Bearing Torque Specs
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Cockeysville Maryland
Bearing Torque Specs
Hi! Have yet another question for you enormously helpful folks. We'll be torquing down the 36mm nut and Torx bolts on the bearings tomorrow. We were all kinds of confused. I'd seen a guy say 187 lb-ft for the 36mm nut; Dad swore he saw a video where a guy said 164. Our confusion ended... when I read someone saying it's 164 original factory spec, 200 for current (revised, I suppose) recommended spec... and he kinda split the difference and went with 175. What do y'all recommend, and why? While we're at it... to what torque measurement are we torquing down the Torx fittings? As always, many thanks in advance.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 603
From: Minneapolis Mn
Torque
I just did my u-joints on the half shafts about a month ago. The 160+ was in the manual but I've also read where it's been updated to 200.
I did mine just under 200, figuring it was close enough. If there isn't enough torque on the nut, I'm guessing the wheel assemblies would sway side-to-side and eventually separate in some way shape or form.
I've only put a couple hundred miles on it since doing the work but it seems solid.
Hope that helps.
I did mine just under 200, figuring it was close enough. If there isn't enough torque on the nut, I'm guessing the wheel assemblies would sway side-to-side and eventually separate in some way shape or form.
I've only put a couple hundred miles on it since doing the work but it seems solid.
Hope that helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
This is from my online repair site...
WW
To install rear wheel bearing:
10.Inspect the wheel hub and bearing seal, replace if necessary. Also inspect the wheel spindle washer and replace, if damaged or excessively worn.
11.Install the wheel hub and bearing, caliper mounting plate and the wheel spindle washer. The washer flat should firmly seat against the shoulder of the wheel spindle. The lip of the washer should face the wheel spindle splines prior to hub and bearing installation.
12.Install the wheel hub mounting bolts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
13.Install the washer and spindle nut, and hand-tighten.
14.Install the wheel retainer and a new cotter pin.
15.If removed, connect the transverse spring to the knuckle.
16.Install the brake rotor, then install the caliper and parking brake assembly.
17.With an assistant depressing the brake pedal to prevent the wheel from turning, tighten the spindle nut to 164 ft. lbs. (223 Nm). The vehicle should not rest on the tires or move until the spindle nut is tightened.
Fig. 11: With an assistant depressing the brake pedal, tighten the hub nut to specifications
WWTo install rear wheel bearing:
10.Inspect the wheel hub and bearing seal, replace if necessary. Also inspect the wheel spindle washer and replace, if damaged or excessively worn.
11.Install the wheel hub and bearing, caliper mounting plate and the wheel spindle washer. The washer flat should firmly seat against the shoulder of the wheel spindle. The lip of the washer should face the wheel spindle splines prior to hub and bearing installation.
12.Install the wheel hub mounting bolts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
13.Install the washer and spindle nut, and hand-tighten.
14.Install the wheel retainer and a new cotter pin.
15.If removed, connect the transverse spring to the knuckle.
16.Install the brake rotor, then install the caliper and parking brake assembly.
17.With an assistant depressing the brake pedal to prevent the wheel from turning, tighten the spindle nut to 164 ft. lbs. (223 Nm). The vehicle should not rest on the tires or move until the spindle nut is tightened.
Fig. 11: With an assistant depressing the brake pedal, tighten the hub nut to specifications
Last edited by WW7; May 21, 2014 at 07:38 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,357
Likes: 2,729
The 3 hub mounting bolts in the FSM's is 66 lb ft depending on the year. I believe the 66 lb ft is fine. Regarding the 36mm spindle nut, I've never seen the 200 number in print or in a GM TSB so until someone could "show me" I'd say that was pulled from someone's a$$.
The number for the 88+ spindle nut is I believe published at 164 lb ft
In an early FSM (1984) the spindle nut is mentioned at 151 - 177 lb ft and the hub bolts at 59 - 73 lb ft.
Ironically maybe but take the average of the 151 & 177 and the 164 result is maybe what they determined they would publish later. The hub bolt average 59 & 73 is also the published number for the later hub bolts. Coincidence? I'd think NOT!
"your" online repair site? That's quite an "adventure" I'm sure!
The number for the 88+ spindle nut is I believe published at 164 lb ft
In an early FSM (1984) the spindle nut is mentioned at 151 - 177 lb ft and the hub bolts at 59 - 73 lb ft.
Ironically maybe but take the average of the 151 & 177 and the 164 result is maybe what they determined they would publish later. The hub bolt average 59 & 73 is also the published number for the later hub bolts. Coincidence? I'd think NOT!
"your" online repair site? That's quite an "adventure" I'm sure!
Last edited by WVZR-1; May 21, 2014 at 07:46 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
I didn't mean it's "mine"..
...I just use it...
...The repair site is from the Allegheny County Library system in Maryland, and is free for anyone living in the area.. Since you live fairly close to me you may give it a try, maybe you can access "my" online repair site also....
...:The 66 lb ft spec is for the OPs 86 Corvette........WW
...I just use it......The repair site is from the Allegheny County Library system in Maryland, and is free for anyone living in the area.. Since you live fairly close to me you may give it a try, maybe you can access "my" online repair site also.......:The 66 lb ft spec is for the OPs 86 Corvette........WW
Last edited by WW7; May 21, 2014 at 08:15 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,939
Likes: 705
From: WI
I go through a lot of wheel bearings racing the car and some come NIB with an attention sheet saying in red "TQ nut to 200 ft/lbs".
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,592
Likes: 13
From: USA
Do a search here and you will find many who say Gordan Kilebrew recommends 200 Ft/lbs on the spindle nut. This is updated from the original number in the FSM.
If you are using the HD tapered bearings from WBI, use thier number. Thier bearings are preloaded by the spindle nut @ 180 Ft/lbs.
You also want to know about the thin teflon-coated washer that goes on the spindle behind the bearing assy. Many here say to replace it everytime. The last time I did one of mine, the washer was there and looked good, so I reused it even though I have new ones. The main thing is to replace it if yours is missing.
If you are using the HD tapered bearings from WBI, use thier number. Thier bearings are preloaded by the spindle nut @ 180 Ft/lbs.
You also want to know about the thin teflon-coated washer that goes on the spindle behind the bearing assy. Many here say to replace it everytime. The last time I did one of mine, the washer was there and looked good, so I reused it even though I have new ones. The main thing is to replace it if yours is missing.
Last edited by TimV SR; May 21, 2014 at 10:59 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 603
From: Minneapolis Mn
Teflon washer
When I did the u-joints on my 86, part of the reason was I was getting noise out of the rear. I pulled the half-shafts and spindle out as a unit. Being the washer was looking me in the face in addition to the u-joints, I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with the teflon washers but I replaced them anyway. I didn't want to have to tear it down again if the noise remained after doing the u-joints, so for around $16 more, I changed those washers too.
The u-joints were definitely bad and not sure of the teflon washers, but with all of them changed (u-joints and teflon washers), the noise is gone and that's what I wanted so it was a drop in the bucket for me additional to be rid of the noise. I want to drive rather than lay under the car.
When I loosened or tightened the spindle nut, with everything else hooked up, I just set the parking brake and it worked fine for me. The car was on jackstands in back plus a jack under the batwing plus the front wheels solidly blocked, and didn't move an ounce while loosening or tightening the spindle nuts.
The u-joints were definitely bad and not sure of the teflon washers, but with all of them changed (u-joints and teflon washers), the noise is gone and that's what I wanted so it was a drop in the bucket for me additional to be rid of the noise. I want to drive rather than lay under the car.
When I loosened or tightened the spindle nut, with everything else hooked up, I just set the parking brake and it worked fine for me. The car was on jackstands in back plus a jack under the batwing plus the front wheels solidly blocked, and didn't move an ounce while loosening or tightening the spindle nuts.
Last edited by hcbph; May 21, 2014 at 11:38 AM.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Cockeysville Maryland
Thank you all for your answers. We got the hubs in without a hitch - though it was by no means easy. (Dad thought the water pump was harder. Now we're installing a later power window regulator in the driver's side door; the ribbon broke.) Apologies for the late thank you. This is a great forum...