Back again! Just when I think I have everything fixed something else goes out. Last night I was driving my car, stopped to get out, and the car would not turn off, the key was stuck in the on position. I jiggled, pushed, twisted the wheel, hit starter a couple times (ouch) and after about five minutes it finally turned off. I had to go 3 more places before I got home and the key worked fine. Got this morning to go to work and it happened again, once again took me several minutes to break it loose. Then, thought I would shoot a little WD40 in there might do something, turned it on... could not get it to turn off for nothing. Had to disconnect the battery.

Okay, I have access to a used switch before I get a new one, so I went to pull the steering wheel off thinking this would be pretty self explanatory. Once I had the wheel off there is this piece that looks like it is part of the telescopic (I think), not sure how this comes out, then there is the blinker switch and then should be the bolt to take the ignition out.

Anyone know a better way? Was hoping to get this done tonight but I think that might be optimistic, looks like I am riding the Ninja in 50 degree whether in the morning!

 

are you being stopped by the steering wheel lock plate? if so there are some tools you will need not to make yourself crazy.

 

I found a diagram in the manual and printed it out. I knew there was a spring in there for the telescopic but it is heavier duty than I thought. I got the retaining clip out but I'm not looking forward to putting this back in! I have the signal loose but now I have to drop the panel so I can unplug it... it was late, haven't eaten, gave up for the night. Probably be Saturday before I can tackle it again. Fun, fun.

 

I'm assuming you meant "key & cylinder" NOT switch so I can't imagine why you would choose a "USED" vs. a new one. If the car is an '85 there's no VATS so it's a very basic "key & cylinder". There should be nothing to unplug to gain access to the screw that retains the lock cylinder in the column. You do need to remove the lock plate, the cancelling cam but I believe loosening the directional switch will allow you to set it aside to access the retaining screw for the lock cylinder. You need to be very careful of the plastic parts and you'll need a 5/16-18 set screw to reassemble the column. You paid attention I guess as to how you removed the wedge and rod for the telescopic function.

There should be some tutorials I believe that might help you. I've not been in a T&T column for a very long time but I don't recall any particular difficulties.

This is a very good steering reference for all T&T columns but it's based on C3 column which other than horn, key release and steering wheel is nearly identical. The attachments in this link could/should help.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1009#attachments

Jim's entire steering faqs is a very good read for anyone:

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/

 

now we know you are replacing the lock cylinder you are going to need a couple of tools to make the job easy.

First as WVZR-1 said a setscrew/bolt I made mine out of a bolt, find a bolt the same size and thread as the telescopic lock screw and I think ZR-1 is correct? Thread it in finger tight mark the bolt about a 1/4" above the steering shaft. remove bolt and cut on the mark then put a groove in the top so you can use a screw driver.

put the newly made tool back into the steering shaft collapse the telescopic shaft down 1/2 to 2/3rds down SNUG down the shaft lock. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

you will also need a steering wheel lock plate tool, they are very available at most auto parts stores for around $20.00

all of this would have made removing the lock plate easy and reinstallation a breeze.

once you have caged the spring and removed the retainer uncage the spring remove tool & plate.

Now remove the 3 screws that hold directional plate and the screw that holds the Dir. lever just let if fall to the side hanging by cruise wire.
now go under dash release the column wire loom from the column no need to unplug most times. Give a little push and Directional switch plate should slide up enough take the screw driver loosen the telescopic lock tool and let the shaft move toward the bottom of travel. you should have enough room to move Dir. plate to the side.

Now take WVZR-1s advise be careful with the plastic parts!!!
remove the Key chime switch (white square with flat piece) carefully wiggle it out, the flat spring along side will either fall off or remain in the column I have even seen them get hooked on something and fly so cup your hand or have a cloth over the end. retrieve the spring and reassemble on the switch now so its still fresh in the mind, and remember how it came out.

remove the cylinder retaining screw and slide out old cylinder.
do yourself a favor install a new cylinder. you have a non VATS car so there is no expensive keys and there dirt cheap comparably. just make sure they give you the one with the black trim.

to reassemble do all in reverse, and this is a good time to lube up the ignition rack gears, once you have the cylinder in make sure that the rod that connects to your true ignition switch under the dash is moving freely like it should, and if there was a problem with the rack or the gear your right there. because there is a slight chance that your original problem could have been the lower switch or linkage binding.

 

Well, I read all this after the fact but I pretty much figured it out.

I was originally going to use a used one because I thought I needed the car, but it turns out I was able to let it sit a day. I paid extra to get a cylinder from Amazon, got it today along with a plate removal tool, which was only $9 and worth every penny.

I took my telescopic bolt and went to Sears and matched it up with an allen head bolt, which worked as my lock. Worked fine since I could easily loosen or tighten with an allen wrench and the plate removal tool and even the wheel puller works over it.

Here is the deal, after waiting a day to get the part, it took me longer than I care to say to get this back together. The horn had to be disconnected because that plastic in the column was so brittle it just fell apart and I had no replacement, will have to replace it latter I guess. The big problem is this piece of China crap cylinder is no good! After getting it together I thought I would see what happens when you try and turn it without the key... guess what? It turns and starts the car without the key! It turns easier with the key, but nonetheless it still turns without it. So, I had to resort to pulling the one from the other car I have (the 29 year old one!) and it literally took me a half an hour to take mine out, take the one out of the other car, and then put it back in my car! Once you do this once you find out it isn't that difficult, especially when you have all the right tools. Unfortunately the plastic in that one was crap too.

I have lost count of how many times I have been victimized by substandard parts. I think 75% of the stuff out there is junk. I'm probably just going to stick with this one til it goes out because you can't start the car unless the key is in it... I think that is the purpose of the key. I'm sending this piece of crap back... funny thing is, I bet this is a common problem and there are a lot of people out there with cars that can probably start without a key, they just never checked it.

 

I don't understand the "PAYING EXTRA" to do the buy from Amazon. There was probably a couple parts stores "local" with it on the shelf and had you bought it local you could have taken care of the situation "toe to toe" with the seller. A local parts store if not on the shelf could have done it the next day for "NO FEES".

I'd say you more or less created or had a good bit to do with your "experience". The parts store would likely have had the lock plate to also to sell but maybe even on a "loaner" program.

Your 75% claim and your "losing count" maybe indicates a "poor choice" of vendors!

You might try LOCAL maybe and being just a bit more particular with maybe the vendor and the product!

 

I tried locally before going to Amazon, no one had anything, everyone of them would have to order it too and it would have been several days before I got it. I paid an extra $7 to get the lock cylinder and plate tool... didn't break the bank.

Having the tool for the lock plate is much easier than doing it manually, especially putting it back on.

And no, I usually go locally before I go to the web as I usually want what I want now. Have bought from AutoZone, Napa, Advance, OReilly, and have been burned by every one of them. Have gone through three starters from Autozone, Napa has given me parts that aren't even close to the original, so has Advance. They also gave me a resister that was no good, I did several other things before going back and replacing the resister again with one I got off the web to find that was the problem the whole time... what I thought to begin with but never considered a brand new part being absolutely no good.

Quality of all parts suck today, they just want to sell you with the warranty - which is nice when it turns out to be a piece of junk and you can swap it but no one takes into account all the time invested and problems it can cause if it is something that leaves you stranded. I rather have no warranty and part that does what it supposed to do more than a brief period of time. I am replacing parts from a car that is 29 years old... original parts... and I'm lucky to get things that can last a year or two... if that. That statement alone speaks for the quality of parts made today.