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Need Alternator GURU---Help

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Default Need Alternator GURU---Help

My Alternator went out on my 85 C4 leaving me stranded 40 miles from home, I am 71 years old so I was not too happy. My son brought me a new one, I installed it, and nothing showed up on the volt meter. I got the car home, Put it up on blocks and started chasing wires. All of the major wires from the battery to the starter looked good and have continuity. The main wire to the alternator has 12 volts when I check it with the multi-meter. Took the alternator off and too it to O Rileys, put it on the tester and it check out good. When I put it on the car, it only shows 12 volts going to the battery...

What am I missing, why is the alternator not working on the car. Need help please....

Wayne
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by T. Wayne Nelson
My Alternator went out on my 85 C4 leaving me stranded 40 miles from home, I am 71 years old so I was not too happy. My son brought me a new one, I installed it, and nothing showed up on the volt meter. I got the car home, Put it up on blocks and started chasing wires. All of the major wires from the battery to the starter looked good and have continuity. The main wire to the alternator has 12 volts when I check it with the multi-meter. Took the alternator off and too it to O Rileys, put it on the tester and it check out good. When I put it on the car, it only shows 12 volts going to the battery...

What am I missing, why is the alternator not working on the car. Need help please....

Wayne
with engine running - 12 volts from alternator?
O Rileys bench test - volts?
battery test engine off, volts? how fast of a drop in volts?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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Check the small red wire that runs to the battery; see if the fusable link is ok.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
Check the small red wire that runs to the battery; see if the fusable link is ok.
With key off, I have 12 Volts to the large red wire that bolts to back of alternator, and I have 12 volts to the red wire in the plug. No volts to the white wire in the plug. With key on I have 12 volts to the white wire in the plug.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by active1951
with engine running - 12 volts from alternator?
O Rileys bench test - volts?
battery test engine off, volts? how fast of a drop in volts?
At Orileys it showed a max of 16 and average of 14.2

When I turn on the fans and A/C quick drop in voltage. Like there is nothing going anywhere.....
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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With key off, ...
What are those wire voltages with engine running??
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
What are those wire voltages with engine running??
no volts to large red wire when running, both wires in the plug are 12 v
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by T. Wayne Nelson
At Orileys it showed a max of 16 and average of 14.2

When I turn on the fans and A/C quick drop in voltage. Like there is nothing going anywhere.....
I mean, with engine OFF, check battery voltage AND see how much it drops over time.

How old is battery?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by active1951
I mean, with engine OFF, check battery voltage AND see how much it drops over time.

How old is battery?
The battery is several years old.. How would that stop the alternator from working..
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by T. Wayne Nelson
The battery is several years old.. How would that stop the alternator from working..
Could be battery or could be a short somewhere, so check battery voltage with engine off and see how fast it drops.

and did you check old alternator at store to be sure it was bad?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:50 PM
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Is there anything in the digi-dash that could be causing the problem
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by active1951
Could be battery or could be a short somewhere, so check battery voltage with engine off and see how fast it drops.

and did you check old alternator at store to be sure it was bad?
Yes, the old alternator was bad, was only putting out 11 amps. If I am getting voltage at the alternator on all three connections, would that rule out a fusible link.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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get the car running while the car is running disconnect the pos battery cable and see what you get
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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if you are getting voltage at all three places you alt has to work. check voltage at the large term on the back of alt with car running also do as I reccomended in my previous post
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hooked073
get the car running while the car is running disconnect the pos battery cable and see what you get
What should happen
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by hooked073
get the car running while the car is running disconnect the pos battery cable and see what you get
I'm quoting my FSM (pg. 6D16): "NEVER operate the generator (alternator) with the output terminal disconnected."

I did not add the capital letters . . . that's just like screaming DANGER . . . DANGER!!

If you run the alternator with the battery cable disconnected, the voltage may go high enough to fry some electronics, including the voltage regulator inside the alternator.

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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by T. Wayne Nelson
The battery is several years old.. How would that stop the alternator from working..
Alternator is meant to "MAINTAIN" the battery it is not meant to recharge a battery of less than near optimal values. For a 17SI alternator there are specific values for terminal 1 and terminal 2 on the connector but I'm going to suggest that you have an electrical shop evaluate the system for you with the proper equipment. It's difficult to determine what you've accomplished with your poking and prodding.

"HOTROD ROY" is certainty correct in his mention of "NEVER"! This is more critical I believe of the early 12SI thru 17SI product.
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To Need Alternator GURU---Help

Old Jun 12, 2014 | 06:43 AM
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have never seen any alt hurt by disconecting it for a sec. they run them disconected when they test them this is no different then a bench test. wayne 1 of 2 things will happen your car will die meaning the alt is not putting out anything or the car will keep running if you hae a volt meter hooked to large term of the alt while doing this if charging it will probley go up to about 15 volts/
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
I'm quoting my FSM (pg. 6D16): "NEVER operate the generator (alternator) with the output terminal disconnected."

I did not add the capital letters . . . that's just like screaming DANGER . . . DANGER!!

If you run the alternator with the battery cable disconnected, the voltage may go high enough to fry some electronics, including the voltage regulator inside the alternator.

I have never looked at a service manual for alt dia. it is something I learned yrs ago. I understand the reasoning for that but for the most part it is hug wash. When they bench test a alt they test it just like I said but off the car. Your not running it forever just a sec or to to see if the alt can put out and to elimiate other things. If anyone does not like my susgetion I have no problem I understand. I do know at least 3 people in the last moth have used my way on her without ant ill effects and it help them dianoise their car
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by hooked073
I have never looked at a service manual for alt dia. it is something I learned yrs ago. I understand the reasoning for that but for the most part it is hug wash. When they bench test a alt they test it just like I said but off the car. Your not running it forever just a sec or to to see if the alt can put out and to elimiate other things. If anyone does not like my susgetion I have no problem I understand. I do know at least 3 people in the last moth have used my way on her without ant ill effects and it help them dianoise their car
Nearly every post by the OP indicates he needs the services of someone that "understands" it's one thing to attempt to help but if there's no understanding of the "sensing" circuitry in the early SI product it's best for it to be left to the fellow that "understands"! It can save the OP or anyone "money" in the long run. The FSM has procedures for checking the sensing circuitry that's very simple for a two wire SI system and if the OP has the FSM he should do a read. The very early FSM's were a bit more explanatory in procedures than the later ones where it's "assumed" the information is being used by "professionals"!

The OP's response in post #9 is indicator enough that he needs help! Not trying to be critical, sarcastic or patronizing or anything else one might want to assume but it's I believe what anyone should have passed on to the OP after the first few responses.

We all need "help" from time to time myself more frequently than others.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 12, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
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