C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

what's holding me back?

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Old May 15, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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Hey guys, I have a 1985 Corvette with the following modifications:
TPIS Miniram 1204 ported to 1205
58 MM Power Products throttle body
TPIS flat tappet ZZ409 camshaft (224/224 duration @ 0.050", 0.330"/0.330" lobe lift, 0.528"/0.528" total valve lift with 1.6 RR, 112 LSA)
1.6 Roller rockers
Hedman long tube 1 5/8" headers
Dynomax true dual 2 1/4" exhaust with Dynomax ultra flo mufflers
35* total timing
MSD 6AL2 ignition box
D.U.I. distributor
3.75:1 gears
MD 8.5 mm ignition wires
K&n air filter
Air filter lid cut
Descreened MAF sensor
No cats
10:1 compression ratio
11.5:1 - 12.3:1 AFR at WOT still tuning - targeting 12.8:1
AFR 195 Eliminator heads

And supporting modifications

Any ideas what could be holding me back?

It feels about as fast as my father's C5 and that's about it. For the money I put into it, I could have sold it and bought a C5 with the money.

Thanks.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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Feel is one thing racing is another, until you race them or get a track time from both. Still then horsepower is only part of it.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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What kind of a c5 does your dad have? What transmission etc. Have you dynoed your car? Is your car a automatic? If so, what stall, what rear gears?
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Old May 15, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
What kind of a c5 does your dad have? What transmission etc. Have you dynoed your car? Is your car a automatic? If so, what stall, what rear gears?
2004 convertible stick.

My car is a 4+3 and no I haven't dynoed it.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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Butt dynos don't work. You need dyno numbers or track times.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:40 PM
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There's only so much you can get from bolt-ons. Stroke it, more cubic inches and convert to a roller cam. Real power isn't cheap.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:43 PM
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Got to see a dyno sheet, that will tell more than anything.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
There's only so much you can get from bolt-ons. Stroke it, more cubic inches and convert to a roller cam. Real power isn't cheap.
You're right. I've spent close to $10,000 on this car and it still isn't fast.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 02:23 AM
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Getting a more aggressive ramped cam, 1 3/4" headers, x-pipe, and probably, less timing. Who knows about the rest of the tune?

Depending on the model of Hedman headers, you're probably covering part of the exhaust ports too.

FWIW, one of the best thing about the 195 Eliminators is their lower lift numbers. That's one reason a more aggressively ramped cam would help. Get air in faster and close the valves for better boom.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 16, 2014 at 02:26 AM.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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My opinion in a nutshell is, you are leaving a lot on the table with low compression and a small cam.
But, keep in mind, you started with 230hp and your dad has 350. A bigger roller cam and 11 to 11.5 to 1 compression would make a big difference.
I hope $10,000.00 includes labor. To me, that sounds like a lot for a top end package.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
My opinion in a nutshell is, you are leaving a lot on the table with low compression and a small cam.
But, keep in mind, you started with 230hp and your dad has 350. A bigger roller cam and 11 to 11.5 to 1 compression would make a big difference.
I hope $10,000.00 includes labor. To me, that sounds like a lot for a top end package.
No that doesn't include labor. I did everything myself. That includes all the modifications I've done to the car to support the engine set up.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DanielRicany
You're right. I've spent close to $10,000 on this car and it still isn't fast.
Sometimes the problem with speed is you just get use to it and want more. Happens to me, I'll loose perspective from driving the car too much. Still sometimes you can increase power and slow the car down in the quarter, tire spin!
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Old May 16, 2014 | 10:48 AM
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$10k spent and you ended up with products like 1 5/8 Hedman headers, Power products TB and a flat tappet cam on a stock bottom end 350!! Something doesn't add up
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Old May 16, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 89L98TPI
$10k spent and you ended up with products like 1 5/8 Hedman headers, Power products TB and a flat tappet cam on a stock bottom end 350!! Something doesn't add up
$1200 - Miniram and Fuel rail kit
$1815 - AFR Heads with intake gaskets, washers, head bolts
$185 - TPIS cam
$180 - Hedman Headers
$800 - 3.75:1 gears, bearings, and installation
$200 - Dynomax Exhaust with mufflers
$250 - Throttle Body
$200 - AFR gauge with WBO2 sensor
$50 - K&N air filter
$180 - Speedometer Calibrator
$150 - Pushrods
$150 - Rocker Arms
$585 - ZR1 Replica Rims
$725 - Nitto tires
$300 - D.U.I. Distributor
$250 - MSD 6AL2 ignition box
$30 - Sun Pro Tach
$200 - American Eagle Aluminum Radiator
$115 - Flow Kooler Water Pump
$85 x 2 - MSD 8.5mm ignition wires
$40 - Summit Racing heat socks
$20 - Heated O2 sensor Conversion
$250 - Tuning Kit
$140 - Tunes
$150 - Freshened Valvetrain with stock heads
$150 - Isky Racing valve springs because stock springs broke
$150 - Gaskets that got messed up during installation
$50 Header paint (had to paint multiple times because they got scratched up from removing spark plugs so many times trying to tune the engine)
- Add a few hundred for shipping costs

That comes out to $8865, not including the shipping costs, and miscellaneous stuff that I probably forgot to mention.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 12:06 PM
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Your car should be much faster than it was even with the butt dyno. You need to check some basic things, I would start with a leak down test just to see how the bottom end is, that would be a good starting point to eliminate things that might be a problem even with all the work you have done. It's really frustrating spending a ton of hard won cash on your favorite car then not achieving the result you want but start a check list and go thru everything making sure it is working properly.
I bought new TF heads for my 93 only to find after installing them that two intake valves were not sealing. I had a 35% leak down rate on 2 cylinders, even new stuff can be bad. I ended up having to do a valve job on my "new" heads. Good luck, you will learn a ton just checking thru everything.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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No reason that car should not run a second faster than a stock C5. I have less gear, less cam, and smaller heads and run 12.80 all day long. There is something wrong with that car. I'd start with looking at the tune.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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Wow that is A lot of Mula!! You could have gone LSx. I did and my butt dyno tells me its fast.

I bet the car is a lot faster than you think. Maybe you could use a good street tune?
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Old May 16, 2014 | 01:21 PM
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First, stop adding up the costs. It's always a bummer.
Second, including the cost of the Vette and complete rework of body, paint, engine, trans, interior, suspension, etc, my quick calculations have me at $11,000. I did all the labor.
The only original parts of my engine are the block and oil pan. The trans in now a T5. I have coil overs in the front. The paint was stripped completely and it's now pearl white with an L88 scoop molded in.
I agree with above - yours doesn't seem to add up.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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I found this camshaft. Would this be better suited for me? I can't afford to go to a roller cam though. That's like over $1000. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=81&sb=2
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Old May 16, 2014 | 03:16 PM
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Wait a minute......we don't even know what the car dynos or puts down in the 1/4........Its really hard to say without ANY data.......its like asking the doctor for a prescription before the doctor examines you.......keep buying different medicine until you feel better ???? it's no way to go about it
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