When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have to measure the stud bore first. I'd really like to know what are that rims.
Hello. Just hoping to add to your store of knowledge...
Since lug holes are drilled you've surely got some racing wheels. Not likely Corvette or World Challenge, where untampered stock hugs were required. More likely IMSA or SCCA enduro adventures. Tommy Morrison's Mobil 1 teams ran with drilled 17-inch Dymags and specially-prepped hubs (see pix) with 16mm lugs welded in place. He also ran with long 14mm lugs like the hub in the background. If you decide to run your wheels and you're in need of front and rear hubs with either 14 or 16mm lugs, look no farther.
Hello. Just hoping to add to your store of knowledge...
Since lug holes are drilled you've surely got some racing wheels. Not likely Corvette or World Challenge, where untampered stock hugs were required. More likely IMSA or SCCA enduro adventures. Tommy Morrison's Mobil 1 teams ran with drilled 17-inch Dymags and specially-prepped hubs (see pix) with 16mm lugs welded in place. He also ran with long 14mm lugs like the hub in the background. If you decide to run your wheels and you're in need of front and rear hubs with either 14 or 16mm lugs, look no farther.
Ralph - If you have screw pitch gages check the larger studs. If they were Metric they would be 1.5 BUT they look odd so I'd try an SAE-18 or -11. If you don't have a gage try both a 9/16-18 and a 5/8-18 or a 5/8-11 nut, if you ID the studs the sale would be much easier. M16 at the time these cars were run would have been very rare, very rare. They're still rare in high performance axles and hubs. They don't look like -11 but snapshots don't always reflect the way things actually are. I'd think -18. A 1" rule could be used also, 1.5M is less than 17 per inch.
I will try to measure the stud bore and let you know tomorow.
Thanks for your help, i appreciate it.
Do you think these rims could be installed on a street car by machining the hubs (1.5" more backspace), using some tubes on the 12mm stud to match the bore diameter and flange type nut ?
I want to keep the possibility to install original "salad shooter" rims on the car so i cannot install 14+ mm studs.
I will try to measure the stud bore and let you know tomorow.
Thanks for your help, i appreciate it.
Do you think these rims could be installed on a street car by machining the hubs (1.5" more backspace), using some tubes on the 12mm stud to match the bore diameter and flange type nut ?
I want to keep the possibility to install original "salad shooter" rims on the car so i cannot install 14+ mm studs.
I mentioned in November that I thought the additional material was a plus to machine to a specific fit. The wheel nuts wouldn't be a problem so long as the wheel has a flat surface for a flanged nut with a shoulder, a flanged nut with a machined sleeve could work but I doubt required. The bore dimension answers that.
I don't see that being an issue. A MAG style wheel nut with a shoulder is 17mm in diameter so you wouldn't have to change wheel studs to use these wheels so long as you have a flat on the wheel for the nut/washer to seat. This style is used on Cragar and many other style alloy wheels.
On a conventional C4 alloy wheel that used as taper/bulge nut the bore is something very near 15mm, generally a bit over 15mm.
The important dimension is the 70.3 center bore when you have these wheels machined. There are of course mounting rings if the center bore is over-size.
I see "NO ISSUES"!!
I don't know where you're located but here's a link to most wheel nut/washer styles. I used this link only because it displayed all with dimensions:
I don't see that being an issue. A MAG style wheel nut with a shoulder is 17mm in diameter so you wouldn't have to change wheel studs to use these wheels so long as you have a flat on the wheel for the nut/washer to seat. This style is used on Cragar and many other style alloy wheels.
On a conventional C4 alloy wheel that used as taper/bulge nut the bore is something very near 15mm, generally a bit over 15mm.
The important dimension is the 70.3 center bore when you have these wheels machined. There are of course mounting rings if the center bore is over-size.
I see "NO ISSUES"!!
I don't know where you're located but here's a link to most wheel nut/washer styles. I used this link only because it displayed all with dimensions:
Dave, These pix may better describe the hubs I have. My mic sez 14mm and 16mm. Lengths can be seen. Lug nuts are 19mm and 25mm. I'm near certain the thread pitch is the same as the stock lug. I have 25mm nuts but no 19s. Since we're restoring one of Morrison's 88/89 IMSA Vette racers, we know he ran 16mm lugs on those cars. Don't know where else, but it's likely the '90s ZR-1s he ran at Daytona and Sebring had 16s. The 14s are brand-new.
Dave, These pix may better describe the hubs I have. My mic sez 14mm and 16mm. Lengths can be seen. Lug nuts are 19mm and 25mm. I'm near certain the thread pitch is the same as the stock lug. I have 25mm nuts but no 19s. Since we're restoring one of Morrison's 88/89 IMSA Vette racers, we know he ran 16mm lugs on those cars. Don't know where else, but it's likely the '90s ZR-1s he ran at Daytona and Sebring had 16s. The 14s are brand-new.
The 1" dimension on the vernier is also the hex of the most/more popular 5/8-18 of the era. Screw pitch gage answers all.
I don't see that being an issue. A MAG style wheel nut with a shoulder is 17mm in diameter so you wouldn't have to change wheel studs to use these wheels so long as you have a flat on the wheel for the nut/washer to seat. This style is used on Cragar and many other style alloy wheels.
On a conventional C4 alloy wheel that used as taper/bulge nut the bore is something very near 15mm, generally a bit over 15mm.
The important dimension is the 70.3 center bore when you have these wheels machined. There are of course mounting rings if the center bore is over-size.
I see "NO ISSUES"!!
I don't know where you're located but here's a link to most wheel nut/washer styles. I used this link only because it displayed all with dimensions:
THe center bore is allready 70.3mm but as I will have to get the hub machined, i will have to get the center a bit deeper than it is now. (it will still be 70.3mm)
I a from France but it is not an issue for me to buy parts in the US. Lots of corvette parts are not available in France and when they are, they are incredibly expensive. That's why i buy parts only in the US.
Thanks for the answers and the link.
Indianavette, these are great information about C4 history and dymags. Is there a thread where i could follow the restoration of the Morisson's vette ?
Thanks for your help !
I will post pictures of the rims during refinishing.
I checked and measured correctly the dymag and original rims this week-end.
I seems that i was wrong last time i did it.
The difference in backspacing is 1.9". It's too big to machine the dymag to fit the car.
If i machine the rim by 1.9", it will only remains 0.35" of material.
The only thing i can do is machine it by 1.15 or 1.2inch to get 6.7" backspace. In that way, the dymag would fit an early C4 without spacer.
I don't know i will sell it to someone with an early C4 or keep it for another C4 i'd buy in some years...