I know this has been discussed a million times but I just can't seem to find a answer.. My 84 crossfire is going to be swapped with a holley carb.. As for the transmission do I need to wire the lockup converter to a switch? What wires go where if so.. Also for the fuel pump is there an in tank replacement I could use? Or do I have to do the return style regulator? Other than that I think I got it all. Thanks for the help..

 

Does your 84 not have a return fuel line?

 

It does but I don't have a bypass regulator

 

Very straight forward then. Use a bypass regulator like Aeromotive 3301 or Mallory 4309. Just remember, pumps produce flow, not pressure. So as long as your in tank pump flows enough fuel at 5 psi, then you can leave it in place.

 

There are some older gm cars that had 6 psi intank fuel pumps along with a mechanical pump and also some import cars had them too. Much easier to just get a mallory 4309 return style fpr and use the existing return line. You will need a corrector carb bracket for your holley carb for your trans tv cable to get your trans to shift correctly and to not burn it out. There are various converter lock up kits available to keep your lock up function. On my carbed 84 I dropped the pan and installed a gm normally open pressure switch on the 4th gear pressure port and ran a wire from the tcc solenoid ground terninal(black wire) to the new 4th gear pressure switch. This will lock the converter in 4th gear only, 2nd and 3rd lock up are deleted. You can splice a toggle switch into the pink/black(I think) power wire that goes to the trans connector on the side of the trans. This will allow you to lock and unlock the converter in 4th gear. You will need a 1/2" phenolic resin carb to intake spacer to prevent fuel perc which you will almost certainly have.

 

I don't think mine has the cable for the trans... All I seen was a throttle cable. And I didn't want to spent the $90 on a tcc lockup kit.. Anyway to do it with a toggle switch?

 

I was wrong it does have the TV cable. Just looked again. Is that just a holley tv cable bracket?

 

What is the correct procedure for adjusting the TV cable?

 

This is a good regulator and a little cheaper that the others.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=773419

 

$75. When I did an TBI > Carb conversion (4 cylinder TBI to V8 in a Jeep), I used the stock TBI FPR and it cost me $0.00.


The quick way is to push the button in the cable assy by the TB, the pull or retract the cable all the way...then got to WOT and the cable travel will "bottom" and pull the cable housing through the mounting (button) until WOT is reached.

The BEST way to set the TV cable is to hook a pressure gauge to the main line in the trans, and watch line pressure. You want to set the cable so that line pressure jumps to >100 PSI as soon as the throttle moves off the throttle stop.

 

How'd you use the stock regulator?

 

A little fabrication.



I removed the reulator houusing from the TB.

Then I cut the potion off that goes to the injector, filled the port that went to the injector w/JB Weld.

In the pic above, the part of the casting that is raised and has a "round" spot? I drilled and tapped that for a 1/8" NPT, IIRC.

On the other side, I simply used the existing outlet/return port and tapped that for a 1/8" NPT also. Then I screwed in two 1/8" NPT brass nipples. Those were my "inlet" and "outlet" to the regulator.

I simply hooked the feed hose from the fuel pump to the "inlet", then the return hose to the "outlet". Now everything between the fuel pump and the regulator is going to be regulator set pressure. Install a "T" in that line before the regulator, and run that line to your carb. Carb will always see your set pressure. Turn the adjusting screw all the way in to drop the pressure all the way down which should get you to ~7-8 PSI. If that is too much, cut 1 coil off the spring in the regulator, and then readjust to suit your desired pressure.

I did ^that about 5 years ago and it's still running great w/a Q-Jet carb., on the stock in-tank electric fuel pump.

 

Do you have a picture of what it looks like finished? Also when I adjust the TV cable and push the throttle to the floor then let up should it have a little slack in the cable?

 

Well, I don't work at the place I did that for any longer, but since I am still friends w/the folks who do work there....I'll see if they can snap a pic of it and text it to me. It isn't pretty, but it works. I could be made to look nice if that were important; fab a nice little bracket, polish it and clear coat it...it could look cool.

TV cable, I think it should have a little tension at all times. It's been a Loooong time since I set one and the last one I did was with the pressure gauge.

 

When I converted my 84 a long time ago, I found the factory service manual invaluable. Pretty much every thing you need to know will be in there.

 

Only thing is that I don't have a pressure gauge.

 

If it's an 84, it does have a cable.

Adjusting the cable, from ALLDATA:

Also (and this is difficult to describe) make sure the pivot point for the cable on your carb setup is at least the same distance from the center of the throttle rod that works the butterflys as it is on your CF linkage.

The reason for this (and I've seen it happen) is that some aftermarket setups are CLOSER to the rod than it was stock.. This results in the wrong RATE of rise, and will burn your transmission. It may even look fine @ max pressure on a gauge, but the rate is low and damage results.

And I know the "switch" is a popular mod with a lot of vette owners? But I hate it and you really should be careful doing this, as it can be dangerous, depending.

(Like jumping PSI switches and hard wiring the thing is the worst way to do it. You bump that switch in the garage? And you're liable to end up pinning someone to the far wall with your vette and killing them.)

So if you have to do it, do it in a way that makes sense and retain the brake light switch and the PSI switches as safety features. If you do it right, you can actually omit the toggle switch entirely. Or, you can add it as another layer of safety.

Here's a diagram from my 85 (Yours will be similar) with the PSI switch and brake switch intact.

In this instance, all you have to do to turn the TCC on is ground (sink) the Tan/Black wire 422 there.. The PSI Switch will kill it when drops from 4th and so will stabbing the brake pedal.

One of the biggest annoyances of defeating the computer and doing it this way is that you get lockup stacked on top of the 4th gear shift.

The easiest way to avoid this is to change the psi switch for one with a delay built in..

Also.. Have you considered going with a TPI setup instead? They're way, way cool.. Torquey and cheap!

Good Luck.

 

This is very true ! I used the factory manual and diagrams that come with it to help me remove the ECM and ALL of the wires in the harness associated with it. It really cleaned things up. I could not have done it without the manual and diagrams.

 

Or just spending a little time and a LOT less $$$ getting the CFI working better? They're way, way cool.. Torquey and cheap!

 

I have thought about the tpi.. Hard for me to find the complete setup.. Wiring ecu and intake... Does someone know where a cheap one is?