C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rebuild or Crate

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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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Default Rebuild or Crate

My vet she is dead No compression on either head and it already had oil leaks so i figure its a good time to pull it and rebuild it or crate enigine so here is my debate

I want 300 + hp and 350+ torque

I have a quote for 1800-2000 for a rebuild.

Should i look for a longblock from a after market co or go forward with the rebuild.

I plan on keeping the TPI (i dont know why)

Thoughts or suggestions?
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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Crate long block motors from large companies will come with longer warranties. GM, BluePrint, and Jasper all have good long block assemblies and once you receive them, they are ready to bolt in. But these engines will probably be somewhat limited in terms of specific parts or machining that you may want. But the power numbers you mentioned would be pretty common among them.

In many cases, you can have them in just a few days to a week or so from placing an order. Guess it's a question about how long you want to wait to get the car back on the street.

Local engine builders can offer a wider range of components based on what you want, but the machine work can take some time based on how busy they may be. The engine builder our shop uses said that it could take up to two months to get a custom spec rebuild motor for a "walk-in" customer. Most independent local builders only offer 90 days to 6 months warranty and that's if they do the assembly work.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 11:26 PM
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IMHO, a crate engine is the way to go.

While the ZZ4 is the "standard" replacement for the L98, you won't get the advertised numbers using TPI (and many say it can't get the rated numbers without some bolt on mods).

You might think about a 383 crate engine for a step up as they aren't that much more expensive.

Good luck
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the advice I have read horror stories about Jegs and Blue print. PLUS both demand you use their installer (about 1000.00 in labor) So guess i'm Leaning tword the rebuild guy he has a great reputation
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Thanks for the advice I have read horror stories about Jegs and Blue print. PLUS both demand you use their installer (about 1000.00 in labor) So guess i'm Leaning tword the rebuild guy he has a great reputation
nothing wrong with a good reputable re-build. But wow 1k for the install. You must have some C4 co buddies to have a weekend engine removal / install
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
nothing wrong with a good reputable re-build. But wow 1k for the install. You must have some C4 co buddies to have a weekend engine removal / install

I have a buddy that helping me, I am really nervous. So many damn wires and Vaccum lines. Hopefully will all go smooth.
SO ANY ONE IN THE CINCINNATI AREA WANTS FREE FOOD AND BEER CONTACT ME
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 10:29 AM
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1800-2000 is dirt cheap for a rebuild, much less performance improvements. What are the specifics he will do for that?
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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i like the Tri Star engine here their site,they use machined rebuild block or new Dart block from the foundry for they entry or pro series.lot of displacements and you can choose different cams and forged rotating...
here a 355 with opitional (400 $) New GM block (not seasoned)
http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...num-heads.html

here a Pro -Star 383 witha NEW from foundry SHP block
http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...der-heads.html
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
1800-2000 is dirt cheap for a rebuild, much less performance improvements. What are the specifics he will do for that?
Flat top pistons more aggressive cam and shave the heads
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
i like the Tri Star engine here their site,they use machined rebuild block or new Dart block from the foundry for they entry or pro series.lot of displacements and you can choose different cams and forged rotating...
here a 355 with opitional (400 $) New GM block (not seasoned)
http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...num-heads.html

here a Pro -Star 383 witha NEW from foundry SHP block
http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...der-heads.html
The 355 looks like a good deal. I may look into this further
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 02:57 PM
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$2k parts and labor for a rebuild? Will the shop do tear down and re-assembly? What parts are involved? Not trying to sound negative, but that price sounds too good to be true.

I just finished a top end rebuild for my 4 cyl Subaru. Didn't touch the block. I pulled the engine, did the tear down and re-assembly, re-install myself. Shop machined the heads, replaced 4 valves, re-assembled the heads, set the valves, provided gasket set. I sourced and installed timing belt and related, water pump, clutch. Have around $1,600 in it.

Don't overlook the small stuff - fluids, filters, plugs & wires, other misc parts that need attention. It adds up quick!

And yes, be prepared to wait if you go local. My machine shop does a lot of local circle track and mud bog trucks. Took almost 3 months, but he does excellent work.
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
The 355 looks like a good deal. I may look into this further
Check out Ohio Crankshaft. They are located in Greenville OH.

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html

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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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I'm in the middle of building a LT1. We stroked and bored to 383 and line bored and squared the block and heads. The rotating assembly was balanced. When buying a crate engine, be advised that most blocks are not square along with the heads. It's how they are manufactured. There is a difference between a block that is squared and one that is not when it comes to horsepower. BUT the real problem is expense. Sure the crate engine will run just fine for most and will be okay with little problems installing. Ever wonder why some engines just run better that others? It's all in the details.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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He is very highly recomended but i am approaching with caution he said he will assemble it all up to the intake out the door for 1800.00 and i dont pay him till its done and tested so dot really have a ton to loose
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
The 355 looks like a good deal. I may look into this further
With a TPI system that provides the best low torque. I would not build a 383 with that combo.
parts wise.. yes very close to a standard build.
the machine work to blue print & highly recommended splayed 4 bolt main conversion is the extra cost.
and trust me I have witnessed. Terrible machine work from supposed machine shops. That equaled hack shops. In the off season. I would look for a race, dirt or track builder. "The winning builder"
For the machine & short block build. & set up your heads properly. The rest your friends could handle
Ps 383 with TPI = burnout king. Not so fun. Unless you upgrade to a much better intake system.

Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Nov 17, 2014 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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Ive only read good reports for Blue Print Engines on the C3 forum. But if u what another choice try ATK engines, Summit sells ATK and heres one that should work 325hp/375ft-lbs for $2400 (but the dip stick is on the wrong side): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp29. BTW ATK has some awesome higher performance engines they now support. ATK is one of the largest engine rebuilders and i would not be afraid to use their engines.

The GM 290hp 350" is even $2100 at Summit while the next step is the ZZ5 @ $6000.

IMHO if your not up to the remove and replacement then take it to a shop - they will some warranty period with it. Going rate for R&R the engine used to be $1K but that was years ago. And ya know the closer u get to the holidays the better the labor prices get for u because fewer people are spending $$$ on their cars and the shops are looking for work. And with an older car its always good to get familiar with the local shops for help. Better to spend a few more bucks and have a car to drive with warranty than to save a few bucks and have a garage potato. If your not ready to R&R let alone a full rebuild then dont and save yourself some real headaches.

Just my 2cents here. Good luck on what u choose.
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