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As I become familiar with my 88 l98 auto...Ive concluded the following....at 1/8 tank it stumbles due to fuel slosh in the rank....it shifts gears around 2.4k rmps and has a long first gear.....running hot (180 to 200)is a normal phenomenon compared to other chevys.... the turn radius is very short makes for interesting maneuvers out of a parking lot....So heres my next question books seem to say tps says to be set at .54 to .56 I've read for performance .60 can be used any concensus? Timing wise books say 6 btdc pros and cons of increasing or lowering setting for fuel economy? Thanks
As I become familiar with my 88 l98 auto...Ive concluded the following....at 1/8 tank it stumbles due to fuel slosh in the rank....it shifts gears around 2.4k rmps and has a long first gear.....running hot (180 to 200)is a normal phenomenon compared to other chevys.... the turn radius is very short makes for interesting maneuvers out of a parking lot....So heres my next question books seem to say tps says to be set at .54 to .56 I've read for performance .60 can be used any concensus? Timing wise books say 6 btdc pros and cons of increasing or lowering setting for fuel economy? Thanks
180-200 is not hot at all. That's cool compared to what these cars run at (230).
I would set it to 0.54 volts. I like that better than the others that I've tried because all they do is lead to other problems.
I would go as far as 10* base timing, but you may be able to sneak out to 12*. I'd watch your scan tool at 12* and watch for knock counts.
Advancing timing would probably increase your gas mileage, and it'll have a little more spunk and more throttle response. After you advance it you wont want to go back to 6*.
.54 volts for the TPS is standard. If your going to race the car, then push it up to .60. It will respond to the throttle a little faster.
I would stay with the 6 degrees for economy. It get the most performance out of the car then push it up toward the 10 degrees. My 85 liked 10 degrees for base timing.
Okay so it seems for fuel economy I'm good at the stock settings of 6tdc initial timing. Increasing to .60 tps is good for response but how about mpg? Also my distributor is not square to the plenum sort of twisted to the right should it be straight in relation to the plenum at stock timing?
I ran my prior '88 frequently at the strip and got 30-31mph highway.
It had TPS advanced to ~.63Vdc at base idle (450rpm), base timing 8-10deg BTDC, 160 deg T-stat with TB coolant bypass.
Also, don't forget to toss that "frisbee" from the front of your WP pulley.
BTW, I usually arrived at the strip with 1/4-1/3 tank of fuel; on a "good night" I had to limp to the nearest service station as the fuel gauge was near the "2-bar" point...
The TPS reacts similar to an accelerator pump on a carb. At .60 it will add just a little bit more fuel at tip in, so not really a mileage concern here. Timing should always be at 6 degrees, because in the timing tables it goes as high as 32 plus initial of 6 for 38. While 10 degrees initial you may think you're helping it, you are really going slower. Distributor orientation makes absolutely no difference if the vehicle can be timed other than presentation, or personal preference. It may key into the cam at any tooth as long as you're orientated the oil pump shaft appropriately. Feel free to move it anywhere you choose as long as initial timing is set correctly.
The TPS reacts similar to an accelerator pump on a carb. At .60 it will add just a little bit more fuel at tip in, so not really a mileage concern here. Timing should always be at 6 degrees, because in the timing tables it goes as high as 32 plus initial of 6 for 38. While 10 degrees initial you may think you're helping it, you are really going slower. Distributor orientation makes absolutely no difference if the vehicle can be timed other than presentation, or personal preference. It may key into the cam at any tooth as long as you're orientated the oil pump shaft appropriately. Feel free to move it anywhere you choose as long as initial timing is set correctly.
Thank you that makes alot of sense. I just realized that the decreased mpg might actually be due to my having 22 lbs injectors.
How do you up the TPS voltage??? Can a tuner shop do that when I get dyno tuned? It seems that my throttle can be a touch delayed or slow to react... a touch more than I'd expect on a tuned port fuel injected car.
Interesting. Would that cure the slightly delayed throttle response that I feel sometimes? Or do you think my throttle blades/intake are gummed up from sitting for a year w/ 1+yr old gas in it?
What injectors do you have. Some 88's were programmed at 23 lbs, so if you have Bosch yellows it could be lean.
I purchased these during my rebuild. They did not come stock with the car but they were 22lbs advertised Bosch design II 4 hole multi spray yellow version. But if that is the case if it were 23 and running lean how would timing advance help and what would then be the appropriate setting?
Last edited by Supahone; Apr 27, 2014 at 09:04 PM.
I purchased these during my rebuild. They did not come stock with the car but they were 22lbs advertised Bosch multi spray version. But if that is the case if it were 23 and running lean how would timing advance help and what would then be the appropriate setting?
If you have Bosch yellows 280-155-700 get a scanner and check your BLM counts. If you're running lean with counts well above 140 you're getting a lean bog at off idle, or tip in. I've helped a few lower the flowrate in their programming to 20 lbs and it eliminates this problem. if you have a tuner he can do it for you. Timing will not solve this, if in fact you're lean.
If you have Bosch yellows 280-155-700 get a scanner and check your BLM counts. If you're running lean with counts well above 140 you're getting a lean bog at off idle, or tip in. I've helped a few lower the flowrate in their programming to 20 lbs and it eliminates this problem. if you have a tuner he can do it for you. Timing will not solve this, if in fact you're lean.
I am so not in my element when it comes to ecu mapping and tuning. I will leave that to the experts and find out who in my area can look into it. I have to say though with cruising on the highway last night with a full tank of gas she ran at 163 degrees and didn't give any indication of running lean. I got the stumbling only during the one instance of being at 1/8 tank. The inboard said I averaged 15.3mpg and that included some spirited highway cruising and some city driving
Last edited by Supahone; Apr 27, 2014 at 09:15 PM.
The ecm has the capability to add up to about 10% fuel in closed loop. If it runs good when warm, and you may only experience this when cold prior to closed loop. Without knowing what the blm counts are it is just a guess. Start with a scanner and check. With base timing set at 6 degrees the car should operate well.
Okay so it seems for fuel economy I'm good at the stock settings of 6tdc initial timing. Increasing to .60 tps is good for response but how about mpg? Also my distributor is not square to the plenum sort of twisted to the right should it be straight in relation to the plenum at stock timing?
This is the distributor position when it is one tooth off,my shop manual it states to insert the distributor with cylinder no1 at top dead center with the rotor pointing between clyinders 1 and 8 on the cap. When that is done the distributor electrical box will sit pretty much parrallel with the plenum. Not on an angle. I know a lot who put the distributor in with the rotor button pointing to no 1 on the cap, that due to the variable ignition timing results in the distributor electrical box having to be close to the firewall to ensure 6 deg advance when setting the timing (around 55 degree angle) in relation to the plenum.
I have never had any hesistation with 0.54 volts dc on the TPS, she is always ready to light the tires at the touch of the throttle even when she was stock standard.
Headers really wake the TPI engines up without sacrificing fuel economy, that is the way to go.
Last edited by gerardvg; Apr 28, 2014 at 07:32 PM.