L98 to Lt1
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Ok that explains it. With that top ridge removed it is .60 over. I don't need to mess with this block right? I have seen, bored that much you can actually start losing power, weakens the cylinder and causes overheating. Thus the blown head gasket and overheating.
The LT1 heads are reverse cooling, however, you can weld the cooling holes and then drill the holes to line up with the block. With the intake you have to drill a hole for the dizzy and install a spacer. Then you have to replace your current large cap dizzy with a small cap hei one. Then finally you have to install a remote thermostat housing as the LT intake doesn't have provisions for the thermostat.
Ok. With all that said I found the intake and heads on ebay with all machine work done for $700. I purchased a distributor for I think a 92 IROC which was about $150 and got the thermostat housing from Summit for around $40. Not bad, just alot of work but I am enjoying it and I love this forum. I am going to Bowling Green for Labor Day, I am looking forward to going through there. Thanks everyone!
The LT1 heads are reverse cooling, however, you can weld the cooling holes and then drill the holes to line up with the block. With the intake you have to drill a hole for the dizzy and install a spacer. Then you have to replace your current large cap dizzy with a small cap hei one. Then finally you have to install a remote thermostat housing as the LT intake doesn't have provisions for the thermostat.
Ok. With all that said I found the intake and heads on ebay with all machine work done for $700. I purchased a distributor for I think a 92 IROC which was about $150 and got the thermostat housing from Summit for around $40. Not bad, just alot of work but I am enjoying it and I love this forum. I am going to Bowling Green for Labor Day, I am looking forward to going through there. Thanks everyone!
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Thanks PcolaPaul, I can still see the hone marks in the cylinder. Would you just leave those rings and pistons in? The reason I ask is the reason for the teardown was due to overheating and ultimately a blown head gasket. Also the oil pressure would start off around 30 psi and drop to about 6 at idle when reached normal temperature. You think I could replace the rod and main bearings and install a high volume pump and get that pressure back up without replacing cam bearings.
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Ok. Here is another question for someone to chime in on. Since the block is bored .60 over I am gonna leave it together. Are the LT heads gonna be ok on a .60 over block? Will I need special head gaskets?
Thanks
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,616
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Ok that explains it. With that top ridge removed it is .60 over. I don't need to mess with this block right? I have seen, bored that much you can actually start losing power, weakens the cylinder and causes overheating. Thus the blown head gasket and overheating.
The LT1 heads are reverse cooling, however, you can weld the cooling holes and then drill the holes to line up with the block. With the intake you have to drill a hole for the dizzy and install a spacer. Then you have to replace your current large cap dizzy with a small cap hei one. Then finally you have to install a remote thermostat housing as the LT intake doesn't have provisions for the thermostat.
Ok. With all that said I found the intake and heads on ebay with all machine work done for $700. I purchased a distributor for I think a 92 IROC which was about $150 and got the thermostat housing from Summit for around $40. Not bad, just alot of work but I am enjoying it and I love this forum. I am going to Bowling Green for Labor Day, I am looking forward to going through there. Thanks everyone!
The LT1 heads are reverse cooling, however, you can weld the cooling holes and then drill the holes to line up with the block. With the intake you have to drill a hole for the dizzy and install a spacer. Then you have to replace your current large cap dizzy with a small cap hei one. Then finally you have to install a remote thermostat housing as the LT intake doesn't have provisions for the thermostat.
Ok. With all that said I found the intake and heads on ebay with all machine work done for $700. I purchased a distributor for I think a 92 IROC which was about $150 and got the thermostat housing from Summit for around $40. Not bad, just alot of work but I am enjoying it and I love this forum. I am going to Bowling Green for Labor Day, I am looking forward to going through there. Thanks everyone!
That's a lot of modifying in my estimation to convert to an LT1 and then when that is done modifying the ECM or chip for the changes ....which you will want to accommodate the changes......interesting build though.....
Good luck..
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Yeah. I am gonna get my tune from lt1pcmtuning.com. Right now I am more worried about this.060 overbore.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 178
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From: Pensacola FL
Thanks PcolaPaul, I can still see the hone marks in the cylinder. Would you just leave those rings and pistons in? The reason I ask is the reason for the teardown was due to overheating and ultimately a blown head gasket. Also the oil pressure would start off around 30 psi and drop to about 6 at idle when reached normal temperature. You think I could replace the rod and main bearings and install a high volume pump and get that pressure back up without replacing cam bearings.
Check a rod and main bearing closest to the front of the engine. If they look good, no copper showing, new bearings wont help oil pressure. A new oil pump might help.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 178
Likes: 3
From: Pensacola FL
Just to be sure, place the head gasket on the block and make sure the sealing rings are not hanging over in the cylinder bore.
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 178
Likes: 3
From: Pensacola FL
There is plenty of meat left in the cylinder walls with a +.060 bore on a 350 block. Dont sweat it one bit. Small block fords, like a 302 have thinner castings than Chevy and .030 is about max.
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Ok guys, I am getting back on my engine. I had to take the summer off from it due to my job. Here are some updates. I went ahead and ditched the bored block, I didn't like the over bore at all. I got a roller block at standard bore. I installed all new pistons, rings and bearings. I had a forged crank in my old engine so I had it turned and I installed it. I installed the LT4 hotcam with new cam bearings. The LT heads are ported and I carried them to a machine shop and had the valves installed with good springs. I installed the intake and as I assumed required some removal of the egr section to get dizzy in but it is accomplished. Now waiting on pushrods so I can set up my valve train. I will post some pics of everything this afternoon. This has been a difficult build but I am enjoying it. My recommendation to anyone wanting to do this. Save your money and buy a mini ram from tpis and have your heads ported. You will probably get about the same gains or better and a lot easier.
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Yes I do believe the mini ram would bolt to vortec heads. I am pretty sure a Victor Jr will bolt to them without mods and a mini ram, I think, is the same bolt pattern as a Victor Jr.