When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here is how I did it with no extra pulley. All components are running in the correct direction. It requires a 2" spacer, an 84.5 belt and I angled the thermostat housing and used the original belt. If you don't tilt the housing up the belt rubs the radiator hose. The spacer and bracket for the alternator are from Summit Racing.
when you stated run a line from the EGR command line to the EGR Temp sensor line with a diode inserted to fool the ecm,...
When the ECM wants EGR is pulls the control line low to activate the valve.
It then checks the temp sensor line in the exhaust to verify that exhaust gas is flowing. When exhaust is flowing the sensor pulls the sense line low. So feeding back the command line to this feedback line fools the computer into seeing that the EGR functions is working properly.
I like the diode in the line to isolate command from feedback until needed.
Here is how I did it with no extra pulley. All components are running in the correct direction. It requires a 2" spacer, an 84.5 belt and I angled the thermostat housing and used the original belt. If you don't tilt the housing up the belt rubs the radiator hose. The spacer and bracket for the alternator are from Summit Racing.
So why go through the trouble? Wouldn't it be easier to buy the pulley with the appropriate bracket and be done with it?
Here is how I did it with no extra pulley. All components are running in the correct direction. It requires a 2" spacer, an 84.5 belt and I angled the thermostat housing and used the original belt. If you don't tilt the housing up the belt rubs the radiator hose. The spacer and bracket for the alternator are from Summit Racing.
I did it that way first but just didn't like the way it looked so thats when I built the other setup like normal delete.
Hi, sorry to revive this thread. This response is the closest I have been able to get to what I am trying to do. My question is, if I remove everything AIR pump related, can I leave the pump and just cap the one port that goes out of it into the metal line (held by two screws on the right side of the pump) and let it run or do I NEED to gut it also?
Hi, sorry to revive this thread. This response is the closest I have been able to get to what I am trying to do. My question is, if I remove everything AIR pump related, can I leave the pump and just cap the one port that goes out of it into the metal line (held by two screws on the right side of the pump) and let it run or do I NEED to gut it also?
didn't read all of these posts, but I know some must have said why bother with all that when there are brackets and a pulley available to replace it all??? Unless you gut it, it'll be a drag on the engine....won't get the benefits of removing it....
Yes the aftermarket bracket and pulley are the go to recommendation but the only benefit I'm interested in is clearing up the engine bay. I'm wondering if the drag is the same if I cap off the pump as when it is working, or if there is an increase in resistance from being capped off with nowhere for the "pumped air" to go. If it's the same and I'm only missing out on the power gains from a freely rotating pulley, I would rather keep the stock pump and only remove everything else. But if the drag gets worse on a closed off AIR pump then I will have no choice but to gut it and look into getting a delete kit. Thanks for your input.
Yes the aftermarket bracket and pulley are the go to recommendation but the only benefit I'm interested in is clearing up the engine bay. I'm wondering if the drag is the same if I cap off the pump as when it is working, or if there is an increase in resistance from being capped off with nowhere for the "pumped air" to go. If it's the same and I'm only missing out on the power gains from a freely rotating pulley, I would rather keep the stock pump and only remove everything else. But if the drag gets worse on a closed off AIR pump then I will have no choice but to gut it and look into getting a delete kit. Thanks for your input.
I made my own, wasn't expense or hard to do...and looks alot cleaner
