When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sometimes the pulley will stick to the balancer, lightly tap it with a hammer. The balancer is held on with a center bolt & interference fit, so you need a puller to remove that.
IF you will notice, the tranny does NOT have any support other than the engine and a "C" brace running back to the rear end.(automatic) So, you either have to support and balance the tranny while the engine is being removed and while it is removed( no moving the car then) ,OR, pull the tranny with it. be safe, good luck.
IF you will notice, the tranny does NOT have any support other than the engine and a "C" brace running back to the rear end.(automatic) So, you either have to support and balance the tranny while the engine is being removed and while it is removed( no moving the car then) ,OR, pull the tranny with it. be safe, good luck.
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
Definitely not fun, but doable with a few long extensions and some universal joints.
Remove the distributor first, c channel next, tilt the engine back to get to the bell housing bolts, remove tranny from underneath, then yank the engine from the top.
This is a 10 on the pain the *** scale. So we are going to remove the trany with it. Plus i cant imagine the hell of putting on these bell housing bolts with the trans in the car.
Not with the right tools. I took mine out by myself (and installed the new one). Get long long extension(s). 18"- 24" is about right. Also get the swivel headed socket for the bell-housing bolt (14MM).
There is a thread(s) on here that explains the process in detail. Search for Grumpyvette.
Most challenging part is getting it back in, and getting the block pins to seat with the tranny, without assist. That is a really a two person job. It's a one person with a long 2x4 and constantly tweaking alignment.
Im still debating on a crate from blue print, a rebuild with the TPI, and or a carb conversion.
A rebuild with a carb conversion will be about the same price as a complete motor from Blue print.
Thoughts?
stay with the TPI. no wiring BS to sort out and I think it looks better than a carb. BTW, a tranny jack from HaRBOR Freight made my job of removing the tranny a heck of a lot eaiser. car sat all winter with it under there (outside)and didn't move an inch.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Nov 24, 2014 at 07:38 PM.
stay with the TPI. no wiring BS to sort out and I think it looks better than a carb.
The wiring bs is what im looking to get away from. I have had so many problems with TPS, IAC, EGR, its been a damn nightmare I think this wiring was very hacked up before i got it. Lots of plugs i have no idea where they go
I used the adjustable engine leveler. Also, .be aware of how high you have it on jacks..I had my car high enough on for 6T jacks..that I could "comfortably" work underneath. This, of course..impacts how HIGH your crane has to lift the engine to clear the car.
And the engine leveler will make installation way easier...
I read somewhere, and I think it was in here, that he car needed to be 18 inches up to put headers from under it. I took that and used it for my tranny removal.. and it just barely cleared.
Remove the distributor first, c channel next, tilt the engine back to get to the bell housing bolts, remove tranny from underneath, then yank the engine from the top.
I have a 91.
I also needed the chain on the back of the drivers side head and front of passenger side head or it hit the bulg in the firewall for the electrical bulk head fitting when the engine was tilted back. I noticed that putting the engine in the car... For some reason I was unable to get the engine in the car (by myself) with both engine mounts attatched to the engine. I have done it before but I just couldn't get it done this time without beating the crap out of everything. I also found that if you have a spare set of valve covers that can get scratched up, put those on as well.
I have a 91.
I also needed the chain on the back of the drivers side head and front of passenger side head or it hit the bulg in the firewall for the electrical bulk head fitting when the engine was tilted back. I noticed that putting the engine in the car... For some reason I was unable to get the engine in the car (by myself) with both engine mounts attatched to the engine. I have done it before but I just couldn't get it done this time without beating the crap out of everything. I also found that if you have a spare set of valve covers that can get scratched up, put those on as well.
Good luck.
I waited until I got the trans and the engine mated to put on the engine mounts. Made sure the engine did NOT rest on the oil pan. Could not mate the trans and engine without doing it like this. Was also limited to only two hands. This is why that engine leveler comes in handy.