Replace a Clutch in an 1987
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
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Replace a Clutch in an 1987
I am about to replace a clutch in my 1987 132K Corvette 4+3. I know I will need to remove the aluminum "C" section channel beam, the drive shaft, disconnect the shift linkage, I guess I will take the two bolts out of the slave and let it hang. There are bell housing bolts, and .... what else? Does anybody have any procedure or advice to make this go faster or easier?
The slave and master and working and pretty new - I am hoping to get away without replacing them (I have had problems getting good quality, non-chinese parts and I want to use the set of known good parts I have)
What am I not smart enough to think about??
The slave and master and working and pretty new - I am hoping to get away without replacing them (I have had problems getting good quality, non-chinese parts and I want to use the set of known good parts I have)
What am I not smart enough to think about??
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The exhaust will have to come off and with any luck it will come off in one piece. Unbolt the pipes from the exhaust manifolds, unbolt the cat from the Y-pipe, remove the bolt holding the exhaust at the center hanger at the main cat, remove the bolt on the hanger just in front of the diff and then remove the hangers at the mufflers.
The studs in the manifolds should be secure, but if there any are loose, you should be able to replace them with nuts and bolts.
Disconnect the steel fluid lines from the OD unit; you will see some fluid loss from the lines so remember to re-fill the OD unit as necessary.
You didn't say if you're doing the clutch R&R on a hoist, but it certainly helps. The trans and OD unit will be pretty heavy so a trans jack would be a big plus.
Make sure you use a clutch pilot tool to get the splines in the disc lined up properly so the trans input shaft will go in with little effort.
If you didn't replace the clutch hose when you did the master and slave check the hose for any signs of leaks or even bulges.
The studs in the manifolds should be secure, but if there any are loose, you should be able to replace them with nuts and bolts.
Disconnect the steel fluid lines from the OD unit; you will see some fluid loss from the lines so remember to re-fill the OD unit as necessary.
You didn't say if you're doing the clutch R&R on a hoist, but it certainly helps. The trans and OD unit will be pretty heavy so a trans jack would be a big plus.
Make sure you use a clutch pilot tool to get the splines in the disc lined up properly so the trans input shaft will go in with little effort.
If you didn't replace the clutch hose when you did the master and slave check the hose for any signs of leaks or even bulges.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
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The exhaust - right - I forgot about this - will do.
Any quick and easy way to plug the trans lines and minimize the fluid lines?
Unfortunately this is on ramps and jack stands - I would love to have a hoist or lift. I am sure I can get it out with some wood and a floor jack - getting it back it may require a trans jack rental.
Off to start - I did this before, but it was years ago. Good response - Thank you!!
Any quick and easy way to plug the trans lines and minimize the fluid lines?
Unfortunately this is on ramps and jack stands - I would love to have a hoist or lift. I am sure I can get it out with some wood and a floor jack - getting it back it may require a trans jack rental.
Off to start - I did this before, but it was years ago. Good response - Thank you!!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
The loss from the 2 lines is minimal; just what is in the lines themselves. There is a tube in the radiator that goes from one line to the other.
If you haven't replaced the filter in the OD, it may be a good time to do so after the trans is back in the car. The filter is around $10 at parts stores. It's the same filter used in Ford FMX transmissions installed in some early '70's cars and een a few F-150's. Here's some part #'s:
CarQuest 85926, AC Delco TF-184, Fram FT1024, NAPA ATP14717, or Ford D0AZ-7A098-A. You will have to transfer the rubber bushing from the old filter to the new one. Clean the pan, make sure the pan rails are free of old gasket and straight. Use some good black RTV sealant, applying a 1/8" bead around the pan. Tighten all the bolts equally to about 6-8 ft-lbs.
The fluid is Dexron III ATF and don't use synthetic fluid. You will need about 3 quarts. After filling the OD unit, rotate a rear wheel for a couple minutes. That allows the OD pump to push fluid thru the cooler lines. Top off with ATF and replace the filler plug.
If you haven't replaced the filter in the OD, it may be a good time to do so after the trans is back in the car. The filter is around $10 at parts stores. It's the same filter used in Ford FMX transmissions installed in some early '70's cars and een a few F-150's. Here's some part #'s:
CarQuest 85926, AC Delco TF-184, Fram FT1024, NAPA ATP14717, or Ford D0AZ-7A098-A. You will have to transfer the rubber bushing from the old filter to the new one. Clean the pan, make sure the pan rails are free of old gasket and straight. Use some good black RTV sealant, applying a 1/8" bead around the pan. Tighten all the bolts equally to about 6-8 ft-lbs.
The fluid is Dexron III ATF and don't use synthetic fluid. You will need about 3 quarts. After filling the OD unit, rotate a rear wheel for a couple minutes. That allows the OD pump to push fluid thru the cooler lines. Top off with ATF and replace the filler plug.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 188
Likes: 3
1987 Trans
I took the transmission to a shop, they found some issues and fixed them, I put the car back together with a new clutch, all went together OK. I now have no resistance in the clutch petal Arggg
No leaks - is it possible that the seals in the master are bad?
No leaks - is it possible that the seals in the master are bad?
