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If it's just blowing ambient temp air at you more than likely it's leaked out all of the R12 that was in the system. A gauge should confirm this and then you will need to decide how much you want to spend to either temporarily band aid the system or do a overhaul and convert to the new standard. I am in the same boat on my 93....
I converted my 87 over 3yrs ago, still blowing cold air. Replaced the compressor, evap and condenser and all Orings. Held a vacuum overnight so then refilled with oil and R134. Spent about $700 in parts and weekend of work.
automotive a/c work pays better than Beverly Hills plastic surgery.
Mota-City stated that he spent about $700 for a DIY repair/restore job. A few yrs ago.
A/C is not cheap.
To do a general repair or upgrade....
a shop will want to do what is known as "firewall forward" work.
I've never seen a FF job for less than $1200.
Yeah, thats gonna sting a lil.
FireWall Forward means exactly what it sounds like....
everything from the firewall, forward is or will be, NEW. They refuse to reuse any old parts so they can "warranty" their work. Thing is, when they do a FF job its not "them" thats warranting anything....its the part and equip mfg thats providing all the warranty back-up. They do it this way to 'strong-arm' the customer into paying for the work.
They get away with this by citing all the EPA regulation and the FINES and/or prison time involved for improper disposal of gasses or contaminated materials from unda the hood. Not from, but unda.
Its possible to replace a compressor and do a conversion for less than $350 at home. BUT, you have to have some skills, tools and a friend or two in the bidness.......
Get some more info and I am certain that we CAN get it fixed, here, for lots less than $1200...LOTS and LOTS of people here that KNOW their auto a/c stuff !
The first thing to determine is whether or not the compressor is working. You can check the clutch with the engine off. Turn on the ignition and switch the HVAC system from vent to AC and back. You should be able to hear the clutch click. It's pretty loud so it shouldn't be a problem to hear it.
If the compressor clutch works then start the engine and run the AC for 5 minutes or so at at least 2000 RPM (drive around the block). Feel the various AC lines. Some should be cold, some should be warm. Basically all the lines should be cold except for the one that goes from the evaporator to the condenser, which should be warm. If you don't have cold AC lines then either the compressor is bad or the refrigerant has leaked out.
If the compressor clutch does not work then it is either bad (measure with an ohmmeter to check or apply 12 volts directly to the clutch) or there is a problem between the HVAC control panel and the clutch. That could be a bad connector pin or bad wires.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Sep 6, 2014 at 10:43 PM.
The first thing to determine is whether or not the compressor is working. You can check the clutch with the engine off. Turn on the ignition and switch the HVAC system from vent to AC and back. You should be able to hear the clutch click. It's pretty loud so it shouldn't be a problem to hear it.
If the compressor clutch does not work, then it is either bad or there is a problem between the HVAC control panel and the clutch.
If the compressor clutch does not work, you may be low on refrigerant. With the engine off, what is your system pressure?