C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Got new engine installed now seems very tight

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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Default Got new engine installed now seems very tight

When turning it over it seems really tight but turns over ok but and it also acts like it either wants to stop turning over or is having an interference problem.

Kinda sucs but I'm hoping it is possible the valves are two tightly adjusted or too low or maybe there is some oil left in one of the cylinders.

There is no metal on metal sound but it gets real tight as if it is just an interference problem.

Tomorrow I'm going to take all the plugs out and turn it over and see if that changes anything. If not I'm going to back off the valve adjustment by 1/2 turn on all of them and see if that changes anything.

If none of that works buying borascope and taking a look inside.

Anything else I'm missing.

I definatly made sure the timing marks were aligned correctly.

It is not stopping because of bad timing misfire as it has not built up any fuel pressure yet just turned it over a couple of times.

Last edited by garys vette; Dec 9, 2014 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 07:04 PM
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Plugs out, a properly built SBC should take less than 55 lb-ft of torque to turn over. Put a tq wrench on the crank nut and see what you've got
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by garys vette
When turning it over it seems really tight but turns over ok but and it also acts like it either wants to stop turning over or is having an interference problem.

Kinda sucs but I'm hoping it is possible the valves are two tightly adjusted or too low or maybe there is some oil left in one of the cylinders.

There is no metal on metal sound but it gets real tight as if it is just an interference problem.

Tomorrow I'm going to take all the plugs out and turn it over and see if that changes anything. If not I'm going to back off the valve adjustment by 1/2 turn on all of them and see if that changes anything.

If none of that works buying borascope and taking a look inside.

Anything else I'm missing.

I definatly made sure the timing marks were aligned correctly.

It is not stopping because of bad timing misfire as it has not built up any fuel pressure yet just turned it over a couple of times.
WHAT YEAR MODEL????? Always post that .because it helps. I assume nothing due to some members have more than one Corvette.

NEW engine means that all parts that wear out have been replaced...correct????

SO...IF I read this correctly....The engine has NOT cranked and run yet....CORRECT???

Which is why I need to know the YEAR MODEL....it makes a difference. One type of engine has a distributor that can be adjuster...the other type you can not change the timing.

DID you PRIME the engine???? Once again..the type of engine matters on how this is done.

Hydraulic flat tappet lifters or roller lifters?????? Makes a difference.

There is a procedure to correctly adjust the lifters when it is on the engine stand.

I can not understand when you write about 'bad timing misfire' when it has not run yet due to no fuel pressure yet.....very confusing. the engine should be using an electric fuel pump.

Hopefully you do not have cylinders with a lot of oil in them. When it cranks and runs to break in the cam...it is going to be smoking like a factory.

I did not build it so I do not know what your ring gap was set at....or if it was checked if the cylinders were bored, etc.

Taking the plugs out is going to take out the 'compression factor'.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Dec 9, 2014 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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OP I am going to guess you have a 1986 going by your profile, is this correct?
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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Did you assemble this engine? If so, did anyone assist you?

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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Find out why before you fire it up...
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 11:13 PM
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Very sorry for being incomplete.

It is a 1986 vert.

I purchased a new block from summit and their stroker kit.

Everything is new crank, bearing, pistons, rings, PP, etc etc.

Used everything else from the original engine. TP, Injectors, etc.

Have 4 angle valve job completed

And yes it takes just about 60 Ft' lbs to turn it over less once it starts to turn.

Hydraulic lifters

stock new lifters, stock new rockers,

Thanks for your input so far. I have rebuilt several engines in the past my son and myself are doing this one.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 11:15 PM
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Plus fuel pressure is not up yet so there is no fuel in the system. It has just turned over a couple of times.

It has not fired up or even fired yet.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 11:29 PM
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Tomorrow I'm going to take all the plugs out
Theres your "intereference" problem

Good for double checking on things anyway
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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I do not think the plugs are causing a problem but maybe there is some oil in a cylinder.

Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Theres your "intereference" problem

Good for double checking on things anyway
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 02:00 PM
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A new engine will have increased friction from the rings scraping the newly honed cylinders. The starter should be able to spin the motor with or without the plugs in.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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I bought a block from summit also. Good thing I opted to have a trusted machist assemble the short block. Turns out the block was not clearances for a 383 stroke, line bore was slightly off so he used two different sets of bearings, and the .30 bore was actually closer to a .27.... So he had to shave the rings more because he said it was really tight.

If you just assumed it was right some of these things might have happened to you too. Hope not though..
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Update took all plugs out still a little tight so I backed off the rockers 3/4 of a turn and that helped a lot they must of been just about to touch. or very slighley touching. The valves I mean of course.

The motor spun like crazy witht he plugs out and valves back about 3/4. I followed the directions for adjusting the rocker/valves.

Put it back together checked compression about 175 all cylinders. Put the the plugs in it and it feels tight but the starter can crank it over fine.

Going to go ahead and start it. I really hope the summit block and all the work we did is going to pay off not make us pay.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Again...I will ask.

DID you PRIME the engine???? SO all parts are oiled and ready to go for cam break in procedure. You do prime the engine FIRST...don't you????

Hydraulic flat tappet lifters or roller lifters?????? Makes a difference.

There is a procedure to correctly adjust the lifters when it is on the engine stand....so it all depends if you set the valves like in the manual COLD.

Now knowing that you have done engines before...it depends on what lube you used for the type of lifters....which that I have no clue that you have in the engine. Also how well the crank spun when you installed it.

****OPINION****
I am still baffled why you have oil in the cylinders...or put oil in them. I know people have their way of doing things...and some may think that squirting oil is fine in the cylinders....which I know many guys around me will do it for checking bad rings, compression test, etc. I guess what ever makes you happy.

Also....spinning the engine over and over and it not being primed is something I would not do. My opinion on that... When the engine is all lubed up and primed...I keep turning it over to a minimum. Crank it and get it to the RPMs for cam break in. And hopefully you are using 'break-in oil' when you do break it in...especially if it has flat tappet lifters.

DUB
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by garys vette
Update took all plugs out still a little tight so I backed off the rockers 3/4 of a turn and that helped a lot they must of been just about to touch. or very slighley touching. The valves I mean of course.
It does not work like that. If you have piston to valve interference....it has to do with other issues and not the valve adjustment.

Correct spark plugs for the heads will also not hit the valves. And depending on the piston deck height when you assembled it....and then checking the head gasket thickness. The squish pad on head and the piston clearance can be checked.

If the cold setting of the valves were properly preformed...you should not have had to back them off 3/4 of a turn.

One thing is not nonworking what parts were used......I know that one manufacturer a few years ago used an assembly lube while assembling eh lifters that if it was not thoroughly cleaned and the lifters pre-oiled....the lifters could stick and stay plunged and cause a problem.

Hope it cranks and works as you perfectly for you.

DUB
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by garys vette
I do not think the plugs are causing a problem but maybe there is some oil in a cylinder.
Didnt mean the plugs themselves are causing physical interference just cyl pressure building up. Take them out try and turn it over

Wouldnt mess with valve adjustment or anything else just yet
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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I did answer most of your questions.

Hydraulic lifters as stated before.

Just used oil to slide the pistons into the bores

Nothing is roller

Yes I primed it very well and we are are seeing 49 psi on oil pressure.

We also used grease etc for cam.

One thing I did not do is put hydraulic lifters into oil and soak them before I put them into the engine.

But I did prime it really well. But I must admit I adjusted the lifters prior to priming. I thought the hydraulic lifter internal spring was pushing back. Once you started to tighten the rocker arm ar TDC for that cylinder you spun the push rod till it stopped then you tightened one more full turn. I checked this over and over again before I did it and double checked it when done. But I backed off all of them by 3/4 turn and that seemed to help a lot.

It seems to act like a normal engine now with a lot of compression. Meaning as each piston gets close to TDC the starter slows slightly.

I appreciate your input, thanks.

Merry Christmas

Originally Posted by DUB
Again...I will ask.

DID you PRIME the engine???? SO all parts are oiled and ready to go for cam break in procedure. You do prime the engine FIRST...don't you????

Hydraulic flat tappet lifters or roller lifters?????? Makes a difference.

There is a procedure to correctly adjust the lifters when it is on the engine stand....so it all depends if you set the valves like in the manual COLD.

Now knowing that you have done engines before...it depends on what lube you used for the type of lifters....which that I have no clue that you have in the engine. Also how well the crank spun when you installed it.

****OPINION****
I am still baffled why you have oil in the cylinders...or put oil in them. I know people have their way of doing things...and some may think that squirting oil is fine in the cylinders....which I know many guys around me will do it for checking bad rings, compression test, etc. I guess what ever makes you happy.

Also....spinning the engine over and over and it not being primed is something I would not do. My opinion on that... When the engine is all lubed up and primed...I keep turning it over to a minimum. Crank it and get it to the RPMs for cam break in. And hopefully you are using 'break-in oil' when you do break it in...especially if it has flat tappet lifters.

DUB
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:56 PM
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YES...you did state hydraulic lifters.....but not if they are flat tappet or roller lifters.

I know the factory lifters were flat tappet...but with a new block....it could have been one from a later year model where they used roller lifters.

Thanks for the reply....You seems to be ready to fire it up.

Merry Christmas to you also.

DUB
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dub
yes...you did state hydraulic lifters.....but not if they are flat tappet or roller lifters.
Yes he did

Originally Posted by garys vette
nothing is roller
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyowner
Yes he did
YES he did...BUT....AFTER I asked a second time....MY FIRST time asking in post #3...then again in post#16...his reply post #18.

DUB
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