When I changed my water pump I noticed the seal on the water pump drive gear did not look pretty. Due to time constraints I didn't have time to investigate it further. Two hours after driving with the new water pump I discovered an oil leak dripping down the front of the engine. It smokes like crazy so I know it wasn't there before. At least not as much as it is now. It could be the famous oil leak from the intake gasket, but due to the timing of the incident I am suspecting otherwise. Has anyone experienced this problem? I believe I would have to remove the timing cover. How bad of a job would this be? I am going to make sure of the problem before I start but I was just wondering what I may be up against.
:cheers:

 

Oh yeah, it's a 95 LT1. Thanks!!

 

Good news, The seal can be replaced with out removing the front cover and it only costs about $2.
Bad news, you have to remove the, water pump, and loosen or remove the opti (which might mean removing the hub) so you can remove and replace the seal (this is on a 96)
The seal is a little precarious to install correctly, it's easy to distort the inside seal which results in a quarter to half dollar sized oil leak on the garage floor.

 

Basically you need a special 'tool' to seat the seal without damaging it. It took three seals for me to figure it out. No other way to do it.

I didn't have the approved tool so fashioned my own out of an old turkey baster. What you need is a small funnel to spread the seal onto the shaft as it is an interference type fit. I believe someone referred to it as a thimble-Chevy does have a tool for it-I didn't know this.

It will only get worse.

:)

 

So how do I get the part number for this seal? Where do I get the tool? Also I am unclear why I would have to remove the opti. Won't removing the water pump give me ample access?

 

Just call your local chevy dealer and tell them you need a waterpump seal for your car. Or call Jeff Kopp and Superior Chev. but it's only like a $2 part, might want to get 2 of them just in case. You'll need something to put over the water pump shaft to keep the inside part of the seal facing inward (otherwise it gets forced outward). No Go used a cut turkey baster, I used a 1/2" piece of hose with the end flared out. The opti blocks the wp seal from coming off, so you have to either loosen the opti or remove it (going from memory here, so if someone has a better solution chime in). And I tapped mine on with a big socket and rubber mallet.


[Modified by tdock, 3:22 PM 8/8/2002]

 

Here are some part numbers.

Water Pump Shaft Seal. Part #10217886

Water Pump Shaft Seal Protector (this is GM's "special tool needed to properly install the shaft seal) Part #j39087 Call SPX Kentmore 1-800-345-2233

If the water pump shaft is groved it should be replaced or it still may leak even with a new seal. The water pump shaft is aprox. $50.00.

Water Pump Shaft/Gear 10219554

 

I just found my water pump leaking on my 95 LT1. Any special instructions? Can I damage the drive seal by replacing the pump?

 

How do I get the old seal off? Will I be able to see well enough to inspect the drive gear? I just want to make sure I don't have to remove the timing chain cover.

 

Once the pump and Opti are out of the way, there is a small slot in the timing chain cover that you can put a medium screw driver in and pry the seal out. Don't forget the little rubber O-rings on the WP shaft and the WP shaft coupler.

Previous Q: You don't have to replace the seal when you replace the waterpump.

 

I dont remember seeing any little rubber "O" rings...are these on the inside of the coupler? What kind of grease can u use to replace the old grease on the shaft and inside the coupler? Bearing grease? :cheers:

 

there is an o-ring on both sides of the coupler. When I pulled mine off one stayed in the coupler and one stayed on the old water pump. If you didn't see it then it may have been still in the coupler. I'm would think bearing grease would be fine. The factory service manuals from Helms helps clue you into some of the little details like "make sure you reuse the little o-rings." For me the manuals have been a big help. I think they run around 120 bucks but you can usually get them off ebay for half that. They pay for themselves if you plan to do a lot of the work yourself. Between the manuals and the forum I haven't run into a problem yet. (knock on wood :D )

 

By the way, I think the o-rings only serve as a method of making a nice tight fit on the connection to prevent the coupler from rattling around on the shaft. From the passengers side of the car with a flashlight you can get a good look at the coupler. With the car not running use a flat head screwdriver and see if the coupler is loose or seems snug on the shaft. That should clue you in to make sure they are where they should be.