taking off Canton 15-240T pan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
taking off Canton 15-240T pan
I have to take off my Canton 15-240T. I remember from installing it on the motor stand, that I had to move the pan quite a bit to get the baffle to clear the pump pick up. This is where I'm having doubts. The engine now is in the car and is equiped with headers. On the right side (when viewed from the flywheel) I have a little less than 1" between the pan kickout and the header.
Would this work ?
Would this work ?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,963
Likes: 709
From: WI
I've had mine off several times and it can be tricky. On my year I unbolt the front two diagonal frame braces and the brake line. This is enough room to shift the pan around but to find a spot it will drop out sometimes the engine needs to be turned. If a crank counterweight is in the wrong place it will block the pan.
On mine the front of the pan clearing the frame is the toughest and also the most tricky to seat the gasket when reinstalling. Lifting the engine a little may help. Also to help seat the front seal I tied it up with a string so it wouldn't move out of place.
On mine the front of the pan clearing the frame is the toughest and also the most tricky to seat the gasket when reinstalling. Lifting the engine a little may help. Also to help seat the front seal I tied it up with a string so it wouldn't move out of place.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 110
From: Austin Texas
I've had mine off several times and it can be tricky. On my year I unbolt the front two diagonal frame braces and the brake line. This is enough room to shift the pan around but to find a spot it will drop out sometimes the engine needs to be turned. If a crank counterweight is in the wrong place it will block the pan.
On mine the front of the pan clearing the frame is the toughest and also the most tricky to seat the gasket when reinstalling. Lifting the engine a little may help. Also to help seat the front seal I tied it up with a string so it wouldn't move out of place.
On mine the front of the pan clearing the frame is the toughest and also the most tricky to seat the gasket when reinstalling. Lifting the engine a little may help. Also to help seat the front seal I tied it up with a string so it wouldn't move out of place.
I did mine last fall...I had to jack the front of the motor up about 1/2"-3/4" so the pan would clear the main bearing studs installed when we built the motor.
A lift is your friend for this operation...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
Sorry, I should have mentioned. I use the pan on an +86 block in a C3 Corvette. Front crossmember clears fine. It's just the headers on the side of the engine. Collectors end up just along side the kickouts. I remember I had to move the pan on sideways when on the enginestand, but forgot how much. I hate taking off the headers on this particular car.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 110
From: Austin Texas
Sorry, I should have mentioned. I use the pan on an +86 block in a C3 Corvette. Front crossmember clears fine. It's just the headers on the side of the engine. Collectors end up just along side the kickouts. I remember I had to move the pan on sideways when on the enginestand, but forgot how much. I hate taking off the headers on this particular car.
My headers almost touch the frame, so I can't do that. But in a '79...who knows?
