Hello,

85 was vandalized on the windshield molding yesterday (at least I think that's what it's called). It this the metal piece (drivers side) running over the edge of the windshield. Someone put 2 dents in it (and I have 2 suspects).. almost like they hit it with a small hammer.

After lots of looking, I think I've found the part (some say it's discontinued, but I think GM EOM parts resellers offer it). Has anyone removed this and replaced this? Can the windshield stay in the car to do this? This is the original windshield.

My other thought is that I put body filler to the dents and respray. If I go that route I know it will not be perfect given the way the dent pushed side of this metal trim piece.

Any advice is very much appreciated. Thanks

 

Too much trouble to replace it for that. You'll probably also end up having to replace the A pillar weatherstripping as well and readjust the top. Also sometimes the weatherstrip retainers get banged up and bend on removal.

 

Shoot 2 suspects as a preventive measure...

 

Yes, the black windshield trim can be replaced without removing the windshield.

Just, remove the "A" pillar plastic interior trim and Targa top. Then, just carefully pull out the weatherstrip and metal weatherstrip retainer strips.

Next, I can't remember exactly since it's been awhile but, the windshield trim should be able to be unscrewed and removed.

 

Thanks for your replies. So when doing this, can I expect to ruin the A pillar weatherstripping or will I be able to reuse the original piece? (it's in perfect shape now)

 

The "A" pillar weatherstripping just peels right out of the channels.

 

Excellent. Thanks for your help.

 

I do not think it 'just peels out'..(God knows...I wish it did)...The weatherstrip is glued in place....or should be (and was from the factory)...and if it is NOT glued.... you can open up a lot of problems with water damage over time....and do not ask me know I KNOW THIS.

NO interior trim is required to remove the outer windshield molding...this I do not for a mfact.

The targa roof does need to be removed...obviously

using 3M 8984 can aid in softening the glue GM used when they glued in the 'A' pillar weatherstrip. Be careful with the black plastic push in pins that are used at the bottoms of the 'A' pillar weatherstrip...and at the top of the 'A' pillar.

DUB

 

The metal weatherstrip channels are secured with adhesive from the factory to the windshield frame and the weatherstrip is just pressed into the metal channel slots.

The weatherstrip ends are secured with a dab of adhesive from the factory too.

When I installed the new windshield weatherstrip on my 91 Vette, I installed the weatherstrip the same way it came out which was with No Adhesive.

My 91 does not leak a drop of water! ...

 

Sorry...I can not remain silent on this.

NO they are NOT. The top windshield trim has the weatherstrip track riveted to it. This molding has a closed cell foam tape on it so when it gets SCREWED to the windshield frame...it seals it off.. Once again...sorry to repeat myself...the 'A' pillar weatherstrip is GLUED from end to end. NOT an opinion...BUT FACT.


YES..adhesive along with the small black plastic push-in pins to hold it in place also.


It may not leak water inside....but IF glue or some type of sealant is not used...I can tell you from EXPERIENCE...because I work on these cars for a living...when the weatherstrip is removed...do not be surprised that you windshield fame and be badly rusted. Or I guess the 5+ Corvettes that have had catastrophic rust damage was just dumb luck...even though I could pull the weatherstrip out and NO glue was used. And the heads of the screws were about impossible to remove due to being rusted away.

Also...the side molding need to have the same closed cell foam tape used so then it gets installed and contact the steel windshield frame...it is sealed up...even if a non-hardening sealant is also used. Then the metal tracks for the pillars also uses a closed cell foam that seals it to the molding that was just installed.

GKK..you can do what you want with what you have. I personally/professionally do not have any issues with what you do. But my comments are for those who want to know how it needs to be done and how it was done. Because the countless 1984-1996 Corvettes that I have worked on in the windshield area are all the same. The amount of glue used may vary....but it is there.... none the less...along with some other sealing products that aid in stopping water leaks.

DUB

 

Thanks for the input to all - it's really good to get some advice. I have not worked with weatherstrip before.

I took off the a pillar plastic trim (had to remove the top trim just to get the side trim to come off - included removing the rear view mirror and the sun visor). As far as I can see, the bottom of the weatherstripping comes out of the channel by lifting it up with my thumb. The top of the weatherstrip isn't moving at all when I pull on it - seems pretty stuck in there. So, I don't know how that comes out (glued, non glued, pinched).





I read about retaining clips and possibly some metal bar, but don't know where those are. Are those clips supposed to come off before the weatherstrip comes off?

Also, I see these black plugs at the very top and bottom of the a pillar weatherstrip (photo). On the very bottom of the A pillar, I do see some evidence of some black adhesive (door jamb). What are these plugs (are these the retaining clips?).





The last photo is of the dents courtesy of some moron that I must find. If the car was a total mess, I might live with it.. but it's in GREAT shape for it's age (unlike its owner)



Thanks for the advice and ideas.

 

Dub,

I guess I'm just not describing the procedure in writing correctly...

As long as the metal weatherstrip retainers are secured to the frame with adhesive or the factory foam tape between the two, the weatherstrip is then installed by just pressing in place and secured on the ends with the plastic pins and dab of adhesive.

I installed the windshield myself since I've heard of all the rust stories and found my frame to be rust free and leak free since doing this procedure 7 years ago.

I don't doubt your procedure at all but, just describing how my OEM Pilkington windshield and weatherstrip was assembled from the factory, (My 91 Vette had No adhesive sealing the weatherstrip to the weatherstrip retainer channels).





.

 

I believe that the ORIGINAL windshield was still being made by LOF ( Libby Owens Ford)...and NOT Pilkington...and I can not remember when it started...but I know by 1993 they were used...But LOF began using a higher UV resistant chemical in the glass process and it was called 'E-Z-KOOL' or ' KOOL-OFF'.. SO a Pilkington glass is not factory in 1991....or at least I have NEVER seen an original Corvette with a Pilkington windshield in it.....because all the other glass is LOF... and I have seen hundreds.....which can also be why there was not glue in the tracks. I know of true original 1996's and they have LOF windshields in them.

Unless your car was one of 'those cars' that come out of the factory different than the mass collective....but very highly doubtful. It must have been replaced at one time or another.

I am glad that you do not have any rust beginning...but as I wrote...there is a reason why it should be sealed up....but do as you wish and do not believe me...I truly do not care.

DUB

 

DUB, some new information...I just looked at my 91 Vette and remembered that the Original windshield was made by LOF and the replacement is made by FY.

I also, replaced my 91 Vettes driver side door glass and found the original to be made by LOF and the replacement made by Pilkington.

Sorry, for posting the wrong info!...

 

Not a problem at all. I do not EVERYTHING...but many things I do know for a fact due to dealing with so many over the years...and I honestly prefer to make sure information is correct. THANK YOU for responding. It speaks VOLUMES about your character.

I HONESTLY hope you NEVER have a rust issue on the windshield frame.

And another thing...I have come across SOOOOOO MANY windshields that have been replaced where glass tech used urethane instead of the correct sealing materials and compounds...and WATER gets under the trim molding and RUST occurs. Every time I have to deal with one that has failed.... I use words that should not be spoken towards the glass tech who did a VERY POOR job. This "Just goop it up and let it go" mentality just ticks me off to no end.

DUB

 

What I'm doing is removing the torx factory screws on the A pillar weatherstrip trim. I think they used a something like GM strip caulk on the threads. Well I cleaned all of that off. Then got some new screws. Went with:

Dorman 961-220

http://www.autozone.com/fasteners/sc...nt/493529_0_0/

They have two screws in that pack. I used the screws that had the larger round base on the head. Then covered the threads with high temp thread sealant and screwed them end tightly and wiped up the thread sealant that squeezed out. I figure the large base on the screw head and using thread sealant should prevent any water/moisture from getting to the screw threads. I then put on a thin layer of black RTV silicone sealant on and around the screw head. Probably could have ordered some Stainless Steel or Nickel screw and not worry about doing the RTV sealant.

I say this should keep water from getting to the screw head to rust it out, and should also prevent water from getting to and down the screw hole.

There for you shouldn't have to glue your weatherstripping down to keep water from getting to the screw and to the screw threads.

Also on sealant behind the weatherstrip channels. I ran across this. Don't know what brand and what it is made from though:

www.ebay.com/itm/like/201033833139?lpid=82

I think the best thing to use for that is Soft Silicon Sponge, very thin like maybe 1/16" or thinner with an acrylic adhesive back. The silicon can stand to temps of 500* and the sealant can stand up to something like 300*. It is a true closed cell and no water will go through it, so it's waterproof.

 

Instead of starting a whole new thread, I figured id just ask this here. I want to remove the metal weatherstrip channels from the car so I can strip the 3M adhesive without worrying about damaging the car and I need to repaint them. I tried the drivers side B pillar strip, the screws came right out but the channel is really stuck in place. Also the A pillar seems to be attached the same way but I also see what looks like rivets coming up from underneath accross the roof between the sun shades and rear view mirror section. How did GM attach these? Adhesive? Double sided tape? What part does the rivets play?

 

DUB: Any chance you are still on the Forum and tracking with posts? I am reading this old post and have a number of questions:

Background: 1994 coupe, A-Pillar, removed old weather stripping. What a mess! A lot of gunk to scrap out and remove and I am have a terrible go of it. I do not mind being patient and taking my time; I want to do it correctly. Good news so far is that there is no rust! However, the metal track is already bare metal in places and I now see the heads of several of the screws.

Also,....... you will probably cringe on my next statement.....after hours of scraping, using chemicals as recommended in may posts, I have not resorted to CAREFULLY using a wire wheel on a drill motor. I have only done this for about three inches on the metal strip. Seems to work well. Your thoughts on why or why not this is really a poor idea.

Questions:
1. You mention 'Closed Cell Foam Tape'. Is this tape exposed and on top of the metal track? Or between the metal track and the windshield. I have not seen any 'Closed Cell Foam Tape' on top of the metal track upon removing old material. Or is the tape on top of the screws only?

2. Since I am already down to bare metal in this track in many areas PLUS as I continue to remove old weatherstripping glue, it just seems easier to take it down to bare metal.
I assume this is either a Stainless Steel metal or Aluminum? Please confirm.

I was going to prime and paint the metal track before installing new weatherstripping. Do you recommend that? Or, if there is suppose to be a 'Closed Cell Foam Tape' over top of the metal strip, I could do that as well. Or both. Your thoughts?

2A. If painting bare metal is recommended......Before priming, do you recommend brushing some ospho on all metal as added protection, even though I do not see any rust? Or, just not necessary?

3. Since I have so much gunk in the metal tray, should I remove it and replace with new metal track? If easy, I would consider. If I am opening up more potential issues, I will continue to be patient and scrap.

4. Weatherstripping adhesive on the metal track as well as corners. Yes or No?..... and you are definitely a 'yes'. It appears that if I ask 5 people, I may get 5 different answers. Anyway, my main concern with the adhesive is that once it is applied, there appears to be no room for mistake on install. Then what happens? Pull out and remove adhesive quickly and start over?

Or, maybe the procedure should be to (1) fit in the track with no adhesive, (2) If it looks good, then....(3) remove....(4)apply adhesive....(5)place back it....(5) Pray. That would reduce risk considerably of not having all the plug holes line up?

Any further advice would be welcomed.

Thanks

kc

 

any links to a picture or video of how to install A pillar post moldings ive already replaced windshield