C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

help me make a cam choice!

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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 11:27 PM
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Default help me make a cam choice!

I originally wasn't going to do a cam swap but I can't help but feel like I need a reward while I'm replacing my head gasket I'm thinking 222/224 112 lsa but I wanted your opinions on whether this would be a good torquer cam. I'd like to get some good low to mid range but I'm sticking with stock heads and exhaust for now. I will be going aftermarket later though so can I get my cam based on my future heads/exhaust and still get good performance until then?
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 11:11 PM
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I'm not sure about best cam for a LT1 but, since heads are now off, I might have them worked with performance valves instead of doing the cam at this time.
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Should have mentioned this before but it's an l98. Sorry!
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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This would work much better with stock components, and not require custom programming.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-501-8/
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 03:17 AM
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This would work much better with stock components, and not require custom programming.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-501-8/
Would that keep my low end torque? I've read so much about cams but still don't really know how the numbers affect my output. Mainly what I gather is the higher the numbers the higher the power band. I'm not racing or anything so it's only street driven but I still want that "jump off the line" feeling at stop lights. That cam seems to be the most suitable for what I want but before I order is there any other cam that would be best for low end and carry through mid range? Right now I have stock heads and intake but I'll most likely change those down the road but first will be LT headers. I'm not sure when the new heads and intake will come but probably not very soon. So is the 501 still recommended?
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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I just put a Lingenfelter 74211 in my l98 rebuild. It will require head work for the valve lift, but it runs well!
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MDstar2
I just put a Lingenfelter 74211 in my l98 rebuild. It will require head work for the valve lift, but it runs well!
Thanks for the input! Do you have stock intake or aftermarket? How did it affect your low end?
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
Should have mentioned this before but it's an l98. Sorry!
Judging by your profile, there are other items you should have mentioned. 383 stroker? What other mods? Cam? Intake? Exhaust?

Come on!
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Judging by your profile, there are other items you should have mentioned. 383 stroker? What other mods? Cam? Intake? Exhaust?

Come on!
You're completely right! It's a 383 stroker with stock intake and exhaust except for a main cat delete. Cam is also stock. Throttle body coolant bypass and removed the "power robbing" disk up front is basically the only mods. All of this is on a '90 L98 and I don't have to pass emissions here in Oklahoma so no worries about that.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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Lightly ported and smoothed stock gm tpi and runners, 1.6 roller rockers, 74211 cam, eddy heads lightly ported, 10.7:1, long tube tpis headers, no cat, Magnaflows, 355. Pulls stronger everywhere than it did stock. First gear is done real quick and it pulls you back in the seat strong at 90mph in 3rd.
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
You're completely right! It's a 383 stroker with stock intake and exhaust except for a main cat delete. Cam is also stock. Throttle body coolant bypass and removed the "power robbing" disk up front is basically the only mods. All of this is on a '90 L98 and I don't have to pass emissions here in Oklahoma so no worries about that.
You built a 383 and put the stock heads/cam/intake back on
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 03:19 AM
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I didn't do that. The guy who built it did. I only bought it that way.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
I didn't do that. The guy who built it did. I only bought it that way.
How do you know it's a 383? He could have lied to you... next time you change your oil pan gasket, look for notches in the block for the rods to clear.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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I measured the bore and found that it is a 383
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
I measured the bore and found that it is a 383
To be more specific... You measured the bore or the stroke to determine it was a 383?

From my limited knowledge a 383 is created by changing the crank, rods and usually pistons to allow a longer stroke. Bore measurement would stay the same unless they bored it to clean up the walls. This is why you where asked to see if they notched the block for the different rods geometery.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ekistler1971
To be more specific... You measured the bore or the stroke to determine it was a 383?

From my limited knowledge a 383 is created by changing the crank, rods and usually pistons to allow a longer stroke. Bore measurement would stay the same unless they bored it to clean up the walls. This is why you where asked to see if they notched the block for the different rods geometery.
You are correct but it also needs to be bored .030 over to 4.030 to be a 383 stroker.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian95
You are correct but it also needs to be bored .030 over to 4.030 to be a 383 stroker.
Yes but it could have just been rebuilt and bored over. I think 30 over on a 350 makes it a 355...
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To help me make a cam choice!

Old Jul 6, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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The previous owner wasn't the builder and after I had bought it I talked to the builder and he had no reason to lie to me. The builder had the cam ready to go in but decided to sell it and put the stock intake and heads and kept the cam for his other vette. Later he offered to sell the cam to me. Many other people have confirmed that it's a 383 (it's a well known vette that the chief of police owned in our small community) without me even mentioning it.

I really appreciate the concern you all and I understand it but I'm confident that the builder didn't lie to me.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 05:09 PM
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If it's got the stock heads, a simple compression test would weed out the 383 vs 350 issue. 383 pumps the compression significantly higher, don't ya know!

As for a cam with stock intake/exhaust, duration and steep ramps are gonna help get some air in/out....especially on the intake side! I'd probably suggest a LPE SR cam (74219). Ya might get away with 1.5 rockets w/o head work. 1.6 for sure would require machining the heads. Still would be a good choice if you upgrade the intake/exhaust later.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 8, 2014 at 06:37 PM. Reason: Corrected first sentence for clarity.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
If it's got the stock heads, a simple compression test would week this one out. 383 pumps the compression a bit higher, don't ya know!

As for a cam with stock intake/exhaust, duration and steep ramps are gonna help get some air in/out....especially on the intake side! I'd probably suggest a LPE SR cam (74219). Ya might get away with 1.5 rockets w/o head work. 1.6 for sure would require machining the heads. Still would be a good choice if you upgrade the intake/exhaust later.
Thanks for the suggestion! I've got it all apart right now waiting to put a new cam in before I get the heads back on. I do plan on upgrading the intake and heads but that will probably be later on down the road. I just wanted something that will add to the low and pull through the mid range better than stock.
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