slipping.
Anywho, the seals were bad and squirting and dripping fluid made its way down the hump and all into the carpet on the passenger side! soaked like you could run your finger tips down the carpet and it would puddle up. 1/2 a roll of shop towels to soak it up.
I have a 93 LT1 6 spd, and made the mistake of ordering the clutch kit from Rock Auto, (where I found the best price $180 approx. For a kit with a standard flywheel) prematurely. Come to find out, late production models had a "dual mass flywheel" set up. Sooooo you guessed it, had to ship it all back and reorder the right clutch kit which was only like $20 bucks more..but I was soo pissed and wanted my car back so bad I spent $40 more rush shipping it. It's a great kit that comes with everything you need to fix your trouble, assuming that it's not your lines or master that's leaking, (not by the sounds of what you've written). The kit comes with all the stuff to replace wear parts (which I bet is where yours is leaking like mi e, but you can't see them until you pull the tranny out.) Good luck with the upper bell housing bolts...LONG extensions and flex sockets and patience my friend..
If I were you while you're in there replacing the gaskets and seals, you might as well for $200 buy the whole kit and for another $15 definitely replace the rear main seal as well. Hope it all works out for you! And I hope your fluid hit the ground and not your floor! Lol.

 

Come to find out, my carpets are soaked from antifreeze leaking from a heater hose. Yes, my windshield fogs up, even after I shut the car off.

 

Sounds like your heater core is leaking.

 

Yes you're right. It is the heater core. Unfortunately. ..