Idle and stall problems solved
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,714
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana
Cruise-In III Veteran
Idle and stall problems solved
Last week I bought a MAF to hopefully solve a surging idle. After putting it on it would stall and the check engine light would come on. After a few days of waiting for my neighbor to look at it I decided to just unplug and plug the MAF about 4 times. I have had no problems since yesterday. Runs like a champ. I guess corroded plug-ins are to blame.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 253
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Re: Idle and stall problems solved (poppy)
I'm chasing down the same problem. :smash: Getting a code 34. But it's intermittent. I have a warm start problem and it seems that if the engine doesn't start right away, and cranks for 3 or 4 seconds, that's when the SES light comes on. :mad
I tried to open up the MAF burn off relay, but it wouldn't open up. I can hear it cycle for its 2 seconds after engine turn off, like it's suppose to. It does its 'thing' afte the engine has been running for a little while, so if you're testing this relay, it won't do its 'thing' just by turning the ignition on and off.
That means that it might be the MAF power relay. I'm hearing $15 for this, but I don't know if that's from the dealer or Ekler's, etc.
I like the suggestion that you have about dirty connectors. :yesnod: I'll try that, too.
BTW - I've been reading the book on this. The MAF looks for things during initial start. I've had warm/hot starting problems and thought that had something to do with this. I've cleaned the TB and checked the IAC (.65V for performance and 4.65V at WOT).
But I never checked the low idle with the IAC unplugged (ask for instructions before you try this) because the screw cap had never been pulled (assumption). I had trouble starting the motor. I couldn't keep the engine running with my foot off the gas. I cranked the idle screw a few turns and that got it to idle at about 300 rpm (external gauge), but not too well. I turned it up to 450 rpm.
My low TPS reading was at .72V now! Re-adjust to .54V and confirmed 4.65V. All of this was yesterday and last night.
Today, I get another 3-4 seconds of cranking and another code 34 :smash: :smash: :boxing :boxing :cry :cry And yes, I had cleared the old codes.
I'll check and clean up the MAF connectors, and maybe pick up the MAF power relay. I just hate to but parts if it's not proven BAD!!
:cuss :cuss
I tried to open up the MAF burn off relay, but it wouldn't open up. I can hear it cycle for its 2 seconds after engine turn off, like it's suppose to. It does its 'thing' afte the engine has been running for a little while, so if you're testing this relay, it won't do its 'thing' just by turning the ignition on and off.
That means that it might be the MAF power relay. I'm hearing $15 for this, but I don't know if that's from the dealer or Ekler's, etc.
I like the suggestion that you have about dirty connectors. :yesnod: I'll try that, too.
BTW - I've been reading the book on this. The MAF looks for things during initial start. I've had warm/hot starting problems and thought that had something to do with this. I've cleaned the TB and checked the IAC (.65V for performance and 4.65V at WOT).
But I never checked the low idle with the IAC unplugged (ask for instructions before you try this) because the screw cap had never been pulled (assumption). I had trouble starting the motor. I couldn't keep the engine running with my foot off the gas. I cranked the idle screw a few turns and that got it to idle at about 300 rpm (external gauge), but not too well. I turned it up to 450 rpm.
My low TPS reading was at .72V now! Re-adjust to .54V and confirmed 4.65V. All of this was yesterday and last night.
Today, I get another 3-4 seconds of cranking and another code 34 :smash: :smash: :boxing :boxing :cry :cry And yes, I had cleared the old codes.
I'll check and clean up the MAF connectors, and maybe pick up the MAF power relay. I just hate to but parts if it's not proven BAD!!
:cuss :cuss
