So I'm still trying to decide what to do next.

I'm redoing an 86 coupe that I picked up for cheap and now I have to decide how far to go with the engine on my time / budget.

The engine has approx 80k miles on it. (Maybe...). At least that is what I was told by the PO.

I have lots of valve tick and an uneven idle which I believe is more related to a bad tune and vacuum leaks than anything more sinister. Engine has cast iron heads that appear to be stock for an early 86.

I picked up a set of zz4 113 heads, with low mile, from a guy (he swapped to AFR's) for $150.

I currently have an Accel SuperRam with 58mm BBK TB and 24# injectors. Full MSD ignition box, coil and dizzy. 1 5/8" LT's with 2.5" duals, x-pipe, no cats, egr delete. I also have a set of 25# rotary disc injectors on the shelf.

I have a valve cover leak on passenger side and the input seal on the tranny is leaking a little.

My options are some of the following. (I'm also open to suggestions.)

1. With engine in place, yank the cast iron heads, inspect the cylinder bores, throw zz4 heads on, change cam, cross fingers...

2. Yank the engine out, freshen the rings, seals and bearings, zz4 heads, new cam, repair tranny seal (touch up or replace internals as needed.), rinse, repeat...

3. 383 build (cheap as possible at this point. Can't afford forged parts right now unless I buy used). zz4 heads, cam, repair tranny seal (starting to notice a pattern yet??? )

4. low cost 406 build. I found a complete fresh rebuilt 400 - .030 over for $650. Not so sure if drilling steam holes in the zz4's is a good idea or not. Probably cam change. All else the same.

What I've decided I'm not doing right now is investing in any other heads. I would love to have a set of afr 195's but, that would put all other work out of scope. I am also going to keep the tranny and converter stock right now so, no huge cams at this point. Reason is I want to do a 6-speed swap / d-44 later when cash allows.

I'm inclined to yank the heads in place to get a better feel for the engine condition but, I would still have to pull the engine to fix the tranny seal. Just feels like double work at this point.

If I pull the engine then I'm going to do a pre-inspection myself. I have a full compliment of precision measuring tools to determine bore run-out, egging and surface condition. (worked as a machinist apprentice when I was younger) I'm not that familiar with iron push rod blocks. Can I disassemble the mains to inspect the bearing surfaces or does that trash them for re-use? Do these engines hold up well or is it likely that I am going to find the block in desperate need of shop work? I have a knee mill and shop lathe but anything dealing with boring or line honing would be better done at the pro shop.

Basically, I'm trying to draw the line on useless work if I stay with the stock engine as, I am sure in the next 2-3 years (10k miles or less) that I will be doing something different. Left to my own devices I tend to over do things.

So given $1000 - $1500 budget, the starting car/parts I have listed and a full compliment of tools on a non-daily driver, what would your plan of attack be? I want the best SOTP feel I can get. Doubt I'll do any track time until I sort out the tranny and rear later. Ohhh, And my driving style is short hole shots, highway cruising and lots-o-twisties... . I like being able to roll on the power coming out of a turn.

And I have a separate attack plan / budget for the suspension so we can just concentrate on the drive line here.

 

I think you only have the budget to go to step 2

 

I spent 1500 looking for parts......let me know how you modify a L98 on a budget....perhaps you shoud have bought a chev vette...

 

Ok... Let's clarify this... I know I can't get a full, top of the line performance 383 build for $1500. I CAN get a crank regrind with correct rods, pistons and ring kit with necessary block work (All no name brand parts, I'm sure) local here in Phoenix, AZ and still slide in under the wire. Honestly, this is not an option I am seriously considering.

I have found a COMPLETE fresh rebuilt 406 long block for $650. I'm sure the heads are less than desirable and the cam is probably going to need changed but the question was if this would work reasonably well with the parts I already have or would this be a step backwards? As I don't know what brands or parts were used in the rebuild, is it worth taking a chance or is it run away time?

I'm not asking how to build a 400+ hp engine on $1500. I'm asking what is the best bang for my buck knowing what I have right now. I'm asking for a strategy here... "Put money here this time and next year look at this" type strategy.

 

sorry,,,just kidding........there is a website...vader86......do a search....it explains all you can do to an L98 ..what's good, what doesn't work....I 'm assuming you know corvettes are controlled by complex sensors and ecms and "stuff"....i't just not a matter of bolting crap on...mods like you're talking about will require serious "TUNING"....when I took off the egr/smog pump/ and installed headers and new heads, it cost me 700 bucks to get the chip retuned....some guys can do it themselves...I just happen to think computers make good boat anchors so I pay someone else....just sayin, no cheap fixes to upgrade a vet engine......the forum is a great place....they'll help you do all you want...'
you'll get more help if you list you threads for one single issue at a time...
good luck..

 

Friend has a running (in the car) 030over 406 hes selling now. Not too far from AZ may have some edelbrock alum heads for you too. Better than the ZZ4 but probably affordable
Hes a long time member here pm if interested Ill put you two together. 406 and SR would be a kick in the azz on the street.

For the cost and all the work to pull a motor on one of these it doesnt always make sense to build a 350 again unless youre happy with the stock power.

 

Repeat after me: Locomotive torque.

 

Grab that 400 and do that one. Those r nice and thats a good price. I love those 400's They put out real good Torque from like 2000 rpm to about 5000 rpm with little money

 

Just drill a few holes and use the good heads
http://www.gregsengine.com/convertin...ds-to-400.html

 

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Chevy_heads
Drilling these steam holes is not really a big deal. I don't even think any machine shop anywhere would charge more than a hundred if u didn't want to do it. The intake mod is a nice thing too.
400 Rock and at 600 bucks for a fresh motor and u could use ur heads is a lot of power cheep

 

I would take things one step at a time. First, get your current engine running properly and start driving the car. When you have a driveable Corvette then your mind can relax a little and over some period of time, you wil be able to make a decision which will be proper for you.

Seems like right now you are overwhelmed with options and it might be best to give your mind a little break before you decide what to do. After driving the car for a while you may decided to do nothing - just leave it the way it is and enjoy the thing.

You can always modify things later - when the finances are not such a large part of the equation.

Just a few thoughts - other opinions have and will be different -

Best -

Jake

 

Sorry about the long delay in responding... Got blasted at work with deadlines and then one of my home ac units failed (Bad situation to have in Phoenix in the summer ) so I had to get a new replacement.

I wanted to thank you all for the responses and a big thanks to cuisinartvette for the info on the 406. I just don't have time to run over to Cali right now.

When I was getting the new AC hardware I stopped over to look at the 406 that I told you about before. I gave a quick visual and ended up getting it for $400. (Figured it was at least worth that). Anywho... I finally got a chance to look it over last night.

Guy picked the engine up in an estate sale with an 85% complete 1941 *****'s pickup in Allentown,PA and had it shipped out to Phoenix. Ended up selling the truck and had the engine left. Engine is fresh rebuilt and has never been fired yet.

Heads are as expected (junk 493's). It's a shame because someone spent some time and money reworking them with screw in studs, moroso guides, double valve springs and valve job. No porting done to them though.

I yanked them to inspect the bores and it is indeed a fresh .30 over rebuild with new Sealed Power forged pistons and the 400 crank. The oil galleries have been tapped and plugged. Freeze plugs aren't installed yet. I haven't pulled the cam yet to check the numbers and manufacturer yet. Maybe next weekend if time permits. Double roller timing set.

So, with the zz4 heads and depending on head gasket thickness I should be anywhere from 10.25 to 10.6 compression.

It should be interesting to tune. I have a moates datalogger and a moates chip burner but, I'm thinking about getting an Ostrich so that I can do direct uploads.

What's the thoughts? Worth working it or dump it (I'm pretty sure I can get my money back out of it) and do something else? I know those Sealed Power pistons are on the heavy side but, they are forged.

more to come when I get the cam specs.

 

That's Great and I don't get it man. Dump it. Why? If it's a true 400 with a fresh .030 overbore with new parts and you got it for 400 bucks. Go play the loto man. Those are great motors and it's a big bore with a long stroke. Those put out enormous amounts of torque from down low at about 2200 rpm all the way up to 5000 grand or so depending on the build

 

I'd be dancing in my garage with a redone 400 short block for 400 bucks
The 113's are the best heads of the bunch and with a lot of hogging with a dremel and poet matching everything, I'd be building a stock looking Torque monster Sleeper. Check this out
http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

 

or this
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/h...k_chevy_build/

 

Thanks for the article links. I was just not sure about the pistons. Read some less than stellar reviews about the Sealed Power (AKA old TRW design) pistons. I knew I was getting a good deal but I wasn't aware that 400's had become that hard to come by. When I was a teenager you could shake a tree at any junk yard and have them raining down on you.

I'm going to stud the mains to increase durability. Are head studs a good idea with these siamesed blocks or is it just the same to run bolts? I was looking at the 170k psi ARP sets.

Does anybody have a cam recommendation for a setup like this? Something that could live in front of a stock converter (Maybe borderline live... ).