New Suspension installed
The instalation took approx 10 hours.
Camber brace: I had a little trouble with this. The towel I wraped it in came off on my first attempt an the bar got scratched a little but it is not bad. I then used lots of duct tape to insure it would not come off again. I tried to follow the instructions (without taking off the belt) only it was not happening. Twice I got the bar stuck (would not go in further would not come out. I then decided to try the ignorance and brute force approach (by this time I was getting fustrated) and I wedged it in from the passenger side. To my amazement it worked.
Shocks: Very straight forward very easy. The rear had to be shimed which was not a problem.
Sway bars: Major PITA!!! Pressing in the eye bushings in the front was a nightmare. Again I reached numerous points where they would not go in any further and would not come back out. I managed to get them in with a 5lb sledge a few blocks of wood and another health dose of brute force and ignorance. The rear bar was not as bad to get the eye bushings in but to get the old ones out of the end links was another 30 miniute affair. As for removing the rear bar I had to lower one of the mufflers to get the clearance but did not remove it.
Driving impression: I set the shocks on 6 and drove to a late dinner with my wife. My car finally feals like a vette!!!!! No more bouncy ride no more lean in curves. Very flat very stable. I am not sure what parts made the most difference as I did all of this at the same time. I am very pleased with the final results. I will experiment over the next few days to find the right settings for my shocks.
On the way: DRM bias spring waiting for speed bleeders to arrive before I install it. New brake pads... still not decided on performance friction vs hawk. Rear cross bar (awaiting delivery).
Thanks again.
_Brian
What kind of spring are you getting and what spring rate?
_Brian
The shocks came from summit @ 139 each.
_Brian
I did all of the mods you have, but in increments, first I did the swaybars, waited two years, did the poly bushing in the rear, the camber brace a month later and finally added the HAL shocks a few months after that. IMHO, the swaybars made the biggest change in handling, esp in corners and over bumpy roads, they make the car much flatter in the corners.
The next best improvement was the camber brace and poly bushing for the diff carrier/camber rods. Once I realized the entire drive train is suspended on the diff carrier bushings and the motor mounts it made sense. With stiffer bushing on the diff carrier most of the drivetrain flex is eliminated, but I kept the stock motor mounts. I've heard poly motor mounts really transmit engine vibes, I'm not considering using them, and I don't think they are required. I think the camber brace is a very important part of eliminating drivetrain flex by tighting up the engine mounts area of the frame. In any case the poly bushings and camber brace cost me less than $200 combined with the swaybars, most of the improvement can be purchased for under $500.
I have to say the HAL shocks aren't cheap, but worth ever penny. Combined with the bars, camber brace and poly bushings they make the car perfect. For normal everyday driving I set them to 4 in the front, 6 in the rear. When I want to crank it, I go 8 in the rear, 6-7 in the front.
I also added the ZR51 beamplates. I have no idea if they help, but they can't hurt and they made it much easier to install the c-beam when I swapped the rear gear and Hurst shifter.
Eric
[Modified by silver & red CE, 8:03 AM 8/4/2002]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
:cheers:
P.S. I order a lot of parts from http://www.racenet.net/ and I have never had a problem. That is where I got my bleeders. Prices are great too.
[Modified by mj_duell, 7:42 AM 8/7/2002]
















