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Last weekend I bled my brakes and on the very first wheel (rear right) I forgot to keep an eye on the fluid level and pulled air into the system.
Long story short, I thought I got the air back out but today on a long drive my brake warning light came on and when stopped at times I would get a low brake pedal. Car wouldn't creap froward or anything but brake pedal was definitely going to the floor (not feeling right). The barke light turned back off on it's own, but I know something isn't right. Fluid levels look fine at the master. The rear chamber had the cap sucked in which I thought was odd considering the level is at max.
Can I assume I didn't get all the air out? I am guessing I need to bleed at all 4 corners again? Maybe just bleed at that rear wheel again. I don't know where to start.
Probably have air in system still. Best brake bleed/flush is to gravity bleed. This takes time but is the best. Besides, unless you track every weekend you should not need to bleed them that often.
You forgot to keep an eye on the level? You mean the master went dry? If so u cannot bleed from only the calipers now. You have to bleed the Master that went dry and off the car because the brake pedal assy does not push the piston in all the way. Bench bleed the master and Id take it as a sign and get another/fresh/rebuilt one and at the same time replace all 4 of the rubber hoses, then bleed out ur calipers and you'll be good
P.S Rebuilt masters dont come with a bleed kit. When u buy one best to get 2 steel about 12 inch long brake lines that fit both ur holes in ur master to make up ur own bleed kit
I wonder, couldn't I bleed it while on the car if I put the rear end up on race ramps? If the whole point in bench bleeding is to get the MC level I believe I can do that with it still in the car.
I also read that once level this way you can crack it open at the MC lines and purge the air that way with a helper making sure to close it back off on the brake release.
No way possible while on the car because the brake pedal assembly cant push the master cyl's cyl in all the way
It has to be disconnected from the booster to physically get to the back of it too bleed it out. Check this video out but on Youtube their is a million of them
Ah, I see. Yeah, I am thinking I will just get a new one while I am at it. It is the original MC and the brakes didn't seem to have a lot of stopping power which was the reason I did a full bleed with new fluid in the first place.
Sure Man and again another thing to think about are those old factory rubber flex brake hoses. They Suck. They sucked when new and suck even more when old and if it wasn't stopping good bleeding em out really wont do much at all. In ur case where ur at sure but u have to think about why it wasn't really working for ya in the first place. If its a Base vette They werent that good. The bigger 13 inch 51's were nice but the cheepest way around all this is some really good pads at least O.E.M. Replacement that came with the 30 percent or so powered Iron in them will help out alot.
Check this chic out
Not a Vette but thats all I could find and the Braided Steel ones you can find from a vendor here on this forum at a good price and note She's got a long hose on the bleeder going into a bottle, Nice. Makes it a lot cleaner Instead of shooting it all over the place