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1986 Theft deterrent system

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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Default 1986 Theft deterrent system

I just bought a 1986 vette and someone has already hacked a lot of the wires up and I'm trying to get things back. The theft deterrent system is sketchy at best. It seems to work but will not disable when the key is inserted in the door. I had to replace the door locks because it only came with an ignition key and seems to have a bypass in that because the key doesn't have a chip in it. When I open the door and the horn goes off I jumper the wires that go to the door lock and it goes off. But I would like to get rid of it altogether someone can point me in the right direction.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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If you want to kill the horn honk, cut the wire from theft deterrent controller, at horn relay. The horn relay is behind info center, above radio.
There are 2 black wires going into relay, one is from steering wheel switch, the other from controller. You have a 50% chance of cutting the correct wire the first time.

Here is some info and electrical schematics from my 86 service manual.


http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Vats%20Electrical.pdf
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:23 PM
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Here is what is behind info center

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Here is what is behind info center

Thanks I will try that this weekend
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
If you want to kill the horn honk, cut the wire from theft deterrent controller, at the horn relay.
If you don't have a chip in the key, you must not have the VATS system.

If you cut the wire at the horn relay, the horn won't blow, but you'll still get a "no-start" if the alarm circuit activates for some unknown reason, but it won't be apparent that it's your alarm that's causing the "no-start".

If you want to disable the alarm function, just pull the plug at the alarm module. There will be no more false alarms, no more "no-starts", and everything will work normally (except the alarm, of course).


Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; Dec 8, 2014 at 01:12 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
If you don't have a chip in the key, you must not have the VATS system.
Or there's been a Vats bypass installed on the car. I thought by default all 86's had a Vats system installed on them.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
If you don't have a chip in the key, you must not have the VATS system.

If you cut the wire at the horn relay, the horn won't blow, but you'll still get a "no-start" if the alarm circuit activates for some unknown reason, but it won't be apparent that it's your alarm that's causing the "no-start".

If you want to disable the alarm function, just pull the plug at the alarm module. There will be no more false alarms, no more "no-starts", and everything will work normally (except the alarm, of course).

I think it already has the bypass installed on VATS but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. It's a late year 86' with the aluminum heads. So would I disconnect the audio alarm module shown in the picture?
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Here's a little light reading for you , it explains vats real well...WW

http://vatssucks.com/
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy

If you cut the wire at the horn relay, the horn won't blow, but you'll still get a "no-start" if the alarm circuit activates for some unknown reason, but it won't be apparent that it's your alarm that's causing the "no-start".

If you want to disable the alarm function, just pull the plug at the alarm module. There will be no more false alarms, no more "no-starts", and everything will work normally (except the alarm, of course).

FYI, the 86-89 theft deterrent controller has nothing to do with starting, just controls the honking horn.

Also, you have to stand on your head to get at theft deterrent controller, so cutting wire at relay, seems to be the least painful method.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
FYI, the 86-89 theft deterrent controller has nothing to do with starting, just controls the honking horn.
Interesting! Sorry for the wrong info.

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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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I already have the whole dash torn out doing repairs so would it make sense to unplug it now or just cut the wire and will the horn still work if I do either?
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 02:01 AM
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The VATS module is mounted on the front of the dash frame behind the "bread loaf". It is more or less in the upper center part of this picture:



The TDS (Theft Deterrent System) module -- the one that honks the horn -- looks the same as the VATS module but is taped to the wiring harness behind the dash frame and also behind the VATS module.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:06 AM
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Thanks, I'll try that first. I thought it was tied into more things than that but if I'm correct, unplugging it will not kill my horn totally just the Theft deterrent?
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 12:47 AM
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The horn circuit is separate from the TDS circuit, so the horn will still work.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Well I'm finally getting things back together and I unplugged the theft deterrent module and did the starter relay bypass and now the horn doesn't work but I can hear the horn relay clicking. If anyone has an idea it would be appreciated
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 12:59 AM
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Here's the wiring diagram for the horns from the '86 shop manual:



The horn button and TDS are in parallel, so the horns should still work if the TDS is disconnected.

Speaking of disconnected, are the horns disconnected?
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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the horns are connected, that's how I found out it was malfunctioning. but next warm day I'm going to check and see if I'm getting power to it and start backtracking things. I just purchased a manual off e-bay and hopefully will have it in a week or so.
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