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My car went from running strong with no signs of problems to acting like it's not running on all cylinders. All this in a matter of several minutes. It began with just a slight roughness to loosing considerable power, enough that the car would not drive. I shut it off and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes and restarted it. Although it ran rough I managed to drive it a couple of miles. The rough running went from mild to slowly losing all power again. I repeated what I did again and managed to drive the 1/4 mile to my home. My mechanic feels that the problem is the Mass Airflow Sensor. Is what I wrote sound like that's the problem?
Last edited by mroxford; Jul 15, 2014 at 11:21 AM.
Reason: sent the thread unfinished by mistake.
My mechanic feels that the problem is the Mass Airflow Sensor. Is what I wrote sound like that's the problem?
Why does your mechanic "feel" its the MAS? Did he run the proper electronic diagnoses to determine it's defective or does he have magical super power intuition when he waves his trusty diagnostic phillips screwdriver over the engine??? <sarcasm>
I get concerned when mechanics start to 'feel' and 'sense' a bad sensor. There is only one way to do it right... find evidence to the problem and then replace what is defective. Especially someone who is supposed to be a 'professional'!!
MROXFORD, My 90 coupe has gone from running perfectly to limping along on 5 cylinders and then back to running great in the last 3 days. I explained the symptoms to a local C4 repair shop. He is 99% sure that the mass air flow sensor is simply dirty based on his experience with multiple 90 Corvettes. Car is going in for a $26 cleaning later this week and he will read the codes . The engine service light is not on. Injectors, plugs, wires were replaced 18 months ago, along with a new fuel pump last week. If the unit is bad, the replacement cost is $200. Did you check for any "arc'n unt der spark'n" under the hood in a dark garage? The under hood light fuse is the top left one.
First thing to do then is drive it until you see the SES light come on, or simply let it idle up to operating temperature. It'll drop into closed loop operation.
It should then set an SES light as it sees something is going on with the MAF voltages. You need to pull the code right then. Likely it is Codes 33-34-36, all or a combination of them, if it is MAF-related. You can get a code reader, or use the paperclip trick. A search in the archives will show you how to do the trick.
Then there are procedures in the manual to sift out the culprit. It could be the MAF, in which case you need to replace the relays (behind the battery) as well, or simply the relays. It could be something completely different, but you have to pull a code to know where to go.
Do not throw $200-300 at the problem, pull the code.
Vader is correct, these are not the cars you want to start throwing parts at, there are to many things that could be causing this problem to just guess... You need to eliminate possible causes one at a time...This is the only way to find whats causing your problem...It could be the MAF sensor, but it could also be the coil, ICM, or any number of other things...Hooking the car up to a scanner is the first thing your mechanic should do, he could check the readings on the device and see if anything was off spec...Using a scanner you can see how many grams/sec of air the MAF sensor is reading at the different rpms, and see if the sensor is working correctly.The Maf sensor reads from (0 to 255) grams/sec when operating normally, if the maf sensor isn't working smoothly within this range, then you have a bad sensor.....WW
MROXFORD, My 90 coupe has gone from running perfectly to limping along on 5 cylinders and then back to running great in the last 3 days. I explained the symptoms to a local C4 repair shop. He is 99% sure that the mass air flow sensor is simply dirty based on his experience with multiple 90 Corvettes. Car is going in for a $26 cleaning later this week and he will read the codes . The engine service light is not on. Injectors, plugs, wires were replaced 18 months ago, along with a new fuel pump last week. If the unit is bad, the replacement cost is $200. Did you check for any "arc'n unt der spark'n" under the hood in a dark garage? The under hood light fuse is the top left one.
That would be a fantastic piece of troubleshooting by your mechanic! Only catch is that the '90 and '91 L98's are Speed Density cars!
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by mroxford
My car went from running strong with no signs of problems to acting like it's not running on all cylinders. All this in a matter of several minutes. It began with just a slight roughness to loosing considerable power, enough that the car would not drive. I shut it off and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes and restarted it. Although it ran rough I managed to drive it a couple of miles. The rough running went from mild to slowly losing all power again. I repeated what I did again and managed to drive the 1/4 mile to my home. My mechanic feels that the problem is the Mass Airflow Sensor. Is what I wrote sound like that's the problem?
An easy way to see if it's the MAS is to unplug it and see if the miss is better
Don't forget, it doesn't have to be the sensor itself, it's just as likely to be the wires or plugs that connect to it,they can get brittle and fracture inside the insulation, when I fitted my new MAF I fitted new connections at the same time, just for peace of mind.
I'll start off by qualifying that I'm more in tune with the LTx cars than the L98 cars. That said...
Typically anything related to intake and exhuast sensors will throw a code pretty quick. Along with misfires etc.
I would be a little leary of a mechanic that does the "I have a hunch" diagnosis, or at least of that diagnosis. Granted, maybe he's seen this before, but he should also know that there are a plethera of systems on a car that could create similar symptoms. It's like going to your doctor for knee pain, and before you even sit down he says you have a pinched nerve in your neck.
It could be the maf, it could be the distributor, it could be the fuel pressure regulator, it could be the fuel pump, it could be a bad spark wire or plug, it could be a clogged catalytic converter, it could be a valve train issue, it could be the timing chain, it could be a head gasket, it could be the ecm, it could be bad gas... I think you get the point.