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I'm going to be putting my heads back on this afternoon, is there anything I should know to do since this is my first time doing it. I really don't need to mess it up and have to rebuild anything anytime soon. I know to use sealant around the bolts and to tighten them in the order specified in the chilton manual is there anything else???
You know to clean everything good first. Common shop practices and stuff. Are you using new head bolts? If not then get a new set of arp. I would also wipe them off to get the oil off of them that they come coated with in the box. I place 1 small drop of motor oil on the underside of the washers on the head bolts. This is to help lubricate it so that you get a good torque number when you put em at 65# or whatever yours calls for. It also helps make them all very even. Other than that, take your time. Get the heads on take a break then tackle the intake. Good luck.
You should find 2 torque specs. 1st pass and 2nd. Tighten in the proper order to the first spec and then make a second pass in the same order to the 2nd spec. Alum heads then need to be run for a heat cycle and re-tourqued to spec one last time.
what exactly is a heat cycle??? Right now my car is up on jack stands because of the new headers that are going on. Would it be safe to run it
1.) like it is on the stands and before I put the headers on
2.) lowered on the ground before I put the headers on or
3.) put it all back togther run it then take the headers off and re-torque the head
Heat cycle means run it up to normal op temp. Then shut off, cool down, and re-torque the head bolts. Get others advice on this as I do not work on engines often, but it is my understanding of the right way to do it.
Why would you have to unbolt your headers to re-torque your head bolts? Is there any confusion about heads and headers? Perhaps a typo in the original post? Heads are what you are bolting the exhaust headers on to.
I agree with silver & red CE - all new head gaskets are pre-flattened and should not require retorquing. In fact, the GM performance parts catalogue says that none of their composite head gaskets require retorquing.
I think retorquing gaskets is important if you are running iron block and iron heads, but I don't think it's required for iron/aluminum heads using composite gaskets.
But, to be honest, I don't think retorquing after the first heat cycle would hurt either.
From: Phx/but its a dry blast furnace kinda heat AZ
Re: HELP!!! Head install question (Jay Axson)
You should find 2 torque specs. 1st pass and 2nd. Tighten in the proper order to the first spec and then make a second pass in the same order to the 2nd spec. Alum heads then need to be run for a heat cycle and re-tourqued to spec one last time.
IMHO, impractical and unnecessary. Do you think for a moment that GM does that? Besides, who wants to take the exhaust manifolds+ all off a second go-round to re-torque.
Re: HELP!!! Head install question (TheCorvetteKid)
Ok, I did re-torque the heads after a heat cycle. The ones inside the valve cover were fine, but the ones by the exhaust manifolds needed to be tightened a little bit. I was using napa gaskets if that makes a difference.