C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Pulling the engine Help Please

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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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Default Pulling the engine Help Please

I am pulling the engine out of my 85 automatic . I have a couple questions

Is it easier to pull it with the trans?

Does the crank pulley need to come off? if so how? I have removed the 3 bolts but it will not come off?
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
I am pulling the engine out of my 85 automatic . I have a couple questions

Is it easier to pull it with the trans?

Does the crank pulley need to come off? if so how? I have removed the 3 bolts but it will not come off?
Easier to pull without transmission (just my opinion) and you do not have to remove the crank pulley.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pushrod-v8
Easier to pull without transmission (just my opinion) and you do not have to remove the crank pulley.

Good luck!
Thank you
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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Sometimes the pulley will stick to the balancer, lightly tap it with a hammer. The balancer is held on with a center bolt & interference fit, so you need a puller to remove that.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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IF you will notice, the tranny does NOT have any support other than the engine and a "C" brace running back to the rear end.(automatic) So, you either have to support and balance the tranny while the engine is being removed and while it is removed( no moving the car then) ,OR, pull the tranny with it. be safe, good luck.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
IF you will notice, the tranny does NOT have any support other than the engine and a "C" brace running back to the rear end.(automatic) So, you either have to support and balance the tranny while the engine is being removed and while it is removed( no moving the car then) ,OR, pull the tranny with it. be safe, good luck.
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
Definitely not fun, but doable with a few long extensions and some universal joints.


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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:00 AM
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Remove the distributor first, c channel next, tilt the engine back to get to the bell housing bolts, remove tranny from underneath, then yank the engine from the top.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
Definitely not fun, but doable with a few long extensions and some universal joints.


Nice job is yours a auto?
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Nice job is yours a auto?
There's no flywheel (but a flexplate - if that's the correct term) so it has to be...
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Nice job is yours a auto?
Yes
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
Not with the right tools. I took mine out by myself (and installed the new one). Get long long extension(s). 18"- 24" is about right. Also get the swivel headed socket for the bell-housing bolt (14MM).

There is a thread(s) on here that explains the process in detail. Search for Grumpyvette.

Most challenging part is getting it back in, and getting the block pins to seat with the tranny, without assist. That is a really a two person job. It's a one person with a long 2x4 and constantly tweaking alignment.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Im still debating on a crate from blue print, a rebuild with the TPI, and or a carb conversion.

A rebuild with a carb conversion will be about the same price as a complete motor from Blue print.
Thoughts?
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Im still debating on a crate from blue print, a rebuild with the TPI, and or a carb conversion.

A rebuild with a carb conversion will be about the same price as a complete motor from Blue print.
Thoughts?
stay with the TPI. no wiring BS to sort out and I think it looks better than a carb. BTW, a tranny jack from HaRBOR Freight made my job of removing the tranny a heck of a lot eaiser. car sat all winter with it under there (outside)and didn't move an inch.

Last edited by ghoastrider1; Nov 24, 2014 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
stay with the TPI. no wiring BS to sort out and I think it looks better than a carb.
The wiring bs is what im looking to get away from. I have had so many problems with TPS, IAC, EGR, its been a damn nightmare I think this wiring was very hacked up before i got it. Lots of plugs i have no idea where they go
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
Definitely not fun, but doable with a few long extensions and some universal joints.


And using the Happy Hooker really helps!
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by scotth48
And using the Happy Hooker really helps!
I used the adjustable engine leveler. Also, .be aware of how high you have it on jacks..I had my car high enough on for 6T jacks..that I could "comfortably" work underneath. This, of course..impacts how HIGH your crane has to lift the engine to clear the car.

And the engine leveler will make installation way easier...
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To Pulling the engine Help Please

Old Nov 27, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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I read somewhere, and I think it was in here, that he car needed to be 18 inches up to put headers from under it. I took that and used it for my tranny removal.. and it just barely cleared.
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Remove the distributor first, c channel next, tilt the engine back to get to the bell housing bolts, remove tranny from underneath, then yank the engine from the top.


I have a 91.
I also needed the chain on the back of the drivers side head and front of passenger side head or it hit the bulg in the firewall for the electrical bulk head fitting when the engine was tilted back. I noticed that putting the engine in the car... For some reason I was unable to get the engine in the car (by myself) with both engine mounts attatched to the engine. I have done it before but I just couldn't get it done this time without beating the crap out of everything. I also found that if you have a spare set of valve covers that can get scratched up, put those on as well.

Good luck.
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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ANTI VENOM


I have a 91.
I also needed the chain on the back of the drivers side head and front of passenger side head or it hit the bulg in the firewall for the electrical bulk head fitting when the engine was tilted back. I noticed that putting the engine in the car... For some reason I was unable to get the engine in the car (by myself) with both engine mounts attatched to the engine. I have done it before but I just couldn't get it done this time without beating the crap out of everything. I also found that if you have a spare set of valve covers that can get scratched up, put those on as well.

Good luck.
I waited until I got the trans and the engine mated to put on the engine mounts. Made sure the engine did NOT rest on the oil pan. Could not mate the trans and engine without doing it like this. Was also limited to only two hands. This is why that engine leveler comes in handy.
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