Car died on me this morning. Stranded in Port Richey, FL with code H16 "low resolution ignition signal" I believe. Anyone know of any local flat bed tow trucks good with Vettes?

 

Got it home on a flat bed...


Any help here? This is my 3rd opti. Was driving along down US19 and the car sputtered and died, cruised into a parking lot. Pulled code H16 "DTC 16: Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse)"

What is frying my optis? No water pump or oil leakage that I can tell. What do I need to buy so I can test all the components? I have a noid light and a fuel pressure gauge. Do I need to go buy a digital volt meter? I have the FSM but i've never been a huge fan of it...

Anyone find a reason why they are going through optis so much? 94' LT1 ZF6

-replaced original opti at 100k with a chandler unit off ebay, died in spring 13'

-replaced chandler with a cardone from advanced, died this time last year.

-replaced cardone unit from advanced with a delphi OEM opti in December 2013 and now this one is dead a year later. Will not start AT ALL. Just turns over. Code H16 as stated above. But I am getting the feeling there is more to the issue here, something is frying these optis, I don't get it. The car is perfect, I love driving it, but the opti situation is a little ridiculous.

 

YEP....have you verified that it is an opti-spark and NOT an ignition module??

or even a coil wire????

DUB

 

ICM is new, I suppose I can have it tested to be safe...

Thought H16 code was indeed an optispark issue and could not be anything else? This is the first time I have ever gotten a code. Car will not start at all, even a day later. Just cranks and cranks...

 

I dont know optis but I do know the codes provide basic info not definitive. Do as DUB suggests and check everything before the opti supplying its power and trigger. I recently had an issue with my distributor where my coil was eating the pick up. I fixed the broken part but not the reason. Stick with it you will figure it out. The diagnostic trees in the FSM are your friends.

 

Have you inspected the wiring harness closely?

 

Thanks guys for the help so far. Had the ICM and Coil tested today at Advanced Auto, both tested as good.

I bought a digital volt meter while at Walmart and proceeded to follow the flow chart on page 6E3-A-52 of the FSM. The Opti wiring harness checked out OKAY at both the test connector and the opti connector.

With Key On/Engine Off:
Terminal A measured exactly 5.00v
Terminal B measured exactly 5.00v
Terminal C measured 11.96v
Terminal D measured between 0 and .01v

I inspected the harness closley and all seems well, guess it wouldn't hurt to replace it though for peace of mind.

All signs are pointing to the Opti again. Wish I knew why they keep failing on me, I guess no one really makes a quality Opti anymore. Right now I am torn between the MSD unit or the Petris unit. Wish I could spring for the efi connection 24x coil kit but can't justify the cost vs. just selling what I have and buying a C5.

Any other input is appreciated, thanks guys!

 

So...if you have FSM...how much of the flow chart tests did you do???? DID you complete the flow chart letting you know that it is an Opti-spark?

Call these guys. I put the 'best' opti they sell in and it has been working for quite a while.
http://www.kandbcorvetteproducts.com/

DUB

 

Yes sir. This is all measuring Terminal A (Red/Black wire). The flow chart ends in one of three ways:

-"Less than 5 volts"
-"4 to 6 Volts"
-or "Over 6 Volts"

Mine is exactly 5 volts. The end solution sates,"Faulty Distributor Connection or Faulty Distrubtor." As far as I can tell, all connections regarding the Opti harness, ICM harness, and Coil harness is good.

 

OK...Give Ken a call at the site I gave you and see what he says.....unless many other forum members have used what you posted as options for an Opti-Spark and had good results.

I know eh connections can LOOK GOOD...but I have the tools to remove the terminals and I physically check the DRAG when I slide the two terminals together. Just a thought.

Lastly...and sometimes this is a PAIN but has paid off for me in the past. I use a halogen headlight bulb...and when I have a wire that I feel is in question on being good. I separate the wire so it is open on both ends and then I attach the wire from the headlight bulb to one end of the wire and than apply power to the other end. DEPENDING on the gauge of the wire being tested...if the headlight lights up brightly...then I know the integrity of the strands of the wire are GOOD and can carry the amp load. IF the light does not light up...then I have to think that several of the copper strands in the wire are broken and thus can not carry the amp load. NOW...this depends on the circuit...but it ash saved me much time in the past when all the ohm testing, continuity testing and checking voltage prove to be good...but fail under a load..

DUB

 

Great idea with the halogen headlight bulb. I appreciate all the help and advice! I'll give them a look

 

On a side note. Does anyone know where to buy the original radiator hose clamps? Like this:





I like these better than the worm gear clamps, as they ensure proper tension and they don't need re-tightening.

 

google....'radiator hose constant tension clamp'

dub

 

Thanks brother.


Installed the Petris Opti today. All is well, car started up first turn of the key no codes at all. Still want to get under the car and triple check the grounds at the bellhousing.