Originally Posted by corvetteracer72

This is getting interesting ...

Sorry for the stoopid question , but what happens if the car drops into open loop ?
I just got a pair of Hedman's and I am about to ditch the air sistem and install the headers .
Thanks.

Originally Posted by corvetteracer72

This is getting interesting ...

Sorry for the stoopid question , but what happens if the car drops into open loop ?
I just got a pair of Hedman's and I am about to ditch the air sistem and install the headers .

Also I've seen that those heated sensors have 2 wires . My 85 has only one .
Any ideea on where to plug the second sensor wire ?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by corvetteracer72

Also I've seen that those heated sensors have 2 wires . My 85 has only one .
Any ideea on where to plug the second sensor wire ?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001

I also did a smog delete on my L98. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.

I put long tube headers on the car, so I didn't have the AIR tubes on the exhaust manifold. However, the check valves on the air tubes (the parts that connect the manifold and the rubber air line coming to the manifold) actually are a 'cap' on the manifold. So if you pull the rubber lines off, you will effectively have capped the headers.

I also deleted my cat with this project, so the AIR line to it is gone as well. If I remeber correctly, it wad crimped or welded on. So you could buy a new cat without air hookup (expensive and hard), or you can cut the air line and weld it shut at the cat. Finally, you could leave the line run to the cat, since there is a check valve for this line on the passenger side of the engine bay. This would be easiest.

As for connections, you can remove all of the air system, including the solenoids and the metal and rubber lines. The connectors for the solenoids can be taped up or cut off and taped, the vacuum line can be plugged.

Originally Posted by Markever234

Its a T-connection that runs under the plenum and connects to the fuel pressure reg and then to the rear of the manifold.. Do I cap those? or do I have to make a new vacuum connection?

Also the electrical connections to the air system.. I think they are called check valves. What did you do with those?

Lastly, there is a large air line left that I cant see where it goes no matter how I angle.. It was attached to one of the check valves right next to the water pump and runs straight down towards the crank. How did you remove this one? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Originally Posted by Markever234

Thank you for replying.. I followed what you said and I just have a few more obstacles, if you could help that would be great. There was a vacuum line connected to the air system that I don't know what to do with... Its a T-connection that runs under the plenum and connects to the fuel pressure reg and then to the rear of the manifold.. Do I cap those? or do I have to make a new vacuum connection? Also the electrical connections to the air system.. I think they are called check
valves. What did you do with those? Lastly, there is a large air line left
that I cant see where it goes no matter how I angle.. It was attached to one of the check valves right next to the water pump and runs straight down towards the crank. How did you remove this one? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Originally Posted by TheBlaster9001

A pair of golf tees to plug the T connector. The electrical connectors aren't check valves. I think there was one for each solenoid, two connectors total. Just tape them off with electrical tape.
The tube going down is where the AIR system diverts air that isn't used in the headers/cats - it is a silencer valve, I left mine on. It just goes down to a baffle, so you won't hear the air rush out. It is just waste air.

Originally Posted by Markever234

You're a life-saver, sir. I may have the vette ready for the beginning of
summer after all.. Did you cap the silencer valve or just leave it open?

Originally Posted by Markever234

You're a life-saver, sir. I may have the vette ready for the beginning of
summer after all.. Did you cap the silencer valve or just leave it open?

Originally Posted by 65Z01

You don't mention the year but I assume a L98 due to the presence of the damn AIR system.
You can look at the belt routing to see if a shorter belt could be used with the missing AIR pump pulley.

The AIR passages have check valves so no problem there.

The EGR is separate from the AIR system. Here you can block off the EGR tube holes, run a line from the EGR command line to the EGR Temp sensor line, with a diode inserted to fool the ECM should it call for EGR. If you run a 160 deg T-stat the ECM should never call for EGR during highway crusing.

I've been thinking of eliminating both AIR & EGR from my '88. Let us know if you are able to simple eliminate the AIR pulley and use a shorter belt.

Originally Posted by WW7

If your going to do it just for a power increase, forget it, you can spin the air pump with your finger and it will keep spinning, (very little friction)...Most do it to clean up the engine bay.. It also makes it easier to remove the driver side valve cover......WW

Originally Posted by Vettefreak2383

I have been looking in to the air pump and what it actually does. I am thinking of putting a turbo on my 88' 35 anniversary addition. Can I put the turbo in place if the air pump?

Looking at the comments it doesn't seem reasonable to discard the air pump. You will gain nothing really in the long run.

I thought the air pump was used to push more air in to the throttle body

Originally Posted by aklim

If you can route it, more power to you.

I beg to differ. You gain easier access to the motor without running into stuff especially if you have to take things out. You don't have the AIR tubes going into the headers to contend with.

It is an air pump since it pumps air. Actually, many refer to it as an AIR pump as in Air Injection Reaction. It's job is to push air into the exhaust manifold when it is colder to aid in conversion process and when it gets to light off temp for the cat, it diverts air into the cat. It's an emissions thing.

Originally Posted by Bwbob

Ould you PM me about your glass pack? I dont want to jack this thread but i looked at doing the exact same thing and would like to hear how it turned out.

Originally Posted by MSGT-R

When I removed my system, I replaced the cat with a short glasspack from Summit, and a couple of slipjoint connectors. Keeps the sound down so you can still hear your radio

Originally Posted by Stephenms

After a recent upper rebuild I've been thinking more and more about deleting the AIR pump.

I've been doing research about it and was wondering what you guys think would be the best approach to doing this project. Instead of getting a smog pump delete pulley could I run a smaller belt? I have access to all shapes and sizes of belts because I work at an Advance Auto. Plugging the vacuum ports and EGR? So on so forth.

I've been thinking of gutting the air pump itself and just using it as the pulley delete. 130 dollars for the delete kit is a little ridiculous. Down here in Florida we don't have any sort of emissions testing so I don't have anything to worry about. My water pump is a new aluminum so I don't want to purchase a reverse flow pump if I don't have to.

Originally Posted by Nokones

If you decide to take off the smog pump, use a belt from a 1990 C2500 Pickup. The 90 C2500 Pickup was not equipped with a smog pump thus, the belt would be the correct length.

Originally Posted by aklim

Would it route right? I could have sworn that when we tried it, there was an issue which necessitated the pulley? I would love to do without the pulley but I would think (based on memory a lifetime ago) that we had an issue with it running in stock form less the pulley.