Just bought one today with only 3998 miles. I will be changing all fluids, tires, hoses, and belt because of their age.

Dash started blinking on the way home today and the car stalled twice when slowing to a stop.

I wonder if the battery is also suffering from old age ( 25 years )and causing this when the Alternater isn't putting out much current.

I hope this is the problem and not something serious. Has anyone had this haoppen? If so, please share what the cause was.

This my first Corvette after many other antique cars over the years.

I have lots to learn about my Corvette and Corvetts in general. Including setting the clock. I ordered a nNosvManual on eBay today.

 

The digital dashboard started blinking, or the check engine light started blinking?

Did you monitor the voltage, temps, etc, when driving? Are you sure the battery is original? I wouldn't expect a 25 year old battery to do much for you.

Don't forget plug wires with your tune up.

 

The digital dash lights started blinking. I think the fesdouts were normal but the voltage reading was below 14 and it was 14.1 before the blinking started.

I don't know how old the battery is but becsuse the car wasn't drivenless than 4,000 miles it is possible the battery is original. Mthe tires are original and will be replaced tomorrow. We are goingto test the battery tomorrow also.

Thanks for the advice on the plug wires.

 

Congratulations on your "time capsule" purchase - sounds great

I can't believe it would be the original battery, but I do think the battery could be causing problems. You can have the battery load tested, but if there's no documentation on its age, you might just replace it. Another cause could be corroded ground connections.

Good luck

 

Most importantly GET THAT BATTERY OUTTA THERE!
You will fry an otherwise good alternator. If it hasn't already been fried.
Next pull and clean all the battery connections/cables. Any sign of corrosion needs to be cleaned with baking soda and water, then flushed and brushed and flushed again. If the cables show sign of corrosion under the insulation, start cutting back the insulation to determine the amount of damage. You can wrap the cable with tape later.

The biggest enemy of our cars is electrical problems and keeping the system properly maintained at all time is paramount to reliable operation. This means a good battery and charging system. Clean connections and anytime a problem occurs you should be on it and fixed immediately. Otherwise you'll be under the hood more than driving.

 

14 volts is normal and is the output voltage from the alternator. The dash will work down to very low voltages, like 10 volts, so that is not a problem.

You probably have a bad connection between the two PC boards in the dash. That is a very common problem. Solutions are available here:

 

I'm glad I got on the forum. Lots of folks who want to help. Turns out the battery was dated 2011 and checked out weak. I replaced the battery and eliminated one of those troublesome shut off switches and my problem hasn't shown up since.

Now I need to learn why the horn kept blowing when I locked the doors and exited the car. I guess you must get out and then hit the lock switch. I finally got it to stop by starting the car and letting it idle until the horn stopped blowing. I'm thinking of adding keyless entry to my car.

Any suggestions which ones work well.

 

VATS system I wouldnt add a factory alarm to the C4
You can bypass it also few guys here have the link to show you everything you need to know about it. Left me stranded more than once

Love to see some pics of this low mile 89!
If you have the pics on your home pc when you are in the reply box click on the paperclip icon to the right of the smiley face and upload like that then hit "reply" it should show up here

 

What left you stranded? What is a VATS system?

Thanks for the info regarding pictures. I'll put a couple in next message.

While putting new tires on today it was amazing to see the undercarriage. Only some dust. Looks brand new. I discovered that I have a spare also. Lots for me to learn. Original manual is on the way which will be interesting.

Figured out how to set the clock. So easy once you know.

 

What I believe cuisinartvette was saying above is "do not" add any form of aftermarket security systems to these cars...Also I wouldn't install keyless entry, or a remote starting system ....There are horror storys of these cars electical systems going haywire after installs of this nature...If the electrical system on your car is working fine, just be happy that it is , and don't screw with it.......What probably left cuisinartvette stranded was the VATS ( Vehical Anti Theft System) these cars have from the factory...They worked fine when new but when they get older many have started working intermittedly , or some just stop working completely...The system reads the pellet in the key and if the pellet gives the correct signal to the reader the car starts, if it doesn't the car won't start...What happens is the pellet gets dirty or worn and doesn't make proper contact in the lock cylinder , or the lock cylinder contacts get worn...This has been a problem with these older cars for quite a while and is one of the main causes of a no start situation..What I ( and many others) have done on our early C4s is to bypass the VATS system with a plug in resistor that gives off the same resistance as the pellet in the key..This stops the "no start" from ever happening, but also removes your security system leaving the car vulnerable to theft...There are those that believe it's better to repair this system then to bypass it....Your car has less then 4000 miles so I don't think anything is worn out yet........WW

 

Sorry, I had an Automate keyless entry system installed on my 88 back in 1997 by a local speed shop. My first FOB. Still works flawlessly.

 

Congrats on your new '89 Vette and welcome to the Forum...

Sounds like you have cured the "gremlin"

If your Vette still has the "frisbee" (large thick disc) on the front of the WP pulley it would be a good time to remove it while you have the serp off. Since that disc is so thick you will need thick lock washers to keep the bolts from hitting the WP.

If alarm sounds after you power lock and close the doors, check the Door Ajar switch in the back of each door. If one of these switches are not closing you can adjust the switch.
BTW, I never use the power lock when exiting my '88.

When you replace plug wires get a set of low resistance OEM diameter.
To access the passenger side spark plugs you will need to remove the plastic panel in the wheel well as well as the A/C compressor brace and the two AIR hoses. That side is a real PITA compared with driver side.
It would be a good time to install new spark plugs too; don't forget a little anti-seize of the threads too.

 

Then consider yourself lucky....Do a search and you will find many that weren't so lucky........WW

 

Some info regarding the "Forced Entry Alarm" from my 86 service manual

http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Vats%20Electrical.pdf

 

Pics mandatory, congrats on your purchase sounds like a cherry. I just do not understand why people buy a fun driving car like a C4 and don't drive it.

 

I can assure you it will get driven now, however I just put it away for the winter.

 

What is a VATS system? I have posted some pictures of my car.

 

Not entirely true. Bypassing the "key pellet" only takes out that part of the system...but the entry alarms still work, so the anti-theft system has not been entirely removed.

To the OP, CONGRATULATIONS on your new addition!

 

what was the price? color?

 

Color is charcoal with grey interior.